locking hubs
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2012
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From: South Texas
locking hubs
Am thinking about switching out the auto locking hubs on my 81 f150 for some WARN manual hubs but was just wondering if there were any special considerations that I should take before jumping into this little project.
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Virginia
They usually sell a "kit" that you need with the conversion. The auto hubs must use a different way to hold the wheel bearings in, because the kit usually gives you new locking nuts for the wheel bearings. I have never done the swap before, but remember seeing the kits online at autozone and other places.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Northeast, OK
Yes, I've seen those kits for changing over from auto-locking hubs to manuals, and they do say they are required. I just changed from the standard Warn hub that came on the truck to MileMarkers for two reasons. One, the MM's have no plastic in them while the Warns have a lot of plastic. Two, I liked the looks of the MM's better.
But, I had fits getting three of the six screws out of one hub, and discovered that the heads of the screws are only about .005" smaller than the recess into which they go. As it turned out, those three were seized in that recess. So, if you do go with MM hubs I'd recommend using some kind of lube on the heads of the screws so you can get them out later.
Edit: Forgot. The torque for the first nut is 50 ft-lbs, and you torque it while rotating the wheel to seat the bearings. Then you back the nut off ~45˚ and try to put the retainer washer on. But, you'll probably have to rotate the nut a bit to get it to the nearest hole for the pin to go through. Then the lock nut is put on over that and torqued to 50 ft-lbs.
But, I had fits getting three of the six screws out of one hub, and discovered that the heads of the screws are only about .005" smaller than the recess into which they go. As it turned out, those three were seized in that recess. So, if you do go with MM hubs I'd recommend using some kind of lube on the heads of the screws so you can get them out later.
Edit: Forgot. The torque for the first nut is 50 ft-lbs, and you torque it while rotating the wheel to seat the bearings. Then you back the nut off ~45˚ and try to put the retainer washer on. But, you'll probably have to rotate the nut a bit to get it to the nearest hole for the pin to go through. Then the lock nut is put on over that and torqued to 50 ft-lbs.
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From: SE Michigan
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post11236959
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2012
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From: South Texas
Dunno if an autohub to manual hub change out is the same as a manual hub upgrade but here is a link to a manual hub upgrade i did on my 1980 f350 awhile back. Its a quick and easy change.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post11236959
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post11236959
but your post did give me a clearer picture of what to expect.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,437
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From: Charles Town, W bygod Va
I have actually read your post several times and even printed out all the pictures to help me on the project. I still haven't addressed the hubs yet. I decided to throw more money for new replacement parts around the engine.
but your post did give me a clearer picture of what to expect.
but your post did give me a clearer picture of what to expect.
FTE Legend
Joined: May 2008
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From: In my own world
Jeff's bronco graveyard sells a mile marker kit to convert the auto hubs. It comes with some really great instructions. I did my 94, and it is a great improvement
Here's the link to Jeff's
Early Bronco Restoration Full Size Bronco Restoration Classic Ford Bronco Parts For Sale
The hardest part of the conversion is getting the auto lock wheel bearing nut out. They were one time use, and not available anymore.
One of mine came out, no problem, I had to destroy the other.
The new set up uses the wheel bearing tool that's available in any parts store.
Here's the link to Jeff's
Early Bronco Restoration Full Size Bronco Restoration Classic Ford Bronco Parts For Sale
The hardest part of the conversion is getting the auto lock wheel bearing nut out. They were one time use, and not available anymore.
One of mine came out, no problem, I had to destroy the other.
The new set up uses the wheel bearing tool that's available in any parts store.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,437
Likes: 4
From: Charles Town, W bygod Va
Jeff's bronco graveyard sells a mile marker kit to convert the auto hubs. It comes with some really great instructions. I did my 94, and it is a great improvement
Here's the link to Jeff's
Early Bronco Restoration Full Size Bronco Restoration Classic Ford Bronco Parts For Sale
The hardest part of the conversion is getting the auto lock wheel bearing nut out. They were one time use, and not available anymore.
One of mine came out, no problem, I had to destroy the other.
The new set up uses the wheel bearing tool that's available in any parts store.
Here's the link to Jeff's
Early Bronco Restoration Full Size Bronco Restoration Classic Ford Bronco Parts For Sale
The hardest part of the conversion is getting the auto lock wheel bearing nut out. They were one time use, and not available anymore.
One of mine came out, no problem, I had to destroy the other.
The new set up uses the wheel bearing tool that's available in any parts store.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,437
Likes: 4
From: Charles Town, W bygod Va
I took that to mean you had to remove the factory wheel bearing nut and it was some kind of one time use thing.
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