Hello
I am normally on the super duty side but I have a 2002 ranger 3.0 auto EX cab if that matters with this issue. My cruse control will only come on rarely but when i does it works fine. Most of the time when I hit the ON button the indicator only blinks like a "relay" of some sort is not latching up. Don't know if this is an all solid state system or if there are electro mechanical relays involved as well. When it does work and I hit the brakes it will drop out completely rather than just disconnect from the controller and need to hit the ON button again, usually with no results.
Any ideas on funky relays or modules?
Thanks
Mike

 

Try the Speed Control Self-Test and see what comes up:

Self-Test Diagnostics

WARNING: This test is a key on engine off (KOEO) test that is only conducted in park with emergency brake fully engaged.

Enter self-test diagnostics by depressing the speed control OFF switch while turning the ignition key on, making sure the engine does not start and is not running. The speed control indicator lamp on the instrument panel will flash once to indicate that the speed control module entered the diagnostic mode. Five additional flashes at this point indicate a defective speed control servo. Release the OFF switch.

NOTE: If the ON switch is not pressed within five seconds after entering diagnostic mode, the module times out and the procedure must be started over.

Press the remaining switches in this sequence: ON, RSM (resume), CST (coast) and SET/ACCEL. The speed control indicator lamp will flash as each switch is pressed. Press each switch in the sequence immediately after the light goes out for the previous switch.

NOTE: There will be a slight delay when the last button is pressed and the lamp flashes.

A lamp flash with the last button (SET/ACCEL) indicates that the STATIC test passed. If the lamp does not flash with the last button and there are no additional flashes of the lamp, the switch is defective. If the lamp does not flash with the last button, and the additional flashes occur, follow the list below for trouble codes:

-2 flashes: Brake pedal position (BPP) switch is defective, circuit is defective, or brake pedal is applied; clutch pedal position (CPP) switch is defective, circuit is defective, or clutch pedal is applied.
-3 flashes: Brake deactivation switch is open or circuit is defective.
-4 flashes: Vehicle speed signal is out of range or circuit is defective.

0.25 seconds after the static test has passed, the speed control servo will carry out a dynamic test automatically by actuating the throttle lever from 1 to 10 mm (.04 to .39 inch) of travel from the idle position. During the dynamic throttle pull, observe throttle movement to witness any binding or sticking of the speed control cable, verify the correct connection of the speed control cable to the throttle lever, and make sure the throttle returns back to the idle position. If incorrect connection or binding or sticking of the speed control is observed, go to the Symptom Chart. If no dynamic pull occurs at the throttle body go to Pinpoint Test F.
Return the ignition switch to the OFF position and proceed to the Symptom Chart.

 

Check the pressure switch on the master cylinder....

 

Thanks so much for the replies.
Rockledge, this is impressive. Now I need to hook up my printer so that I can follow all of this.
Thanks again to you both.
MIke

 

Well, I did the self-test and only got to the flash after the ON button, nothing after that.
Does this indicate that the switch on steering wheel is bad or some other switch. When the cruise control IS working those switches respond as advertised

 

Keep in mind that the test sequence must be performed very quickly. You have to press the RSM, CST and SET/ACCEL buttons almost instantaneously when you see the flash confirming the previous button. It's kinda tricky at first. Try pushing the RSM button while you are getting the flash for the ON button...and so on.

If it's not a testing hiccup, than I suppose the lack of response from the RSM/CST/SETACCEL pod of switches could indicate a wiring problem.

The switches themselves would appear to be OK, since they all function normally when the CC system is engaged.

 

I'll try the RSM with the on button blink and see, but as you said it's pretty quick. I messed around with it while driving home this evening and the setting switches respond after the ON button is pressed but only blink. Isn't the CRUISE light supposed to come on / stay on with the ON button? As it is now no indication that you are in CRUISE until I hit SET, if it works, then when brake is applied it shuts off completely, usually for good. I will compare with my '01 250 SD, it looks like the same arrangement wise on the wheel but no idea as to actual function.

 

On my '98, the CC dash light doesn't come on until the SET/ACC button is pushed and the CC is engaged.

Did you check the brake pressure switch (a/k/a "brake deactivation switch") on the master cylinder, per projectSHO89's recommendation? That switch should only be open when a there is a good push on the brake pedal.

 

That was going to be my next check.
Thanks