When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Here's the Truck
1982 Ford F100 , 302 Engine Automatic trans
Here's the story,
over the last couple of weeks my truck has not been starting in the mornings when the temp is below 32 degrees
i would go out get in and turn the key ,. The dash lights light up but the truck would not even attempt to start, no click no drain on the battery , nothing
after i clear the windows of frost/ice i'd try again anywhere between 10-20 minutes later the truck would just start, like nothing was ever wrong ,
another issues possibly related is the blinkers/heater would not work unless i wiggled the key into they exact right spot (which seemed to be getting smaller every day,
over the last week i've been unable to get the blinkers/heat to kick on
Attempted solutions,. i went to the parts shop and purchased a new ignition switch and a new key switch
I've removed the old ignition switch (which fell apart into pieces with burnt components inside) and put a replacement one on ,.. i also installed the replacement key switch ,.. unfortunately i'm unable to get the key out of the switch now and there is an immediate drain on my battery when i hook the cable back up (so its been left off for the moment)
my concern comes from not knowing if the rod between the key switch and the ignition switch is in the correct position or anything like that
anyone got some ideas on how to assist or help
i need to get to work on Monday and can't ,..
1982 Ford F100 , 302 Engine Automatic transmission
**RESOLVED**
Last edited by Skuvas; Jan 12, 2013 at 06:45 PM.
Reason: Resolved
i would go out get in and turn the key ,. The dash lights light up but the truck would not even attempt to start, no click no drain on the battery , nothing
Locate the starter solenoid on the passenger front fender right near the battery, remove the small-gauge red/light-blue-stripe wire... insert into the rubber boot the red lead of a voltmeter OR one of the leads from a test light... the other lead from the meter/light goes to ground.
Have somebody turn the key to START while you watch the meter/light - you should be getting battery voltage at that wire in that situation.
If you're not, there is a problem between that point up to and including the ignition switch on the column.
The Neutral Safety Switch (or clutch switch, on later models) interrupts that circuit and keeps power from reaching that point if an automatic transmission isn't in PARK or NEUTRAL.
Originally Posted by Skuvas
another issues possibly related is the blinkers/heater would not work unless i wiggled the key into they exact right spot (which seemed to be getting smaller every day,
over the last week i've been unable to get the blinkers/heat to kick on
This is common and indicates one or more of a sticky key tumbler-to-ignition switch mechanism, or a defective/maladjusted ignition switch.
Attempted solutions,. i went to the parts shop and purchased a new ignition switch and a new key switch
I've removed the old ignition switch (which fell apart into pieces with burnt components inside)
Sounds like it could be a large part of your problems.
Originally Posted by Skuvas
...unfortunately i'm unable to get the key out of the switch now and there is an immediate drain on my battery when i hook the cable back up (so its been left off for the moment)
my concern comes from not knowing if the rod between the key switch and the ignition switch is in the correct position or anything like that
I understand there are some holes both in the column & switch and you can use a drill bit or some such to line them up.
i read the three threads listed above I've installed the new ignition switch and key switch ,.. they key switch will not turn back past the on position ,..
when i hook up the battery the interior fan kicks on like the key is in the on position and i can turn the key to start the truck ,.
however they key will not turn to the off position ,.. so i am unable to use they key to turn off the truck
It sounds like your rack for the switch somehow got "out of time' with the lock cylinder. You have to have the lock cylinder in "run" to remove it, if somehow the gear either came out or got turned that could be your problem.
First would be to remove the switch, then see if the key will go back to off so the key comes out. If you can achieve that, then with the switch off, see if it will go back over the actuator rod. I don't have a picture of the column handy.
Problem has been Resolved.
I've determined that the key would not switch back for two reasons,..
one, I was not trying hard enough ,.. its a new key and considerably stiffer than the older one which i'm sure was not original
two, the Shift Lever (which i had removed in order to take the column appart was not all the way in the park position thus not allowing the removal of the key, which is still very stiff
Thank you for all who posted and Assisted me in my repair i will continue to lurk around the forums as i always do