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Old Jan 12, 2013 | 12:22 PM
  #31  
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Oh got ya! Sorry this is my first diesel lol and if i run that line to one of those.. drive it and see if it gets more boost pressure... and if not i need a new wastegate? Thanks
 
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Old Jan 12, 2013 | 01:16 PM
  #32  
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woah there silver...
nobody said anything about new wastegate... that would basically require a new turbo..

this is just to test to see what kind of boost you can make with the wastegate unhooked from the selonoid. it will allow the boost to build until the wastegate actuator (now unhooked) physically cant hold it any further. this can sometimes be increased by tightening the wastegate actuator control arm a couple turns. dont go there yet... just see what kind of boost you get with redline relocated to a cac boot bolt.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2013 | 01:26 PM
  #33  
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Ok i was looking under the hood and that red line splits into 2 which one or both should i put on there?
 
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Old Jan 12, 2013 | 04:42 PM
  #34  
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...ok
.... more slowly.

look at where the intake tube that comes from the airfilter.
follow it to the turbo. right there... that little red tube.. now turn right and follow it to the top of the turbo to the wastegate actuator. there is only 1 red line with a black boot up there. leave the stuff on the spider alone.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2013 | 05:28 PM
  #35  
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sorry i realized what i did when i post that.. got it off and put it on the cac ... i took it for a drive and it was pretty big difference.. so big it blew the hose off of the back of the gauge! i used the old hose with the new gauge.... the turbo is alot louder and seems to spool faster and accel alot faster is it ok to leave this off? or what would be my next step? thanks
 
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Old Jan 12, 2013 | 06:55 PM
  #36  
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there are mixed feelings on leaving it off permanently... mine stays plugged into a clamp bolt.

technically the turbo is designed to handle so much rpm.. go past that imaginary redline and you have "overspooled"... this can lead to much more stress on the moving parts than they were designed to handle... eventually stress cracking the turbine, and burning thrust bearing out... push it farther and grenade the turbo.

at 32psi boost...
i have no fears of this happening.

if you dont have them.
gauges.
get them.
egt, tranny temp, fuel pressure, boost are the favorites around here.
egt (pyrometer) in my opinion is absolutely the most important.
welcome to modifying your psd.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2013 | 08:22 PM
  #37  
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subscribing
 
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Old Jan 12, 2013 | 08:40 PM
  #38  
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Well if i decide to replace the o rings that you were talking about earlier.. what wouod i have to get? Where would i get that?
 
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Old Jan 12, 2013 | 09:02 PM
  #39  
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This is a picture from when I was closer to stock. You can see the red line was capped and I ran it like that for a year (20,000 miles). With all the mild mods up to that point, I reached 30 PSI boost (maximum rating). You can see the boost sensor mounted on the spider in the photo, it's on the "hot" side of the intercooler. Most people put their boost sensor on the cold side because it's easy and convenient. The hot-side install tells me precisely what pressure the turbo is seeing, because I did not want to exceed the maximum pressure. The spring on my wastegate automatically dumped any pressure over 30 PSI with the red line disconnected. That was perfect for me.

If the MAP sensor (installed on the "cold" side of the IC) sneaks up on 25 PSI, your SES light will fire up until about a minute after you let off the gofastbeloud pedal. This is normal. The MAP line sees about 15% (very rough number) less boost than what the turbo puts out because the cooled air "shrinks" in volume.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2013 | 09:12 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by awaterman
Well if i decide to replace the o rings that you were talking about earlier.. what wouod i have to get? Where would i get that?

for all you oring needs...

DieselOrings

and for many oem and aftermarket goodies...

Riffraff Diesel Performance Parts | Ford 7.3 diesel | 7.3 powerstroke | Ford Powerstroke | 7.3L Powerstroke Parts
 
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Old Jan 12, 2013 | 09:44 PM
  #41  
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waterman, not sure if you mentioned it, but look down at the ebrake pedal, and to the right of it, you'll see a rectangular uprighted black box. See if theres a square cut out of it / duct tape on it?
 
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Old Jan 13, 2013 | 09:58 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by timmyboy76
waterman, not sure if you mentioned it, but look down at the ebrake pedal, and to the right of it, you'll see a rectangular uprighted black box. See if theres a square cut out of it / duct tape on it?
Are you talking about the pcm? Mine is silver.. not 100% sure if that is what your talking about.. i don't see any other boxes there..
 
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Old Jan 13, 2013 | 10:03 AM
  #43  
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Looked at the site christof13t not sure what ones i would need.. they seem to be all fuel and oil o rings also you mentioned about the injector o rings.. are those hard to change or could i do it? And also since this is my first diesel truck.. not sure but i think they are the on top of the block with wire connectors on them?? They look like they are pretty dirty. Im trying to learn so if this stuff isnt to hard i will do it my self...thanks everyone for your help
 
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Old Jan 13, 2013 | 10:06 AM
  #44  
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Tugly i drilled and tapped my egt into the drivers side manifold had to get about 5 different fittings to make damn sure it wasnt leaking lol (pain in the ***) and im getting about 1300-1400 max on that wot.. my boost gauge is in the map line.. would there be a big advantage to re doing that where you have it? Or leave it? Would i have to take all of that off to make sure no shavings get left in there? Thanks
 
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Old Jan 13, 2013 | 10:09 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by awaterman
Are you talking about the pcm? Mine is silver.. not 100% sure if that is what your talking about.. i don't see any other boxes there..
Yes, the PCM. Should be a black "case" around it. If there was/is a chip in it, there would be a rectangular "cut out" of it, facing you.
 
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