I am usually in the forum just above this one but I got a buddy...LOL

Seriously, he has a 2000 F250 but it has the Triton V* gasser. (I know this is diesel but you guys are like my cousins since all I know is diesels).
His cruise will work sometimes and some times it will shut off by itself and sometimes it won't work at all. Any common problems?

He is wanting to take it to the Stealership this morning but I am trying to save him the grief he will undoubtedly face.

 

WARNING: THIS SELF TEST IS ONLY FOR GAS ENGINES. DIESELS REQUIRE A SCANNER TO TEST CRUISE CONTROL (but us diesel guys have to stick together)

Self-Test Diagnostics
WARNING: This test is a key on engine off (KOEO) test only that is conducted in PARK only with the emergency brake fully engaged.
1. Enter the Self-Test Diagnostics by depressing the speed control OFF switch while turning the ignition key ON, making sure the engine does not start and is not running. The speed control indicator on the instrument panel will flash once to indicate that speed control module entered the diagnostic mode. Five additional flashes at this point indicate a defective speed control servo. Release the OFF switch.

2. Press the remaining switches in this sequence: ON, RESUME, COAST and SET/ACCEL.
If the "ON" switch is not depressed within five seconds after entering the diagnostic mode, the module times out and the procedure must be started over.
The speed control indicator lamp will flash as each switch is depressed. Press each switch in the sequence immediately after the indicator light goes out for the previous switch.

3. NOTE: There will be a slight delay when the last button is pressed and the lamp flashes.
A lamp flash with the last button (SET/ACCEL) indicates that the STATIC test passed. If the lamp does not flash with the last button and there are no additional flashes of the lamp, the switch is defective.
If the lamp does not flash with the last button, and additional flashes occur, follow the chart below for trouble codes:

Flashes Source
2 Flashes BPP defective, circuit is defective, brake applied, CPP switch or jumper (if equipped) is defective
3 Flashes Deactivator switch is open or circuit defective
4 Flashes Vehicle speed signal is out of range or circuit is defective

4. Immediately after the STATIC test, the speed control servo does a DYNAMIC test by automatically actuating the throttle lever from 8 mm (0.315 in) to 12 mm (0.472 in) of travel from the idle position. During the DYNAMIC throttle pull, observe throttle movement to witness any binding or sticking of the speed control cable and correct connection of speed control cable to throttle lever. Make sure the throttle returns back to the idle position.
5. Return the ignition switch to the OFF position and proceed to the Symptom Chart.

Symptom Chart
Symptom Chart
Condition Possible Sources Action
• The speed control is inoperative — no flash codes • Speed control cable not attached to throttle.
• Central junction box (CJB) fuse(s):
 34 (10A).
 27 (15A) (gasoline only).
• Circuitry.
• Brake pedal position (BPP) switch.
• Deactivator switch.
• Speed control switch.
• Anti-lock brake control module.
• Powertrain control module (PCM).
• Speed control servo. • Go To Pinpoint Test A .

• The set speed fluctuates • Speed control servo.
• Anti-lock brake control module.
• PCM.
• Circuitry.
• Loose fit or binding between speed control cable and throttle body. • Go To Pinpoint Test B .

• Engine controls. • REFER to Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) manual. REPAIR engine as necessary.
• The speed control does not disengage when the brakes are applied • CJB fuse fuse 34 (10A).
• Circuitry.
• BPP switch.
• Deactivator switch.
• Speed control servo.
• Binding speed control cable.
• CPP switch or jumper. • Go To Pinpoint Test C .

• The speed control does not disengage when the clutch is applied (Super Duty only) • Circuitry.
• CPP switch.
• Speed control servo. • Go To Pinpoint Test D .

• The speed control switch is inoperative • Speed control switch.
• Speed control servo. • Go To Pinpoint Test E .

• Flash with last switch pressed and dynamic pull occurs at throttle. • — • Test passed.
• Flash with last switch pressed, but no dynamic pull occurs at throttle and speed control inoperative. • Speed control cable.
• Speed control servo. • Go To Pinpoint Test F .

• Flash code 2 — brake pedal position switch circuit failure. • Circuitry.
• BPP switch.
• CPP switch or jumper (Super Duty only).
• Speed control servo. • Go To Pinpoint Test G .

