So after installing a SG2 on my new 6.0 I got, the bat volts are only reading 13.3 to 13.5 when driving which tells me its almost time to change the batts. I was thinking of the Optima gell. Anyone have any thoughts or suggestions on batts for the 6.0? Thanks

 

The answer is really in the question "how much do you want to spend?".

I just bought Sears Diehard Platinums (very similar to the Odyssey batteris) and am very happy with them. Good warranty: 4 year free replacement and 100 month pro-rated.

You can get much cheaper batteries (wall mart, costco, autozone, etc) and they will probably last 2, maybe 3 years. You may even get some warranty left with them. Financially the cheaper batteries may be better, but they will probably have to be changed out twice as often.

 

Those readings sound about right for the first 2 or 3 minuets of run time, after that it should go up to 14 ish

 

Good point Tim. The volts when running really depend on your alternator. What are the volts when cranking?

 

try changing the alternator first. if your alternator is
OEM, all you will ever see is 13.3~13.5 volts

fix the alternator FIRST. or just keep replacing batteries forever.

often.

 

Yeah but after several minutes they'd not go up and stay in the low 13's. Have been tossing the idea of upgrading alternator. Any ideas?

 

Isn't there also some discrepancy between what the OBD-II port voltage reads, and what a voltmeter reads across the battery terminals?

-blaine

 

x2....Sears keeps your purchase on file. I replaced mine after 2.5 years, never thought there was a pro rated warranty. The guy punched in my info....said hey these batteries are in the system with a pro rate...got 'em for 1/2 the price.

 

Well found this upgrade for single alternator 6.0's

http://store.alternatorparts.com/6g-...lternator.aspx

Any thoughts?

 

The stock units are too weak IMO, You need AT LEAST a 140 A unit. Ford makes one that fits. That being said, people I respect have said that the Ford alternators aren't much different than the Autozone / OReilley units. The reason you need more amps is because of the output curves vs the rpms and because they all are derated as they heat up. The minimum spec on our stock alternators (110A units) is 50A at idle and only about 85A at 2000 rpms (approximate numbers). They may actually do more than that, but Ford considers values to those levels as acceptable (THANKS JACK!). Normal power draw (not including glow plugs) is around 50-60A from what I have read / been told.

Stock alternator output curve (from FMTRVT):
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/m...or-output.html

Personally alternatorparts.com is not all that high on my list (largely because their warranty is not all that good and it is hard to find actual performance information). That being said, I know some people that have used them and have had very good luck though. They are US made and it appears that many of the parts come from the US.

You need to decide what your goal is.
Are you going to run any significant aftermarket electrical loads?
Do you want one with parts made in China or US (is that important to you)?
What kind of warranty do you want?
How much do you want to spend?

IMO the best alternators are the DCPower aternators - They are well made and use US parts. However, they are expensive and a number of people have had significant delays in getting the unit - without much communication from them. My experience has been very good. They always answered my calls as I was working on a project to run 4 batteries. Also, they do not offer a lifetime warranty that I know of (I believe it is 2 years). I do feel that their 185A and 190A units are a good fit for our trucks. They are around 120A at idle.

If you would rather have a lifetime arranty, they are out there. Just be aware that a lifetime warranty does not always guarantee quality.

 

Correct, there is about .2-.4 volt difference between the OBD port and at the battery.

So, theoritically if one is seeing 13.5 at the port, you might have 13.9 at the battery.

With that said the stock 110 amp 6G is grossly under-powered for the 6.0 operating environment.

I would want to see a bare minimum of 13.6 volts at the port and would want to see an average of around 14 at all times, hot engine.

Josh

 

It's considered "best practice" when the internal regulator is designed to reduce charging voltage to around 13.8vdc when the alternator gets hot (inferring that the battery and ambient temp is warmer as well) to prevent the batteries from getting cooked. Voltage by itself is a one sided view of what is working well.

If one uses the different power ports in the cabin mostly you will find differences in voltage as well, all due to the losses in connections, switches, relays or grounding points.

If you want to know what the alternator is generating voltage wise you have to pick up the connections at the alternator itself, both positive and negative. If you want to know what voltage the batteries are at the best you can do is pull from the terminals, but they will be effected by the connection between the terminals and clamps so never ideal.

Analog gauges are OK for telling you the general state of things, but you need a fast acting analog (unusual) or fast acting, non-damped digital gauge to tell if the alternator is starting to rapidly fluctuate it's voltage, the best tell that you are about to have issues in the coming weeks.

 

I have always had good luck with the Motorcraft batteries and the dealer will install them and keeps the paperwork on file as well (warrenty also stays on file and if your traveling one dealership can call your's back home to verify).

My dealer will price match and the CCA's are the same.... so I stayed with Motorcraft.

My only issue with Sears, is that they are in such financial problems, who knows if they will be around in 1, 3 or 5 years... so your warrenty may be worthless (just saying and no way to prove or disprove, but they are in financial hardship if you Google it).

P.S. - you always want to actual the actual output of the alternator at the terminals and not the OBD port. As well, you need to wait 3 - 5 mins after starting to ensure the glow plugs have shut off as these have a huge drain on amperage draw.... which will show a lower than normal reading.

 

Well stated fmtrvt post #12 so many people are making desicions based entirely on voltage. the other part of the puzzle must include amperage and of coarse the PATH i always recommend an on vehichle test as outlined in bismics post #10 before spending money on batts or alternaters as many times the problem or problems are in the circuit wiring (volt drop ) and or connectins especially at alternater and grounds