Last year I installed single shots and a few other goodies. After the instal I threw p0676(glowplug 6 circuit failure) and a p0238 (Turbo boost sensor high output high)codes. I put off pulling the driver valve cover and looking at the number six glowplug. (probably a mistake)
So fast forward to a couple weeks ago, the truck is vibrating more than normal.
It got worse,and now I have these codes: p0238,p1000,p063,p1316,and p0676.
None of the pins look burnt on the harness.
This will be the fourth uvcwh I have installed on the driver side.
I'm assuming driver side,of course.
What are some things to check when I get into this? I guess that the p0676 could be a short.
Any opinions would be greatly appreciated.
Ron

 

Where are you getting your wiring harness? Perhaps it's time to try a different brand if it's bad again. Or perhaps it's not the harness at all. Have you ohmed the wiring or connectors to see if it checks out ok? Have you run a buzz test to see what IDM codes show up?

 

I get the harness from my local Napa parts store here.The guys there are real parts guys,not like the local auto zone. I guess that doesn't mean the harness didn't come from China.
I hope to have some time tomorrow to start checking things out.
I'll do a search to see if I can find some threads on how to do a buzz test.
I'm just now starting to research threads to come up with ideas and things to check. And how to check.
With the 676 code having been going on for a while,I'm assuming that its a short.

 

To do a buzz test you will need to purchase the Auto Enginuity with enhanced power train here and put it on a laptop. Riffraff Diesel: AutoEnginuity Total Ford Enhanced Bundle

The valve cover gasket is here:
Riffraff Diesel: Ford Valve Cover Gasket 99-03
The wiring harness for the Under Valve Cover is here:
Riffraff Diesel: Ford Under Valve Cover Harness 99-03

That aftermarket stuff is crap. Get OEM. I will bet you have burnt pins on your drivers side valve cover.
The Auto enginuity is what most of us use to troubleshoot our trucks. With the enhanced powertrain you can view lots of data while running. You can do the buzz test. If you own a 7.3 you need this software.

 

I just went through a UVCH issue with another member. The harness came loose, but the loose connection allowed arcing on the pins on the VC gasket... ruining the gasket. Here is how it played out. [LINK]

That code you have is a general code. When I see that code with my AE, I conduct a Key On Engine Off (KOEO) test and it polls the IDM to tell me exactly what wire on what injector is doing what. Example: Left bank open... or Injector 6 shorted to ground.

Until you get AE, you can conduct a continuity test with the 42-pin connector to test the whole injector circuit.

 

Thank you for the link/info Rich. The pics were very helpful.

I have another project to finish and I'll start on my "beast of burden".

I hope to solve this without buying AE.

 

There is a guy that just opened a smog shop next to my shop.
I'll ask him if he can do a scan of some sort.

 

I checked the driver side glow plug pins tonight and they ohm ed out at 1.
Ill figure out how to do the continuity test in the morning.
I have a harness in my shop so I'll put it on.


I'm seriously tired of having to work on this truck. Always happens when there's allot going on.

 

Sure beats stealership rates.....especially at christmas time.

 

Thanks for that.....

I'm putting the driver side harness/gasket on today.
I want to make sure everything that could be wrong under there is checked.
I have a basic meter for checking.
Remind me, What all should I check while I'm in there?

I have done this,but my memory is shot.
I have to relearn every time I do something. Kind of like Groundhog Day. lol

 

I know the day is almost over but I am working shutdown and no time for puter surfin. Place one lead on top of glow plug and other lead on metal on head and read resistance for each glow plug. Should be less than 2 ohms but best when less than 1. Here is the 50 cent mod below. Hope it is not too late.

