Hello to all, I have a recently purchased 2000 Excursion, v10 4x4 and am having trouble with my cruise control. Nothing happens when selecting the ON/OFF buttons although the little green light on the dash would at least flash when ON button was pressed but not anymore.

I am wondering if anyone has a schematic for the cruise control so I can check basic voltages leading to the control module. The mod has been completed to the brakes switch I would like to check voltages that are coming from the steering wheel clocksprings to the module.

Many thanks for any help.

 

See if this link works.
AutoZone.com | Membership Benefits

If it doesn't, go to autozone.com, plug in your vehicle, and then click on repair guides, then click on wiring diagrams, and then scroll down to speed control. If you are not a member, you will have to register-it's seems harmless.

 

Run the self test:

Self-Test Diagnostics — Excursion, Super Duty

WARNING: This test is a key on engine off (KOEO) test only that is conducted in park only with emergency brake fully engaged.

Enter Self-Test Diagnostics by depressing the speed control OFF switch while turning the ignition key ON, making sure the engine does not start and is not running. The speed control indicator on the instrument panel will flash once to indicate that speed control module entered the diagnostic mode. FIVE ADDITIONAL FLASHES AT THIS POINT INDICATE A DEFECTIVE SPEED CONTROL SERVO. Release the OFF switch.
Press the remaining switches in this sequence: ON, RESUME, COAST and SET/ACCEL.
IF THE "ON" SWITCH IS NOT DEPRESSED WITHIN FIVE SECONDS AFTER ENTERING THE DIAGNOSTICS MODE, THE MODULE TIMES OUT AND THE PROCEDURE MUST BE STARTED OVER.
The speed control indicator lamp will flash as each switch is depressed. Press each switch in the sequence immediately after the indicator light goes out for the previous switch.
A lamp flash with the last button (SET/ACCEL) indicates that the STATIC test passed. If the lamp does not flash with the last button and there are no additional flashes of the lamp, the switch is defective.
If the lamp does not flash with the last button, and additional flashes occur, follow the chart below for trouble codes:
2 Flashes - BPP defective, circuit is defective, brake applied, CPP switch or jumper (if equipped).
3 Flashes - Deactivator switch is open or circuit defective.
4 Flashes - Vehicle speed signal is out of range or circuit is defective.
Immediately after the STATIC test, the speed control servo does a DYNAMIC test by automatically actuating the throttle lever from 8 mm (0.315 in) to 12 mm (0.472 in) of travel from the idle position. During the DYNAMIC throttle pull, observe throttle movement to witness any binding or sticking of the speed control cable and correct connection of speed control cable to throttle lever. Make sure the THROTTLE RETURNS BACK TO IDLE POSITION.
Return ignition switch to the OFF position and proceed to the Symptom Chart.

Report your results.

 

Thank you and here are the results. Holding down the OFF and turning the Ign ON, the lamp flashes once. Then pressing the ON, lamp flashes. Pressing the RES nothing, no lamp flash. Tried this few times with same result. Your comments are welcome. Thanks...

 

Resume button bad? Or something wrong with the clockspring.

 

Thanks Franklin2 and also great info regards AutoZone wiring diagrams. Looks like a clockspring replacement is going to be necessary. Will let you know on tear down what I find.

 

Replaced the steering wheel with switches and clockspring assy. I hate to admit but I still have same problem. Doing the diagnostics the cruise light flashed once with switch on sequence then pressing the ON button flashed once then pressing RESUME = nothing. Checked with the other buttons and no flashes. Any suggestions please. Thanks...

 

In normal operation the green light in the dash only comes on when the cruise is set. It does not come on when you hit the on button. The first thing I would look at is the deactivation switch on the master cylinder. It may be leaking or just inoperative. If its not leaking you can put a jumper the two wires in the connector and road test to see if it works now. If it does then you need to replace the deactivation switch. Also make sure your brake lights are working and not sticking on.

I would give the details for the switch test but you already replaced it and the clock spring. Make sure your horn works too.

 

Hey thanks Homer, I am using the self diagnostic test that was posted above and when holding the OFF button and switching the key to ON you can sequence the buttons for a quick test.

I took your advice and shorted the plug that goes into the switch on the master cylinder and now "all" my buttons on the steering wheel operate as the self test describes.

When hitting the last test button "SET" I get the blink then I get two blinks after. The trouble codes "2 flashes" mentions the BPP defective, circuit is defective, brake applied, CPP switch or jumper (if equipped).

I'm not quite sure what to check here. If someone could tell me what a BPP and a CPP is I would appreciate it.

Many thanks,

 

BPP is brake pressure switch and cpp would be clutch pedal switch for manual transmission. The brake applied would translate to the circuit should be open brake is applied to the BPP. You have it jumpered so it cant open. Did you road test it with the jumper in place as I suggested?

 

Just arrived back from road test with jumper in and no response from the ON button at road speeds of over 40 mph.

 

I guess its time to take it to the dealer and let them see with eyes what is going on. I take it you checked all fuses. You have already eliminated most of the common issues, switch, clockspring, deactivation switch, brake light switch..

 

Thanks, I'm away from home till after the holidays. At home I have the full manuals so I'm going to investigate what pins on the computer that receive the voltages needed to arm the cruise control. Will let you know what I find.
As far as dealers are concerned, I'll drive it without CC. Thanks.

 

Cruise control operational, finally. There is always 12v on the switch at the front of the master cylinder even with key off, this switch is normally closed. Reading my service manual found this voltage is always at pin 9 on the cruise control computer. As Homer suggested I jumpered the connector to the switch with no success and then found there was no 12v at the connector. I ended up finding the hot wire to the switch by the connector cracked and had been difficult to see. Cut the plug at this point and twisted the wires together and the CC worked perfectly. Went to a wreckers yard and found a plug in great shape and attached it.

The recall covered this switch with additional wiring with fuse. In prior cases the switch leaked brake fluid and with it being hot all the time is best to check from time to time that the area at the front of master cylinder is dry.

I have the manual and if anyone needs a had with there's will be glad to help. P.S. Have perfectly good working clockspring, steering wheel buttons and computer for sale cheap.

 

Hi all,
I have a 2000 F350 7.3 PSD. The CC hasn't worked since I bought the truck a couple years ago. I was told by the previous owner that the truck had the CC recall fix done by a dealer. I tried the diagnosis outlined earlier in this thread and I didn't see the "speed control indicator on the instrument panel" (I'm guessing this is the yellow light that reads "CRUISE CONTROL") flash at all after several tries of turning the ignition to on while holding down the OFF control button on the steering wheel.

Here's what I'm wondering, if anyone has any input it would be greatly appreciated:
Is this test supposed to work with my year and model?

If yes then is there any particular significance of the no-results I'm getting?

I tried autozone.com and I can't find any detailed diagrams even after becomming a member, any other resources for detailed info as to wiring and component location?

Any thoughts in general on what I should do to diagnose?

Thanks a lot!