Lucitos machine shop gets $40 per head to magnaflux and that includes cleaning them as well as pulling the valves. I think I will do it just to be sure. $80 is cheap for peace of mind.

 

Agreed. I'll get the bolts cleaned, inspected, and measured today. If you get measurements from the heads on bolt length, or thickness at the bolt holes, we'll know if that's the problem.

 

The preliminary results are in - it isn't likely that we have a problem with the head bolts being too long. The attached PDF shows the results of my measurements on a Ford D80E head, the ARP head bolts & washers, and Bruno's block. The result is that the minimum "clamp" for the outside bolts is .163" and for the inside bolts it is .248". And both of those #'s are w/o the head gasket. So, with a .039" gasket the outside bolts have over .200" to spare and the inside ones have even more.

So unless Bruno's heads are not as they were described to him, meaning that they take stock head bolts, then this isn't the problem. But, he's taken them in for magnafluxing as well as checking for flatness so we won't know for a bit. Hopefully the machinist will also measure the bolt areas as well and we should know by Wednesday.

And, for your viewing pleasure I've attached four pictures. The first two show the blackest spark plugs I've ever seen. And, as predicted, it is hard to get a good picture of them as the black, fluffy coating soaks up the light. If you get enough light to see the black the rest is washed out. Anyway, several thoughts and observations. First, one of you in particular (the one older than me) is going to complain about the brand of plug. Second, note the goo all the way around the seat on some of them. Third, I brought some of them out with my fingers - no wrench needed, which was lucky since the headers made getting a socket on them difficult.

And, that leads me to the last two pictures and my love of headers. The first one is of the neat little shorty headers after we media-blasted them, washed them with brake cleaner, coated them with two coats of Krylon BBQ & Stove black paint, and cured it in the oven at 400 degrees for an hour. Don't they look cute!? Don't fall for their innocent look. They are evil. Note how the top/passenger's side header loops around. On several of the plugs you cannot get an extension on the plug socket to turn it, so you have to use an end wrench. That precludes torquing them properly, and also means they'd better run in/out with your fingers.

Now, in the last picture note the major leakage past the port on the left and the somewhat less leakage on the right two ports. In fact, only the #2 port doesn't show to have been leaking. But, in contrast to the spark plugs, the bolts for the headers were in pretty well, and the headers had been put on by Bruno when the engine was on the stand so he's sure they went on correctly. However, after less than 500 miles........

And, to think we have to put them on!

 

Maybe you should put the plugs in before you bolt up the headers?

How about some Copper-coat or even aluminum spray paint on those gaskets?
Soak them in water so they 'puff up'?
I know it's half assed, but if the flanges aren't thick enough to stay flat, you gotta do what you gotta do...

 

Actually, all but the water soaking was what I was thinking. But, installing the plugs before installing the headers only minimizes the pain this time - there's always the next time.

And, we are planning on Copper-coat for the head gaskets as well as the exhausts. Is there any benefit in using drilled bolts and safety-wiring them on the exhausts?

 

I don't think safety wiring the bolts will do any good if you don't find that they are unscrewing.
Stage 8 makes locking header bolts.
If the flange or gasket is distorting, it doesn't matter if the bolts stay where they are.
You are still losing clamping pressure.

 

I think the headers turned out looking good! I agree something on the exhaust gaskets when re install. I have some of the high heat ultra copper rtv. I was thinking about using it. I used it on the side that wasn't leaking. We didn't use it on the side that was leaking when we changed the gasket thinking the head leak was an exhaust leak.

I ordered one of these up today and it should be here Thursday or Friday:#M-6268-A302 - Timing Chain And Sprocket Set Ford Racing - Amp Performance Auto Parts & Accessories

I have a message in to procomp to try to figure out where the advance curve is set on the dizzy too.

 

Does anybody remember where I posted all the specs for my camshaft?

I may have had it in a thread I started, maybe about recurving or something like that?

I am going to my statistics to look for it.

 

Here is a little permalink action with the cam specs in it:https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post11744794

Here is the thread where I was discussing the recurve on the dizzy idea:https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...stributor.html

 

Oh yeah, Gary I think Jason is coming out with me this weekend to help out. He can help crawl around under the hood instead of taking the chance of wrecking your knee that was just operated on. We shouldn't have any trouble getting this thing back together and out of the way for Rusty or Dad's truck which ever needs the attention next. I think it will go quicker with his help and not be so hard on everybodies health.

 

It'll be good to see Jason again. Glad he's coming. But, let's use the shop crane to put the heads on - nice and slow. And, we'll use studs as guide pins.

Also, I've re-read the other threads on the cam and the ignition. I'll bet we don't have to do anything with the ignition, other than set the initial lead and check the overall advance. To degree the cam we'll have to find TDC with a dial indicator before we put the heads on. Then put the new timing cover on w/o a gasket, slip the balancer on, and check to see that the pointer lines up with 0˚. At that point we can either put the heads back on and then check the cam by using a dial indicator on a pushrod, or check the cam before we put the heads on. The latter may be easier as we'll have the block to put the dial indicator's magnetic base on.

As for the Ultra Copper Maximum Temperature RTV, I've not used it but if it is only half as good as it says it is it should do the trick. However, we won't be able to start the engine the day we put it on as it needs to set up overnight.

 

The last time I used the ultra copper it set up pretty quick initially. I was wondering if I was going to be able to get the headers on fast enough before it set. I agree that the plugs should be put in first before the headers go on like Jim suggested.

Here are the instructions for the permatex ultra copper:http://www.permatex.com/products/pro...t-maker-detail

 

They say it is the right stuff. But, I didn't find the curing time. Did I miss it?

 

Oh, boy.... the mark of a true backyard redneck... RTV... some people think RTV is the cure-all and sealant for everything.... children... and you're talking about putting it on your exhaust manifolds... or headers... whatever... sheesh.... are you putting it on your head gaskets, too?...

*sigh*... bruno, what are we gonna do with you....

 

You got a better suggestion to keep the headers from leaking?