• Flash code 3 — deactivator switch circuit failure. • CJB fuse 34 (10A).
• Circuitry.
• Deactivator switch.
• Speed control servo. • Go To Pinpoint Test H .

• Flash with last switch pressed, dynamic pull occurs at throttle and speed control inoperative. • Circuitry.
• Anti-lock brake control module.
• PCM.
• Speed control servo. • Go To Pinpoint Test I .

• The speed control indicator lamp is always on. • Circuitry.
• Bulb.
• Instrument cluster.
• Speed control servo. • Go To Pinpoint Test J .

• Flash code 4 — speed signal circuit failure. • Circuitry.
• Speed control servo.
• Anti-lock brake control module. • Go To Pinpoint Test I .

 

Neal, cuzz. What do you think, did Chris give you enough information to get started? You are welcome here anytime.

I think Reps are in order here. Thanks for helping old CUZZ out.

 

I agree on the reps. As a matter of fact they are already sent.
Thank you so much. I got to work this morning and he asked me to follow him to the dealer to drop it off. He told me what it was doing and I mentioned that there may be a recall on the CC cancel switch(or whatever it is called), and he said the dealer he spoke with said it was for 150 and 350 but not 250. Sounds like hogwash to me. I asked him if I could have some time with it and check with "my buddies online", he said OK. I posted here then went to work after the speedy reply--THANX--. So I first started with all fuses, Check. Then did the Static test, Check-passed. Then I went to that sensor/switch on the front of the master cylinder. It was wet and dirty on the outside. I pulled it off and it was wet with clean fluid on the inside. After I got it on my fingers you could tell it was brake fluid, you know how it feels between your fingers. So here I am out in the parking lot in the middle of town in my dress clothes and new at that. Dress shoes, black pants and nice coat...stylin. Working under the hood of his truck and trying not to get too dirty past my wrists. Cleaning the contacts of the plug and the sensor with toilet paper to dry them off, that's all I had here, needed contact cleaner but TP works in a pinch. Well long story short we hopped in it and got on the interstate and it works like a champ. We drove to the parts store of his choice, Advance, and ordered the part for $30 and some change. It will take a week from the factory but it should hold out till next week for him.

All in all a cheap and easy fix for him and I thank you as well as him for the guidance on this. I will swap the sensor for him next week for maybe a beer??

One last question; I assume I will need to bleed the master cylinder? Can I do it at the sensor location? I thought I would do that first then go to the bleed valves on the MC if there are any. If not crack open the lines and bleed there. Sound like a plan to you guys?

 

Miller Cuzz thanks for the welcome. I like the PAA membership, good one. I am getting stage II's for my truck in a week or so. I am also presently installing air on the rig to run impacts, etc also. I will post pics when the mod is done. I think I am addicted also PMS got me awhile back.

 

Neal, your better off bleeding the entire system. Changing the sensor is bound to let some air in there. How old is his brake fluid? Might as well help him flush the old fluid out while your playing with this and up your price to a full 6 pack.

 

No, no need to drain the master cylinder, nothing will come out when the take the sensor off. I did this a few weeks ago. You will get a new sensor and a small wireing harness to adapt the old wire to the new sensor. I paid 20.00 from the dealer for mine.

 

Gotcha. I will do as I said to get most of the air out at the MC but will follow with a full bleed.

Another question; Can I have him depress the pedal with moderate pressure while I remove the old sensor (Iknow it will make a mess) and when the pedal hits the floor have him hold it down hard till I get the new one in. Will that keep any air out by having the piston closer to the hole I create?

 

So miller you say NO fluid comes out? That would be really nice.

 

You are welcome. Do you have this to help with your injectors?
TikiWiki : 94 through 97 Injector R&R. Good luck with this, and yes let us know how it goes.

 

I have seen that but forgot where. Thanx Reps to you too for being helpful on a different subject. I will save it this time thanx again.

 

Thats right, it is a presure sensor. I don't think you could get enough through the hole to do any good, by pressing the pedal. The bowl don't see much psi. I think it would blow the cap off. lol

 

Thanx. I will just hafta see how it goes and expect the worst.

 

5 min job Neal.

You will have no problems. The reason I changed mine was because it was leaking. I tried for days to find the leak, finally I touched the connection and it was full of brake fluid. How could fluid come out of a connection, I changed it and all was and is good.

 

That is the same problem he has. Without everyones help I don't think I could wake up in the morning.