Ok so Ive been having some issues with my ignition switch. Its been a bit loose and now sometimes I cant even turn it to start/on. Sometimes I have to pull on the whole thing just to get it to turn. Now I have noticed to that the key is very worn down cause I can pull the key out even when the truck is running.

Could it just be the key or is the ignition switch going on me? Is this an easy job to change it out?

 

My son had a similar problem with his 96 and went to the dealership to have a new key made and hasn't had the problem again...? Not sure if your problem(s) are the same as his but it sounds pretty close. His problem was, at times, the key wouldn't work to turn on the ignition switch. The key wasn't loose though but was worn down some...might try it..?

 

Well I tried the spare key and the same thing was happening so I'm thinking it could be the switch.

 

I would agree that it is the switch.

Ok so i was just doing a quick search on google for any easy instructions and look at this crock of bulls**t i just found.
How to Adjust a Bronco Ignition Switch | eHow.com
CHEVY BRONCO ARE YOU EFFING KIDDING ME!!! and it only talks about my dash style switch not the column one....

Anyways so i kept searching and found a FSB thread that might help.
Steering column teardown and ignition actuator replacement in a 1995 (92+ Columns) - FSB Forums
Good luck

 

WOW What a Fail. I book marked the link I'll have to take a look at it when I get the chance. What I'm doing now when I shut the truck off is leaving it in the position right before it locks, basically I dont need the key to start it right now.

 

Ah probably worn tumblers and key... Only an assumption though not an answer. I didn't really read the FSB thread too much but it does look like it might have good directions to at least point you in the right direction.

 

Don't forget that between the key and the actual ignition switch, is the ignition lock cylinder.

Here is a pic at one of our FTE sponsors: More Information for STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS US176L

The brass strip on the lock cylinder assembly is the cover that holds in the pin sets and springs for the cylinder. If your key is that worn, the cylinder assembly may be wearing out. When you insert the key, the springs should push all of the same-length spring pins against the keyed-length pins, which match the key's notches. If it all lines up right, then the break line separating the spring pins from the keyed pins will be right at the outer wall surface of the roatating cylinder, allowing the cylinder to be turned. Basic lock stuff.
If they don't line up, then the cylinder can not be turned. If they are just a tiny bit off, it will be hard to turn.

Replacing the lock cylinder is easy. And they come with two new keys.

If the problem is indeed the lock cylinder, then replace it BEFORE it fails!!!

To replace the lock cylinder, you have to have the key in "Run" and press in a nail or other suitable slender object into the release hole in the bottom of the cylinder. Most lower shrouds have a hole for it, it is the hole without a screw in it. Then the cylinder will pull out. A new one just snaps back in in "Run".

If it fails, so you can't turn it to "Run", then it becomes a MUCH bigger job, which has to be handled with a measured amount of brutality.

 

Thanks for the input Torky, I wish I had the time to do this but I haven't had a chance to do anything, even on the weekends. And like I said I haven't been putting it in the lock position just cause it takes a few minutes to get it to turn. So right now I techinically dont need the key to start. If I wasn't going away this weekend I would work on it.

 

If you have a new cylinder assembly....it takes about 2 min. to swap.....and nobody can steal your ride. Skip lunch and fix it.

 

Alright I broke down and bought it for 2x as much as I could of if I ordered it online, but Pete you are right I dont want it stolen especially since I'm taking it 150miles up north this weekend.

It took about 10min and some fiddling around but I slid the new one in it locked it and she starts right up.

Thanks again. Issue fixed.

 

Glad to hear all is well. Enjoy your trip

 

Heres a tip...from past experiences.
Only keep the KEYS for the Truck.... on the key chain for the Truck.

I had 2lbs of keys on mine, and they swing all over, on every bump in the road, every corner in the road too. The extra weight, hanging off the key in the tumbler will act like a "slide-hammer" and do more damage over a short period of time....something to think about.

Keep those other keys for everthing else on a separate key chain. Bub50

 

I have driven a few customer cars like that, so many keys and doo dads on the chain that it is heavy. Mine has my vehicle keys with a detachable link along with locker, safe, toolbox, house key, a small knife, and a little Ranger keychain thing. It isn't super heavy but not too light.

 

You know I never thought of but your absolutely right. Ive got house keys for 3 or my relatives and for 3 vehicles now so I already took off keys since I had to add one because I changed the lock cylinder

 

And to add to that, when you keep piles of keys apart you will not lose house keys when you lose truck keys and vice-versa......
Ask me how I know this...