Thanks.

Here are some pic's from our efforts today. I'll let Bruno give the explanations for them. (Bruno: Don't forget the black paint in the 4th picture.)

 

Bill,
The hose application for the E-350 is Powercraft 71202.
But the bend isn't even close to fitting the box, and the line off the pump makes a U-turn and heads straight forward.

The C2 pump has a swiveling nut and the hose end is like a barrel with an O-ring in a central groove.
The Saginaw pump has a flanged line with an O-ring ahead of it.

Ideally, the line would turn 90* out of the pump and then turn up.
The box has the common 5/16 inverted flare and could go straight up or have the 'squiggle' in the end.
The Hydraulic shop is closed tomorrow.

 

When Kris and I got to Podunk we started in with the filing of the JB Weld. Started with a coarse file then worked down to some more fine cutting files. Then dressed it with a jitterbug sander using 600 grit.

Once we got close to the surface we used dykem bluing to so that we could tell when we were cutting into the metal. Once the bluing was gone we stopped and took the sander to it.

After the surfacing was done we laid the gasket in place and hit it with a shot coat of paint to see where the sealing surface actually was. The paint revealed that there were a just a couple of places that were questionable about coverage of the sealing surface. Since they were so small I just used some rtv to finish the surface out and let it dry before the install.

Once dry I coated the intake runners with anaerobic sealer. The water passages got coated with rtv and of course we trashed the cork gaskets that go on the block surface and used rtv there also. I coated the head and intake both with sealant before dropping the gasket in. I was sure to pay close attention to corners where it might be easy to forget to do a good job which would cause a leak.

We torqued it down to 32ftlbs this time and went in 5 ftlb increments. Everything bottomed up so we feel confident it is sealed this time. I chose to let the sealant sit for 24 hrs before a start up even though she is all back together except for a little bit of coolant that wont go back in yet.

Hopefully tomorrow I will be reporting good news.

 

I'm going to try buying a new 71202 at Advance for $18 today and bending it to fit.
I have nothing to lose.

 

I think I died a little when I saw all of that silicone lol.

 

Jim, the outlet fitting on a Saginaw pump can be changed. At worst case you can find one in a junkyard. GM used that pump for years, Chrysler and Ford all used them and probably AMC. I'm sure that you can find one with a 3/8" inverted flare. If not, I will look and see if I have anything here on a POS I'm scrapping.

 

Bruno, what's the status of leaky, inquiring minds want to know.

 

So far it is dry.

 

OK, I have more time to post. The heads are tight now and I no reason to believe the intake is leaking anything. The test drive was better this time than last time. There still seems to be some pre ignition rattles when I flog it down low. There also seems to be some type of shudder that feels to me like it is bad plug wires that have melted by the maniflold. I have stuff on the way from Summit and Jegs to hopefully mend that issue. The Bronco still wants to run whenever I shut it off though. I am not sure what exactly the issue is with that. Th carb isn't perfect by any means , but GCCary and I have plans to mess with that in a few months.

The leaky head issue took longer than I wanted it to so I took more of Gary's time than I should have . I did get to help some with the rotisserie as well as give my 0.02 on the design issues. I cant tell Gary how much I appreciated helping get those issues smoothed over so I can get onto other stuff that isn't as major. Janey was also very helpful with lunch and drinks as well as fresh homemade cinnamon rolls. So many thanks to her also! Again Gary thank you so much for your help and hospitality!

I think I will head up tomorrow and throw the Bronco on my trailer to pull it home. It will run and drive , but this way I can do it all myself and I don't have to employ anyone to help out. Jason would do it . However, he does stuff for me all the time rather I like it or not. That's why I always try to help him whatever he has going, even a really cruddy head job on a cruddy hard to work on F150.

 

You are welcome. And, she's a keeper, huh?! We'll see you tomorrow and we'll "throw the Bronco on the trailer". (Had to reinforce that point just to needle the moderate guy.)

 

Bruno, it may just be loaded up from water getting in the cylinders. Running on (dieseling) is caused by carbon build up in the cylinders. Take it on a good (10 miles or so) highway run, don't dog it just run it down the road and get it good and hot. We used to have to do it all the time with big block MOPARs after they got out of tune.

 

And, we don't really know that the new plugs are the right heat range, do we? Hot plugs can do that.

 

I thought he had zero miles on newly refurbed heads?
How bad could they be?

I'm not sure about the compression but maybe you should back off the timing a little Bruno.

 

We did I think Jim. The factory spec said 10° BTDC and we are at 6° BTDC.

Everything was pretty clean and new looking. I am running 91 octane with 9.4:1 compression. So I don't know what the issue is. My carb gasket was pretty worn and I haven't done a complete vacuum leak check yet , but it ran 1000% better today than the last time I drove it.

It will just take minute to get everything dialed in. I still have a rough idle too, but I want to re do the plug wires before I get carried away. Also the carb needs work too. Gary and I were in the middle of trying to turn a 1406 into a 1405 when the head gasket blew. Now I have a 1405 and a strip kit for it. So here around mid summer I bet we can find a day to do it. Gary will probably be messing with the Mopar by then too.

 

I hope they polished all the sharp edges in the combustion chambers. That will give you all kinds of detonation.