The Leaky Head Thread
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
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From: EXTREME southwest CT
I had thought about the possibility of insufficient crush due to the decked block Gary.
But then I asked myself if Bruno wouldn't have thought about that himself and checked to see how much exposed shank there was without the heads.
But then I asked myself if Bruno wouldn't have thought about that himself and checked to see how much exposed shank there was without the heads.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
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From: Northeast, OK
That's why I asked for the head dimensions. Tomorrow I'm going to inspect the bolts to see if there is any indication that the threads in the block have bottomed on those of the bolts. And, I'll install the bolts and measure the shank. And, when he gets back with the cc's on the heads and pistons I'll calc the CR. I think there's an explanation that we are missing, and I don't want to put it together w/o doing more research.
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Broken Arrow , OK
The combustion chamber is 64 CC, The dish on the piston is 13CC and the bore is 0.040" over the stock 4". The rod is a stock 5.956" length and is not stroked Gary.
I will have to get my calipers at the shop in order to measure the thicknesses of the head, but the specs called for a factory bolt length. I do want to check it though to make sure its right.
I will have to get my calipers at the shop in order to measure the thicknesses of the head, but the specs called for a factory bolt length. I do want to check it though to make sure its right.
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Broken Arrow , OK
Gary I don't know if the heads have ever been shaved either now that I think about it.
Today I cleaned all the gasket surfaces up on the heads really well! Kris my son went with me to blast the headers and re apply the Krylon BBQ grill paint to them. That was successful too. I must not have gotten the storage/shipping coating off of the headers the first go around because they were quite rusty looking when we popped the hood. So hopefully this pass will be more effective.
Gary, keep in mind for the re assembly process that we marked the dizzy before we pulled it. However, we moved the rotating assembly around some after we pulled it.
Today I cleaned all the gasket surfaces up on the heads really well! Kris my son went with me to blast the headers and re apply the Krylon BBQ grill paint to them. That was successful too. I must not have gotten the storage/shipping coating off of the headers the first go around because they were quite rusty looking when we popped the hood. So hopefully this pass will be more effective.
Gary, keep in mind for the re assembly process that we marked the dizzy before we pulled it. However, we moved the rotating assembly around some after we pulled it.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
The combustion chamber is 64 CC, The dish on the piston is 13CC and the bore is 0.040" over the stock 4". The rod is a stock 5.956" length and is not stroked Gary.
I will have to get my calipers at the shop in order to measure the thicknesses of the head, but the specs called for a factory bolt length. I do want to check it though to make sure its right.
I will have to get my calipers at the shop in order to measure the thicknesses of the head, but the specs called for a factory bolt length. I do want to check it though to make sure its right.
However, the thread length on the bolts could easily cause what we are seeing. If all the bolts bottomed but one side of the block or one head has less meat in it we'd see one side badly blown and the other leaking - which is exactly what we are seeing. So, get as close as you can on the heads and I'll put a bolt in the block and measure. And, I'll clean the bolts and check the threads to see if there are any signs of bottoming.
EDIT: Yes, we turned the crank slightly. But, we are close enough to get it started. However, we really do need to get a pointer on there, so if you have a timing cover that has one maybe we should put it on. Or, we might be able to make one, but we would need to dial it in with the heads off and a dial indicator on the block reading the piston.
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Broken Arrow , OK
I do have a cover and indicator. I need to take it up to Inland and blast it then paint it old Ford Blue which I will do tomorrow. I would like to degree the cam if possible while we have the cover off. I don't have one of the fully adjustable timing sets on it, but if a tooth either way will help I would like to do that. Also I need to try to find the amount of factory curve advancement in the dizzy so We can tell if the springs need to be changed.
I need to remember to grab James' spark plug cleaner as well. Those plugs need a good blasting!
I you get a minute Gary post a pic of the plugs
I need to remember to grab James' spark plug cleaner as well. Those plugs need a good blasting!
I you get a minute Gary post a pic of the plugs
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
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From: Northeast, OK
I can't see 393 cubes from a 351 engine bored .040" over unless it is stroked - which it isn't.
On the CR, did you take into account that the pistons are .008" down in the bore?
On the CR, did you take into account that the pistons are .008" down in the bore?
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Northeast, OK
I do have a cover and indicator. I need to take it up to Inland and blast it then paint it old Ford Blue which I will do tomorrow. I would like to degree the cam if possible while we have the cover off. I don't have one of the fully adjustable timing sets on it, but if a tooth either way will help I would like to do that. Also I need to try to find the amount of factory curve advancement in the dizzy so We can tell if the springs need to be changed.
I need to remember to grab James' spark plug cleaner as well. Those plugs need a good blasting! I you get a minute Gary post a pic of the plugs
I need to remember to grab James' spark plug cleaner as well. Those plugs need a good blasting!
I you get a minute Gary post a pic of the plugsFrom what I remember one tooth changes the cam timing WAY too far, so while we can check the cam timing we can't change it w/o an adjustable timing set.
I will take pictures of the plugs, but that reminds me of taking pictures of the black lab we used to have. There was no way to get a good pic as he just soaked up the light. And, those plugs are the blackest plugs I've ever seen and I'm not sure they'll show up in a picture.
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Broken Arrow , OK
The calculator asked for the deck height and I put in 0.008. I may have messed up the CUID figure though. I am not even sure that I did it right. The CR calc gave me a CC number and I assumed that was to be converted to CUI and multiplied by 8 as well as added to the 351?
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Broken Arrow , OK
I figured it at .060, but then I changed it to 4.1 whenever I found the specs for the gaskets I will be using. It made just a little dfference. The jury is still out in the displacement though. I came up with 359 , but I am just not sure what the cc number is for they offer with the compression calculator. When I convert that number to cui it comes out to 5 and some change.