Trailer Lights
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2008
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2008
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Just pulled the 1st printing on the 2005 owners manual...
Fuse #6 for the trailer tow relay
Fuse #38 is for the trailer tow park lamps
Fuse #39 is for the trailer tow backup lamps
Fuse #101 is for the trailer brakes
Fuse #115 is for trailer tow battery charge
edit: here's where I went... https://owner.ford.com/servlet/Conte...5875|137205958
Fuse #6 for the trailer tow relay
Fuse #38 is for the trailer tow park lamps
Fuse #39 is for the trailer tow backup lamps
Fuse #101 is for the trailer brakes
Fuse #115 is for trailer tow battery charge
edit: here's where I went... https://owner.ford.com/servlet/Conte...5875|137205958
The way this reads to me is that it has two functions:
1 powers the trailer lights with stopping...stepping on the brake pedel
2 powers the trailer lights with the head/running lights switch in the cab
...is this true?
Tuned
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 307
Likes: 9
From: Gainesville, FL
I have an 05 EX (EB) and when i first got my truck the trailer lights did not work and I replaced the #6 (20 amp) fuse inside the truck, under the steering wheel. And i have not had a problem with it since. I also tow quite a bit with both the flat 4 and 7 pin connectors.
So I would try that one first.
So I would try that one first.
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I have an 05 EX (EB) and when i first got my truck the trailer lights did not work and I replaced the #6 (20 amp) fuse inside the truck, under the steering wheel. And i have not had a problem with it since. I also tow quite a bit with both the flat 4 and 7 pin connectors.
So I would try that one first.
So I would try that one first.
My #6 is still intact.
I will switch it out with another 20A to see what happens.
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2012
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I agree, invest in a Volt Ohm Meter, simple ones can be as little as $7 or $8 at Harbor Freight or Northern Tools, and check the continuity of the fuse.
It has happened to me once, that a fuse looked perfectly good, but with a continuity check, the needle wouldn't budge.
And FOR GOODNESS SAKE, never use tin foil or aluminum foil or the wrapping off of a stick of gum to bridge an old fuse, you will only cause more damage to the electrical system...
It has happened to me once, that a fuse looked perfectly good, but with a continuity check, the needle wouldn't budge.
And FOR GOODNESS SAKE, never use tin foil or aluminum foil or the wrapping off of a stick of gum to bridge an old fuse, you will only cause more damage to the electrical system...
Tuned
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 307
Likes: 9
From: Gainesville, FL
make sure you let us know what the final solution was to this issue so that we can all learn from it.
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Found Some Time...
All trailer fuses are intact. #6 the 20A fuse is in good shape.
Can you tell me where the relays are under the hood. I have a few pictures. I just need someone to point out what each relay is.
Again this is a 2005 Excursion.
Under the hood, drivers side, between brake booster and fender...
[IMG]<a href="http://s864.photobucket.com/user/98GP/media/Excursion/IMG_0181.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab207/98GP/Excursion/IMG_0181.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0181.jpg"/></a>[/IMG]
same place under the hood, but up close...
[IMG]<a href="http://s864.photobucket.com/user/98GP/media/Excursion/IMG_0182.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab207/98GP/Excursion/IMG_0182.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0182.jpg"/></a>[/IMG]
Thanks for the help!
Can you tell me where the relays are under the hood. I have a few pictures. I just need someone to point out what each relay is.
Again this is a 2005 Excursion.
Under the hood, drivers side, between brake booster and fender...
[IMG]<a href="http://s864.photobucket.com/user/98GP/media/Excursion/IMG_0181.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab207/98GP/Excursion/IMG_0181.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0181.jpg"/></a>[/IMG]
same place under the hood, but up close...
[IMG]<a href="http://s864.photobucket.com/user/98GP/media/Excursion/IMG_0182.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab207/98GP/Excursion/IMG_0182.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0182.jpg"/></a>[/IMG]
Thanks for the help!
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 277
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From: Midwest
I went through this last fall. My trailer running lights or park lights failed on a trip. I replaced the 10 amp fuse and went on down the road for a few miles, then they failed again. I think I had an intermittent fault in the trailer wire, but had a heck of a time finding it.
Anyway, went to plug in the trailer lights and no lights. Fuse was good (#38) so checked with multi-meter, no juice to the fuse block. Started tracing wires. I could NOT find a relay on the trailer light park lamp circuit. It appeared to follow the group of wires straight back. I determined that my fault had to be between the body computer and the fuse box. in other words, not easily repairable.
You will not know where your fault is until you check for 12v at the fuse.
I ended up tapping the parking light circuit to the body, installing a relay and running a 12v lead direct to the battery. I tapped the body circuit at the rear of the vehicle. I could have tapped 12v there as well as there is a power port in the rear body, but decided to home run it to the battery.
Interesting aside, now my trailer lights flash when the park lights do during lock/unlock cycle. never did before.
Anyway, went to plug in the trailer lights and no lights. Fuse was good (#38) so checked with multi-meter, no juice to the fuse block. Started tracing wires. I could NOT find a relay on the trailer light park lamp circuit. It appeared to follow the group of wires straight back. I determined that my fault had to be between the body computer and the fuse box. in other words, not easily repairable.
You will not know where your fault is until you check for 12v at the fuse.
I ended up tapping the parking light circuit to the body, installing a relay and running a 12v lead direct to the battery. I tapped the body circuit at the rear of the vehicle. I could have tapped 12v there as well as there is a power port in the rear body, but decided to home run it to the battery.
Interesting aside, now my trailer lights flash when the park lights do during lock/unlock cycle. never did before.
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