Cruise Control Conundrum
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Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
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From: Puget Sound
Cruise Control Conundrum
Now that I have Stinky closer to 100% than ever before, I will be addressing annoyances... like the automatic dome light not working and the stupid Door Ajar light working too much. Before I get to that, I have a new problem:
I press the "ON" button for Cruise Control, and the system shows no symptoms of coming on. I did a search and I found this:
*cruise control self test*
Enter self-test diagnostics by depressing the speed control OFF switch while turning the ignition key ON, making sure the engine does not start and is not running. The speed control indicator on the instrument panel
will flash once to indicate that speed control module entered the diagnostic mode. Five additional flashes at this point indicate a defective speed control servo. Release the OFF switch.
Press the remaining switches in this sequence: ON, RESUME, COAST and SET/ACCEL.
If the ON switch is not depressed within five seconds after entering the diagnostics mode, the module times out and the procedure must be started over.
The speed control indicator lamp will flash as each switch is depressed. Press each switch in the sequence immediately after the indicator light goes out for the previous switch.
NOTE: There will be a slight delay when the last button is pressed and the lamp flashes.
A lamp flash with the last button (SET/ACCEL) indicates that the static test passed. If the lamp does not flash with the last button and there are no additional flashes of the lamp, the switch is defective.
If the lamp does not flash with the last button, and additional flashes occur, follow the chart below for trouble codes:
2 flashes - BPP defective, circuit is defective, brake applied, CPP switch or jumper (if equipped).
3 flashes - deactivator switch is open or circuit defective.
4 flashes - vehicle speed signal is out of range or circuit is defective
Immediately (.25 second delay) after the static test, the speed control servo does a dynamic test by automatically actuating the throttle lever from 8 mm (0.315 in) to 12 mm (0.472 in) of travel from the idle position. During the dynamic throttle pull, observe throttle movement to witness any binding or sticking of the speed control cable and correct connection of speed control cable to throttle lever. Make sure the throttle returns to the idle position.
I'm betting it's something simple, like my parking brake switch is probably not being pressed by the pedal... but I thought I'd share my process as I go through this (when I find the time).
I press the "ON" button for Cruise Control, and the system shows no symptoms of coming on. I did a search and I found this:
*cruise control self test*
Enter self-test diagnostics by depressing the speed control OFF switch while turning the ignition key ON, making sure the engine does not start and is not running. The speed control indicator on the instrument panel
will flash once to indicate that speed control module entered the diagnostic mode. Five additional flashes at this point indicate a defective speed control servo. Release the OFF switch.
Press the remaining switches in this sequence: ON, RESUME, COAST and SET/ACCEL.
If the ON switch is not depressed within five seconds after entering the diagnostics mode, the module times out and the procedure must be started over.
The speed control indicator lamp will flash as each switch is depressed. Press each switch in the sequence immediately after the indicator light goes out for the previous switch.
NOTE: There will be a slight delay when the last button is pressed and the lamp flashes.
A lamp flash with the last button (SET/ACCEL) indicates that the static test passed. If the lamp does not flash with the last button and there are no additional flashes of the lamp, the switch is defective.
If the lamp does not flash with the last button, and additional flashes occur, follow the chart below for trouble codes:
2 flashes - BPP defective, circuit is defective, brake applied, CPP switch or jumper (if equipped).
3 flashes - deactivator switch is open or circuit defective.
4 flashes - vehicle speed signal is out of range or circuit is defective
Immediately (.25 second delay) after the static test, the speed control servo does a dynamic test by automatically actuating the throttle lever from 8 mm (0.315 in) to 12 mm (0.472 in) of travel from the idle position. During the dynamic throttle pull, observe throttle movement to witness any binding or sticking of the speed control cable and correct connection of speed control cable to throttle lever. Make sure the throttle returns to the idle position.
I'm betting it's something simple, like my parking brake switch is probably not being pressed by the pedal... but I thought I'd share my process as I go through this (when I find the time).
