Key-Start Ignition Help
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 645
Likes: 2
From: Richlands, NC
Key-Start Ignition Help
Hey guys.
Well, after months of working on my truck, I have only one major problem left.
Ever since I bought the truck, I have had to start the truck by crossing the solenoid with a screwdriver.
I am now willing to do anything to fix this problem, so, this is a huge project for me.
First off...
I need to know how to assemble the entire ignition for the truck. Every wire, switch, etc. etc.
Secondly...
I need idea's on why the truck will not start at the key.
Lastly...
Well, I need help on how to fix it.
So, now for...
Current Information
To start it, I have to cross it at the solenoid. The solenoid is not bad, the starter is also not bad.
When I turn the key to start the truck, all the lights in the truck dim, like it is sending power. I also need to find out what could be the problem if that didn't happen.
So... the only idea I have is the ignition switch...
Could this item fix the problem, maybe?
Advance Auto Parts: Ignition Starter Switch by BWD - Part CS120
Or maybe an ignition control module?
Note: When I first bought the truck, I had to jump it at the starter. After about two months of driving, the ignition started to work... It worked like that for maybe a month, then I had to go back to jumping it at the solenoid.
So yes, at one point, it did work.
So, I need any ideas you have. Any diagrams or walk-through, I need anything and everything!
You guys have been right about everything so far, so I imagine you can help me fix this one, too!
Well, after months of working on my truck, I have only one major problem left.
Ever since I bought the truck, I have had to start the truck by crossing the solenoid with a screwdriver.
I am now willing to do anything to fix this problem, so, this is a huge project for me.
First off...
I need to know how to assemble the entire ignition for the truck. Every wire, switch, etc. etc.
Secondly...
I need idea's on why the truck will not start at the key.
Lastly...
Well, I need help on how to fix it.
So, now for...
Current Information
To start it, I have to cross it at the solenoid. The solenoid is not bad, the starter is also not bad.
When I turn the key to start the truck, all the lights in the truck dim, like it is sending power. I also need to find out what could be the problem if that didn't happen.
So... the only idea I have is the ignition switch...
Could this item fix the problem, maybe?
Advance Auto Parts: Ignition Starter Switch by BWD - Part CS120
Or maybe an ignition control module?
Note: When I first bought the truck, I had to jump it at the starter. After about two months of driving, the ignition started to work... It worked like that for maybe a month, then I had to go back to jumping it at the solenoid.
So yes, at one point, it did work.
So, I need any ideas you have. Any diagrams or walk-through, I need anything and everything!
You guys have been right about everything so far, so I imagine you can help me fix this one, too!
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Your ignition module has nothing to do with the starter motor, don't worry about that.
Look at this (one of Franklin2's diagrams):
See that #5 on the starter solenoid? There should be a red/blue-stripe wire connected to that
terminal (I believe it's the S terminal).
When you turn the key to START you're saying the headlights dim? But the starter motor
doesn't turn? I'm assuming you can hear the solenoid click just once?
When you start the truck under the hood, what wires are you crossing? Numbers 3 & 5?
Or are you crossing the fat cables, Numbers 3 & 6?
Look at this (one of Franklin2's diagrams):
See that #5 on the starter solenoid? There should be a red/blue-stripe wire connected to that
terminal (I believe it's the S terminal).
When you turn the key to START you're saying the headlights dim? But the starter motor
doesn't turn? I'm assuming you can hear the solenoid click just once?
When you start the truck under the hood, what wires are you crossing? Numbers 3 & 5?
Or are you crossing the fat cables, Numbers 3 & 6?
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 645
Likes: 2
From: Richlands, NC
My theory is that the "message" that get's sent to the solenoid from the what-not in the column when I turn they key isn't getting to the solenoid.
Like, I turn the key, it's supposed to send something to the solenoid to activate it... but, whatever is trying to get sent there isn't making it. I believe that something with the ignition in the column is messed up.... However, it does draw power, cause my lights go dim. Like, I go by the "emissions" light that comes on when you first turn the key. When you turn it more, that light goes dim, cause the key is drawing power from the battery.
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Like, I turn the key, it's supposed to send something to the solenoid to activate it... but, whatever is trying to get sent there isn't making it. I believe that something with the ignition in the column is messed up.... However, it does draw power, cause my lights go dim. Like, I go by the "emissions" light that comes on when you first turn the key. When you turn it more, that light goes dim, cause the key is drawing power from the battery.
You're borrowing a volt meter, right?
Pull that red/blue-stripe wire off the solenoid, connect that wire to the + of
your meter. Connect the - to a good ground.
Have somebody turn the key to START (tranny in Park or Neutral) and
measure the voltage, you should be getting full battery voltage. If you're not,
there is a problem either in that wire (which leads to the ignition switch) or in
the switch itself.
Given your recent wiring problems, my bet is on the wiring and not the
switch.
The placement of that switch on the column is adjustable but ya gotta drop
the column to get to it....
Remove the wiper & headlight *****, the cluster trim panel, the piece of trim
just below the column, the shroud around the column, the column can then be
dropped by removing the 4 bolts (might be nuts, I forget) holding the column
to the dash support.
