ignition switch removal...when key is gone

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Dec 8, 2006 | 07:17 PM

66F100Again

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Tuned

Joined: Nov 2006

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From: Massachusetts

ignition switch removal...when key is gone

PO of my truck rigged up what looks like an universal ignition switch...with lots of extra (now rusty) washers in place of where the bezel and factory switch once lived. Wiring is also kind of *@!?# as dash lights come on now whenever engine is running. I want to return to OEM set-up, and found a junkyard truck w/ switch, bezel, etc all intact. Problem is the key is MIA, so I don't think the various posts to this site (turn key to acc, insert paperclip in hole, turn & remove, etc) will work for me.

Dave Engelson had a post describing the delicate procedure of drilling out the key cylinder, salvaging everything but it (saving some $). The trick would seem to be to avoid messing up the switch assembly. Is this as tricky as it sounds?

Has anyone discovered any other tricks?

It looks like to go new I'd need:
switch: C3AZ 11572-A $13.95
cylinder & key assembly: C3AZ 11582-A $12.95
bezel: C3TZ-11584-A $22.95
=> ~$50.
Am I missing anything? (I'll still probably get the wiring harness out of the junkyard truck)

Suggestions for (a) how to salvage an ignition assembly w/o the key? (b) did I list the right inventory of stuff to buy new?

Thanks.

Dec 8, 2006 | 07:34 PM

barry

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From: Connecticut

THat's basically what you'll need.THe only other way to get the cyl out of the switch is to remove the bezel, take switch assy out of truck. On the side of the housing is a small hole towards the back side. It has a brass pin that you can see. You can take a small ( 1/8 ) punch and drive it down. Don't be brutal with it. You can do this on a vise. Drive it inward and the cyl can be removed by using a screwdriver in the key slot to turn it until it slides out of the switch. The tumbler is now junk. Test the switch to see if the on-start spring action is ok. You can then assemble it into the truck. Make sure you can start the truck with a screwdriver in the slot in the switch. line up the slot with the position the key and tumbler go in and slide it in and turn to the on position. It won't seat all the way in the switch if you don't have things lined up. That little pin you drove down before on the old one will pop up to lock it in place when you go over to the on position. it has to be down on the new one to go into the switch. While you're doing this, take your door locks out and get them re-keyed at a locksmith. THat way you don't need more than one key! JUst give him the 2 locks and a key to match the ign. and you're all set.

Barry

Dec 8, 2006 | 08:27 PM

66 POJ

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Joined: Sep 2006

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From: Heart of Ga.

66f100again Autoparts stores also carry our switches. I got mine at Autozone, Tumbler and switch= $17.00 + no shipping cost.

I bought one from LMC 1 year ago and it fell apart on me (broke ear on rear).

Dec 8, 2006 | 08:37 PM

Redmanbob

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From: Mddl A MexCans

Yep, dealer should have them too. Not too expensive. But if you just really want that one in the yard. Grab a blank key a pair of vice grips and a file. Insert the key in the ignition, clamp the vice grips on and give it a few stiff turns back and forth. Remove key and notice marks on the key. Clamp the key to something with the grips and start filing

Dec 8, 2006 | 08:55 PM

airharley

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Joined: Nov 2001

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From: Escondido, CA

The tumblers are commonly made out of brass so be careful twiting it back and forth. But if I recall you can't make a key like that since the teeth on the key push the spring loaded tumblers down into the slots and align the shaft so it spins. I could be wrong but that is how I remember the internals of the one I riped the face off of.

Dec 8, 2006 | 09:12 PM

Redmanbob

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From: Mddl A MexCans

Quote:

Originally Posted by airharley

But if I recall you can't make a key like that since the teeth on the key push the spring loaded tumblers down into the slots and align the shaft so it spins.

"I had both my door key and my ignition key made using this method" for a 74 Fastback stang. Yes it can be done.. do i think it's worth the effort given his situation .. probably not.

Dec 8, 2006 | 09:39 PM

airharley

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Joined: Nov 2001

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From: Escondido, CA

Well that's what I get for thinking huh. So how did you like your 74 Pintang?

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Dec 9, 2006 | 08:29 AM

barry

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From: Connecticut

It's actually easier to just pull the door lock out of the drivers door and the key code is stamped into the lock. It has a FA, then 3 or 4 numbers after it. A locksmith can cut a key. The only drawback is if the ign tumbler has been changed before. You can still get the key and tumbler from Ford, but the price is very high now. Somewhere around 50-60 dollars! It's been awhile since I last sold one, obviously because of price.

Barry

Dec 9, 2006 | 03:45 PM

#10

66F100Again

Thread Starter

Tuned

Joined: Nov 2006

Posts: 265

Likes: 5

From: Massachusetts

I'm thinking my best bet is to at least try to get the ignition bezel from the junkyard (it's $20 from Dennis Carpenter...and $27 from BOTP) and hopefully the switch (and associated wiring). Then I'll splurge on a new lock cylinder...and while I'm at it get new door locks (my driver's door lock is missing anyway). Thanks for the information.

-Bill (66F100Again)

Dec 9, 2006 | 04:09 PM

#11

66F100Again

Thread Starter

Tuned

Joined: Nov 2006

Posts: 265

Likes: 5

From: Massachusetts

Barry
I just had a delayed reaction revelation to your suggestion. Following your advice, if I remove the door lock from the junkyard truck, get a key made by a locksmith based on the code, I can then use the key to remove the ignition assembly from the junkyard truck (which is missing the keys). Probably you had this in mind; I'm just a little dense.

Thanks,
Bill (66F100Again)

Dec 9, 2006 | 05:41 PM

#12

barry

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From: Connecticut

You got it right! I've coded quite a few of these over the years, as I've had the inside scoop by being in Ford parts for so many years. Do what you said, just pull the locks from the junkyard truck and clean both locks off and the code is there. Take them to the locksmith and he'll do the rest. Alot cheaper than a new set.

Barry