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 768
Likes: 1
From: Live VT, Work MA
This is the behavior of mine as well. Push "ON" and nothing new happens until I set it, then the little indicator lights up......
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,327
Likes: 585
From: Amarillo, TEXAS!
Now that I have Stinky closer to 100% than ever before, I will be addressing annoyances... like the automatic dome light not working and the stupid Door Ajar light working too much. Before I get to that, I have a new problem:
I press the "ON" button for Cruise Control, and the system shows no symptoms of coming on. I did a search and I found this:
*cruise control self test*
Enter self-test diagnostics by depressing the speed control OFF switch while turning the ignition key ON, making sure the engine does not start and is not running. The speed control indicator on the instrument panel
will flash once to indicate that speed control module entered the diagnostic mode. Five additional flashes at this point indicate a defective speed control servo. Release the OFF switch.
Press the remaining switches in this sequence: ON, RESUME, COAST and SET/ACCEL.
If the ON switch is not depressed within five seconds after entering the diagnostics mode, the module times out and the procedure must be started over.
The speed control indicator lamp will flash as each switch is depressed. Press each switch in the sequence immediately after the indicator light goes out for the previous switch.
NOTE: There will be a slight delay when the last button is pressed and the lamp flashes.
A lamp flash with the last button (SET/ACCEL) indicates that the static test passed. If the lamp does not flash with the last button and there are no additional flashes of the lamp, the switch is defective.
If the lamp does not flash with the last button, and additional flashes occur, follow the chart below for trouble codes:
2 flashes - BPP defective, circuit is defective, brake applied, CPP switch or jumper (if equipped).
3 flashes - deactivator switch is open or circuit defective.
4 flashes - vehicle speed signal is out of range or circuit is defective
Immediately (.25 second delay) after the static test, the speed control servo does a dynamic test by automatically actuating the throttle lever from 8 mm (0.315 in) to 12 mm (0.472 in) of travel from the idle position. During the dynamic throttle pull, observe throttle movement to witness any binding or sticking of the speed control cable and correct connection of speed control cable to throttle lever. Make sure the throttle returns to the idle position.
I'm betting it's something simple, like my parking brake switch is probably not being pressed by the pedal... but I thought I'd share my process as I go through this (when I find the time).
I press the "ON" button for Cruise Control, and the system shows no symptoms of coming on. I did a search and I found this:
*cruise control self test*
Enter self-test diagnostics by depressing the speed control OFF switch while turning the ignition key ON, making sure the engine does not start and is not running. The speed control indicator on the instrument panel
will flash once to indicate that speed control module entered the diagnostic mode. Five additional flashes at this point indicate a defective speed control servo. Release the OFF switch.
Press the remaining switches in this sequence: ON, RESUME, COAST and SET/ACCEL.
If the ON switch is not depressed within five seconds after entering the diagnostics mode, the module times out and the procedure must be started over.
The speed control indicator lamp will flash as each switch is depressed. Press each switch in the sequence immediately after the indicator light goes out for the previous switch.
NOTE: There will be a slight delay when the last button is pressed and the lamp flashes.
A lamp flash with the last button (SET/ACCEL) indicates that the static test passed. If the lamp does not flash with the last button and there are no additional flashes of the lamp, the switch is defective.
If the lamp does not flash with the last button, and additional flashes occur, follow the chart below for trouble codes:
2 flashes - BPP defective, circuit is defective, brake applied, CPP switch or jumper (if equipped).
3 flashes - deactivator switch is open or circuit defective.
4 flashes - vehicle speed signal is out of range or circuit is defective
Immediately (.25 second delay) after the static test, the speed control servo does a dynamic test by automatically actuating the throttle lever from 8 mm (0.315 in) to 12 mm (0.472 in) of travel from the idle position. During the dynamic throttle pull, observe throttle movement to witness any binding or sticking of the speed control cable and correct connection of speed control cable to throttle lever. Make sure the throttle returns to the idle position.