The switch itself is held on with two nuts (or bolts, I forget) that I think are
around 10mm in size might be around 7/16, I forget (heard that enough from
me yet?) You can remove it and clean it out, the lube inside gets gunked up, I
re-lube'd mine using dielectric grease. Cleaning it should also help the
tumbler action to spring to RUN from the START position.
I honestly don't know what the wiring for the ignition is, at least not offhand,
I'd have to look it up in the book. Why the need for that?
Do you have tilt wheel by chance? Only reason I ask is, there's a pot metal
piece in the column that connects to a gear on the tumbler (one one end) and
connects to a rod that runs the length of the column and actuates the ignition
switch (on the other end). That pot metal thing breaks which could keep your
tumbler from activating your switch.
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 645
Likes: 2
From: Richlands, NC
OK, the dash lights get dimmer, not the headlights.
You're borrowing a volt meter, right? Yes
Pull that red/blue-stripe wire off the solenoid, connect that wire to the + of
your meter. Connect the - to a good ground. Okay, will do.
Have somebody turn the key to START (tranny in Park or Neutral) and
measure the voltage, you should be getting full battery voltage. If you're not,
there is a problem either in that wire (which leads to the ignition switch) or in
the switch itself. Mmkay
Given your recent wiring problems, my bet is on the wiring and not the
switch.
The placement of that switch on the column is adjustable but ya gotta drop
the column to get to it.... Are you saying I have to drop the column just to get to the switch?
Remove the wiper & headlight *****, the cluster trim panel, the piece of trim
just below the column, the shroud around the column, the column can then be
dropped by removing the 4 bolts (might be nuts, I forget) holding the column
to the dash support. Okay... crap.
The switch itself is held on with two nuts (or bolts, I forget) that I think are
around 10mm in size might be around 7/16, I forget (heard that enough from
me yet?) You can remove it and clean it out, the lube inside gets gunked up, I
re-lube'd mine using dielectric grease. Cleaning it should also help the
tumbler action to spring to RUN from the START position. Alright.
I honestly don't know what the wiring for the ignition is, at least not offhand,
I'd have to look it up in the book. Why the need for that? Yeah, who needs directions!
Do you have tilt wheel by chance? Only reason I ask is, there's a pot metal
piece in the column that connects to a gear on the tumbler (one one end) and
connects to a rod that runs the length of the column and actuates the ignition
switch (on the other end). That pot metal thing breaks which could keep your
tumbler from activating your switch. Nope. No tilt steering.
So, you think it's the wiring. Now, that wire that plugs into the S of the solenoid, does it go all the way back and into the ignition switch inside the column?
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
and fix.
shifter, sorry.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 645
Likes: 2
From: Richlands, NC
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
But, think how much you're learning and how much money you're saving by not paying
somebody else to do this!
'course it's costing you a lot of time but, to me, this kind of stuff is fun, I do this for
relaxation.
somebody else to do this!
'course it's costing you a lot of time but, to me, this kind of stuff is fun, I do this for
relaxation.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,437
Likes: 4
From: Charles Town, W bygod Va
It could be the nuetral switch, the wire goes from the ignition switch to the NSS (nuetral safety switch on an auto trans) then to the solenoid. Try holding the key in start then moving the shifter around, try nuetral also, the nss should have continuity in park and nuetral. On most C6 trannies the nss is on the drivers side of the trans where the shifter lever is, I think aod's are different.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,437
Likes: 4
From: Charles Town, W bygod Va
one other check, the ignition switch on top of the column may be out of adjustment. Put your hand under the dash on top of the columnwhile turning the fey back and forth. You should find a metal rod that is moving between the lock cyl and the ign switch. When you turn the key to crank the rod pushes the switch, try grabbing the rod and pushing it a little further, its not easy but sometimes it just takes a little bit morewe movement. BTW< I looked at the wiring diagram and it appears the wire is red/blue all the way to the ignition switch.
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 645
Likes: 2
From: Richlands, NC
It could be the nuetral switch, the wire goes from the ignition switch to the NSS (nuetral safety switch on an auto trans) then to the solenoid. Try holding the key in start then moving the shifter around, try nuetral also, the nss should have continuity in park and nuetral. On most C6 trannies the nss is on the drivers side of the trans where the shifter lever is, I think aod's are different.
I have a C4 Transmission, and the NSS is on the drivers side of the trans where the shifter lever is.
Also, the NSS is not hooked up, because it wasn't working, because it wasn't engaging my backup lights.
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 645
Likes: 2
From: Richlands, NC
one other check, the ignition switch on top of the column may be out of adjustment. Put your hand under the dash on top of the columnwhile turning the fey back and forth. You should find a metal rod that is moving between the lock cyl and the ign switch. When you turn the key to crank the rod pushes the switch, try grabbing the rod and pushing it a little further, its not easy but sometimes it just takes a little bit morewe movement. BTW< I looked at the wiring diagram and it appears the wire is red/blue all the way to the ignition switch.
I shall try that before I head out to work.
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 645
Likes: 2
From: Richlands, NC
Now don't get me wrong, I enjoy working on my truck. I love it, cause when it's fixed or completed or whatever I did, I feel really good about it.
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Ah! I forgot about the NSS
1990 but I seem to remember reading here that you'll need to jump some wires
in that wiring harness if you disconnect that switch. The purpose of that switch
is to allow the starter to operate ONLY when transmission is in Park or
Neutral, this could be your entire problem....