<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <wontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--> For the 50 cent mod you will need two quarters, a short 13mm socket, deep 13mm socket and a universal or wobble short extension to get the back bolt on the drivers side and a few of the bottom bolts on the passenger side, a 13mm wrench and a long(6-8 inch) extension. Various wrenches and sockets for pulling harness connector and Intercooler boot clamps.
Only takes 20-25 minutes to pull the Turbo intake hoses and Turbo pipe(metal) on the driver's side. Be careful with the boots. Just be easy with them.
Don't pay too much attention to all the oil inside of the inlet tube and metal pipe as you can clean them any time IN THE FUTURE.
Right now focus on taking the valve cover off. I take out the stock filter and all the inlet tubing going to the turbo then I gently shove a not so good towel into the stock filter box AND lay a moving blanket( very thick folded over several times) over the battery and stock filter box so I can lay on it while I take the Valve cover bolts out. Be careful of the towel in the stock box for the sensor in that box. They are fragile. I am short so please laugh and work with me at the same time.
Unbolt the 42 pin electrical connector on top of the valve cover. If you have an air compressor, now is the time to blow any debris around the valve cover down out of the way.
Take a PICTURE or take note which fasteners are bolts and which ones are studs with a nut to mount something else to. You will want to put it back exactly as it was. Get the 13mm socket and a 13mm wrench.
DO NOT TAKE THE Positive Crankcase Vent or CrankCase Vent(CCV) DOGHOUSE OFF UNLESS YOU HAVE THE FOUR ORINGS TO RESEAL IT
4 Viton O-rings to reseal the Crank Case Vent cover
OR THE ORINGS WILL SWELL UP AND BE NO GOOD AND YOU WILL LEAK OIL ALL OVER THE PLACE UNTIL YOU GET THE NEW ORINGS.
Using the 13mm wrench carefully remove the bolt just above the CCV dog house and leave the CCV in place. You will not be able to use the socket with the CCV in the way. Now you can use that 13mm socket and take all the rest of the bolts out. The hardest one is on the rear of the cover and you can not see the bolt without a mirror. Don't worry about the mirror, just loosen it and place the bolts to the side. I use a 5 quart pail to put my fastners in. Slow down when you get the bolts loose and keep a tight grip on them unless you like fishing for metal in the pit of hell. I put a tarp under the truck for items I drop to easily find them.
When you pull the cover loose, be slow and easy so you don't put any debris in the VC area. If your harness connection is loose, very gently push the connector towards the top of the VC gasket and let the clips clip UPWARD into place. You could also unclip it and inspect for burnt connectors. Place the connector back firmly in place. Now take the quarter that you have shaved off right at the top of the hair line on the head and slide it in round side down and flat, cut side toward the TOP of the valve cover. DO NOT FORCE ANYTHING unless you have a fresh Benjamin Franklin laying around to spend on a new gasket/harness.
The clips should be clipped fully in and pushing up while the quarter holds the clips up. The flat spot gives the valve cover enough room to be installed and keeps the quarter from going anywhere.
If you want to you can now check the torque on the:
Lower injector hold down bolts at 120 INCH lbs.
Rocker arm bolts at 20 Foot lbs
Valve cover bolts when reinstalled will be 96 INCH lbs.
Verify all of the injector connectors are secured and clipped
Verify all of the glow plug wires are tight.
Do everything in the reverse order to put it all back together. Wipe the oil coated pipes down to remove any excess oil and start on the passenger side
Remove the intercooler pipe. You will figure out that you have to move it above the turbo to get it out. Lots of room above that turbo. I loosened my boost pressure gauge and tied it back with string or a small bungee.
Bungee cord the two heater pipes toward the passenger side fender. I put the Moving blanket on this side but did not lean on the A/C pipes. Same thing on this side except you have a bolt holding down the Engine Oil Dipstick so be careful with the dipstick. Only pull the dipstick high enough to remove it from the stud. The bolt near the AC compressor is tight but you can get to it with a few extensions and a deep socket. Same one as the oil dipstick. Note the stud positions again. Don't loose the heater hose clips because they are 28$ at the dealer. Loosen and remove the rest of the bolt/studs. Same thing as the driver's side from here.
Man, that is a lot of typing. Talking thru it is much less time consuming. LOL. Put a wrench in your hands and get to work. The sooner you get it done, the sooner you can drink that favorite cold beverage and relax that another inexpensive mod is done and you will feel better for not spending any money at the mechanic shop or Stealership
It might even run much better or have gained some power back. Same torque values as mentioned above. Be careful whilist VC's are open. If it rains you need to shut the hood all the way immediately after you remove the blanket and slowly slip the VC in place. I hope this helps and is not too mundane. I prefer air tools but you need to put it back together with regular rachet/wrench and get torque values correct.
Dwayne
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lol-Dwayne,thanks for the write up man!
I'm actually getting ready to instal a gasket/harness I had here at the shop on the driver side now. It was sitting on a shelf and I can't even remember who gave it to me.It's not an oem-I am keeping my fingers crossed. I already lost one of the little zip ties into the #8 "hole".It literally fell off. I checked the other ones and two were barely on. I put new ones on.
I'll re-use the quarter from the old harness. I had the viton o rings from the last gasket instal.
There was nothing burnt on the old one(??)
My torque wrench only goes down to 25 flbs,so I'll have to go by feel I guess.
If this doesn't fix the problem I'll have to order an AE. I don't know anyone close by that has one.
I just put the tracks on my rhino and want to head up to the snow tomorrow-lol

 

SES light came on again on the way home from the shop.
Need to find an ae to run some tests.
I see this thread is getting a few views so I'll post my progress.