I'm betting it's something simple, like my parking brake switch is probably not being pressed by the pedal... but I thought I'd share my process as I go through this (when I find the time).
Thread Starter
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Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
That doesn't look like the right procedure for an SD. The SDs don't have a speed control servo, and the BPP switch should be called a BOO switch. There should also be an additional service brake related switch listed, the BPA switch on the master cylinder. I just got a recall notice last week regarding the BPA switch and the possibility of it leaking and causing a fire, too.
I thought I remembered something about this long ago, but I can't always retain the details that haven't applied to me before now.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 7,760
Likes: 27
From: Hampton, Maryland.
scanning down to the middle to get pertinent information, it states-
Key information
-Your vehicle contains a potential underhood fire risk
-Your safety is important to us. Schedule an appointment to have the service procedure completed.
-This procedure will be performed free of charge
-Si necesita ayuda o tiene alguna pregunta, por favor...blah blah blah spanish....
Safety Recall 09S09- Speed Control Deactivation Switch Fire
What is the issue?
Ford cannot be confident that after many years in service, the speed control deactivation switch installed in your vehicle will not leak, posing the risk of an underhood fire. Until this repair is performed, a fire could occur at any time. A fire can occur even if the key is not in the ignition, and can occur even if the speed control system is never used. (Damn, there goes my reason for not allowing the Ford dealer to touch my truck...)Until your vehicle is repaired, please park your vehicle away from structures to prevent a potential underhood fire from spreading. (oh Lord, this is serious!!!)
What are we asking you to do?
Please contact your dealer to schedule an appointment to have this important service procedure complete. Balh blah blah english....
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Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 2,298
Likes: 94
From: Delta, CO
I always thought the CC worked the way described, push on button nothing happens until set button activated. The same thing happens on our 2004 Lincoln TC except a message lights up saying CC Ready when On button is pressed & then it's activated when Set button is pressed.
That recall that HKusp posted, is that not the same one from a few years ago ?
BTW they changed my CPS when it went in for the recall, kinda p!ssed me off that they took a good black CPS & put one of the suspect gray ones in
That recall that HKusp posted, is that not the same one from a few years ago ?
BTW they changed my CPS when it went in for the recall, kinda p!ssed me off that they took a good black CPS & put one of the suspect gray ones in
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 7,760
Likes: 27
From: Hampton, Maryland.
That is why I haven't had them do my CPS. To be honest, until Pika mentioned this recall, I had not even looked at that letter that came last week. The only reason I opened it was to see if it was about the CC or still them bugging me about the CPS.
Thread Starter
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Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
The gray one is more reliable, but the black one gives a better idle and low PERDELs. In that situation... I would see if I can get the black one back, then put the gray one in the glove box.
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,910
Likes: 2
From: Hat Creek Ca
My '02 Ranger had that recall notice about two years ago. Don't know if it is the same system or not but the configuration on the wheel is exactly the same as my SD. The recall did nothing for my problem though, most of the time the "cruise" light just blinks with the ON button and no CC. If it lights up and stays on all is good for a little while.
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 642
Likes: 0
From: Onlsow, NC
I had that recall done on my truck back in 2011 that addressed this issue. If there was a leak, they replaced the switch. If there wasn't a leak, they put in a section of wiring harness that added a fuse I think? Then about 6 months or so ago my cruise quite working out of no where. I found a CC system test and tried it and the truck wouldn't even initiate the test. After that i started checked the sensor and found the plug held together with duct tape. Went to Ford, got a new harness, all fixed.
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 642
Likes: 0
From: Onlsow, NC
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...working-3.html
I think this is the same thread that i used to fix my problem. There's also a picture of the harness I mentioned.
I think this is the same thread that i used to fix my problem. There's also a picture of the harness I mentioned.