bad intercooler boots??
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 2,613
Likes: 8
From: North Georgia
yes he it talking about your pcm.
it should be covered mostly by a black plastic container thing...
on the backside of the unit.. opposite the side with the cable connector... look for a hole cut in kind of a rectangle... were wondering if your truck is chipped already...
im doubtful with max boost around 20 psi tho.
now that chips are on topic...
steer clear of them until EVERYTHING is back to 100% on your motor.
it should be covered mostly by a black plastic container thing...
on the backside of the unit.. opposite the side with the cable connector... look for a hole cut in kind of a rectangle... were wondering if your truck is chipped already...
im doubtful with max boost around 20 psi tho.
now that chips are on topic...
steer clear of them until EVERYTHING is back to 100% on your motor.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
Yes it is chipped.. i let my girl drive it and when she downshifted she pulled my old chip out which fried my pcm and chip i got a new pcm and a ts6 chip and thats also why i though i should get alot more boost
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 7,793
Likes: 50
ok, it makes sense to me anyhow, on the egt #'s and also blowing off a cac coupling, with redline unhooked. I'd defintly remove the chip and do/find the boost leaks, collector leak, prior to re-installingthat chip, bud.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 2,613
Likes: 8
From: North Georgia
Tugly i drilled and tapped my egt into the drivers side manifold had to get about 5 different fittings to make damn sure it wasnt leaking lol (pain in the ***) and im getting about 1300-1400 max on that wot.. my boost gauge is in the map line.. would there be a big advantage to re doing that where you have it? Or leave it? Would i have to take all of that off to make sure no shavings get left in there? Thanks
yes injector orings is an easy job... but i would suggest you get a lot more familiar with these motors before getting that deep into it. it sounds like your truck is right on par with where it should be and pretty good in overall health...
read...
learn as much as you can from the first couple threads at the top of the forum threads.
there is an absolute wealth of information to be gleened on this site. any problem you are experiencing will more than likely yield you a cure by searching for it in the advanced search feature of the site. dont just use the search bar... use the search tab... and click advanced search.
with advanced search you can look in specific forums of your choosing for answers to your questions... more than likely... your question has been asked many times before.
learn the parts of your motor, and the acronyms used to describe or relate to those parts.
find a post by "tugly"... any post... and click the very last link in his signature... be amazed.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
Ok will do! Im trying to get the hp up on my truck.. on a budget lol i think i will order new boots and those o rings. does the wastegate housing come off easy to put new o rings in? Any other things i shold check/change when i do that?I will look at the top of my up pipes when i get home cuz its pouring rain... i though i knew engine's till i moved to diesel now im scratching my head alot! Thanks
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 2,613
Likes: 8
From: North Georgia
ok... now i feel a little better about where your coming from.. right about exactly where i was last marh lol...
wastegate has no orings... its probably ok if your turbo is making 18+psi.. maybe just adjust it... if you wanna go ahead and pull your turbo... (which you will have to do anyway to fix up pipe leaks...) you might just check for soot where the center cartridge joins the exhaust housing... that would indicate a leak... for all this... you just gotta read... its a totally different world from gas engines. injector orings is easy... just time consuming and semi meticulous. be very careful with the under valve cover harneses/gaskets... they get pretty brittle... but at least they arent too expensive to replace if theyre toast...
read read read.
read some more...
sleep and digest what you read...
wake up and stare under your hood and go OOOOH!
read read read...
there is a pattern here...
its kind of like being a medical professional... never-ending uptades to your education...
wastegate has no orings... its probably ok if your turbo is making 18+psi.. maybe just adjust it... if you wanna go ahead and pull your turbo... (which you will have to do anyway to fix up pipe leaks...) you might just check for soot where the center cartridge joins the exhaust housing... that would indicate a leak... for all this... you just gotta read... its a totally different world from gas engines. injector orings is easy... just time consuming and semi meticulous. be very careful with the under valve cover harneses/gaskets... they get pretty brittle... but at least they arent too expensive to replace if theyre toast...
read read read.
read some more...
sleep and digest what you read...
wake up and stare under your hood and go OOOOH!
read read read...
there is a pattern here...
its kind of like being a medical professional... never-ending uptades to your education...
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
I need to drop my business classes and take diesel classes to understand this lol im starting to understand it little by little is that pretty hard to take the turbo off? Just dont want to get in over my head and not be able to drive.. when i order those o rings should i just order both sets to be on the safe side?
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 2,613
Likes: 8
From: North Georgia
not hard... awkward tho..
putting it back in gets fun... (that is sarcasm)
you will cuss at the rear most clamp between turbo and baby's butt
lots of good writeups just read read read.
with the turbo out of the way... all other work on top of the motor gets reeeeealy easy.
so....
read read read...
evaluate what you think your truck needs...
then buy parts...
pictures...
they are almost priceless in aiding us to help you.
photobucket and google+ work well for linking.
best advise i can give you at this stage is just read read read.
the resources tab at Riffraff website has wonderful detailed instructions for most if not all the issues discussed so far. read read read.
putting it back in gets fun... (that is sarcasm)
you will cuss at the rear most clamp between turbo and baby's butt
lots of good writeups just read read read.
with the turbo out of the way... all other work on top of the motor gets reeeeealy easy.
so....
read read read...
evaluate what you think your truck needs...
then buy parts...
pictures...
they are almost priceless in aiding us to help you.
photobucket and google+ work well for linking.
best advise i can give you at this stage is just read read read.
the resources tab at Riffraff website has wonderful detailed instructions for most if not all the issues discussed so far. read read read.
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Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
Jeez Chris... so you're saying he should read? 
What Chris is really saying, is at least learn enough to target your questions here on the forum. I see boots, injector O-rings, pedestal O-rings, up pipes, tuners, and my favorite... baby butts.
You have the option of not reading, and remaining at the mercy of something as dubious as advice on a forum, or the profit-oriented mechanics and vendors. I chose door number 1 sixteen months ago. From this, I was able to save my platinum trillion-dollar coin for later use at Riffraff Diesel. Well... I saved a few grand and bought bandages for my knuckles with the savings.
What Chris is really saying, is at least learn enough to target your questions here on the forum. I see boots, injector O-rings, pedestal O-rings, up pipes, tuners, and my favorite... baby butts.
- 1300-1400 is too hot when the minute hand starts to move.
- Dial your chip to position 1, that is most commonly a "stock" tune.
- Boost gauge is working where it is. Just remember that 27-28 is your real PSI max.
- Forget O-rings until you know you're going to buy something to solve a problem. For example: You say "I have exhaust leaks going into the up pipes and coming out of the baby's butt. Should I fix them or replace them?" We would link you to the pertinent information and mention "You might as well replace your pedestal O-rings while you're in there." and post a link if you asked.
You have the option of not reading, and remaining at the mercy of something as dubious as advice on a forum, or the profit-oriented mechanics and vendors. I chose door number 1 sixteen months ago. From this, I was able to save my platinum trillion-dollar coin for later use at Riffraff Diesel. Well... I saved a few grand and bought bandages for my knuckles with the savings.
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