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A dumb question on headers...

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Old Dec 18, 2012 | 08:42 PM
  #16  
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I agree with Roger Carter, heat seems to help. Even used a propane torch on 390s not in vehicle. I have used stainless bolts before, but they always felt funny when backing out. Never broke one, but I think stainless has a tendency to gawl the threads.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2012 | 12:01 AM
  #17  
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Also with my 4 speed I had to add another clutch spring off to the side because part of the linkages were catching on the 3 bolt ring on the collector lol 2wd btw.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2012 | 12:14 AM
  #18  
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Then bolt the starter on then the headers.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2012 | 12:33 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by mikeo0o0o0
On 360/390's the bottom row of bolts for the exhaust manifolds are "blind" holes. They go into the block and bottom out. The top row of bolt holes are through holes. The bolt can screw all the way through and stick out of the end of the hole. A lot of times the bolts in these holes will seize up and break off.
Use lots of good penetrating oil (PB Blaster, Kroil, etc.) and time. Soak the top row of bolts and let them sit, then do it again, and again over several days.
Learned something! Thanks.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2012 | 12:38 AM
  #20  
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The blind exhaust manifold bolts all came out on mine. It was one of the tops that snapped. Nothing a drill and a timesert couldn't fix though.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2012 | 02:03 PM
  #21  
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So let's hear some more about the header collectors terminating just shy of the transmission support. My F-100 is 2WD, and an automatic... anyone out there NOT have a problem with headers clearing their transmission support, and what kind of set-up do you have? Great info here!

Thanks,
Karl
 
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Old Dec 19, 2012 | 02:36 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by veetwelve
So let's hear some more about the header collectors terminating just shy of the transmission support. My F-100 is 2WD, and an automatic... anyone out there NOT have a problem with headers clearing their transmission support, and what kind of set-up do you have? Great info here!
I pirated this image moons ago for future reference....

This FTE'er modified the trans crossmember with two reliefs to provide more clearance for each tube to pass by the transmission. It's worthy of consideration IMO.

<O</O
 
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Old Dec 19, 2012 | 03:18 PM
  #23  
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Can someone please post up that side shot view of the awesome pipe routing someone on here did. I cant find it but it shows the clearance issues, and a great way to work thru it. That guys exhaust guy is a guru.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2012 | 03:30 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by 7636074460
Also with my 4 speed I had to add another clutch spring off to the side because part of the linkages were catching on the 3 bolt ring on the collector lol 2wd btw.
I had the same issue with my current FlowTechs (but not the Hedmans).The clutch fork was hitting the top of the 3 bolt ring, I added a universal carb spring from the fork spring hole, to the firewall, which raised lever just enough to clear the ring. Its been working fine for 3 or 4 years now.
As for the trans crossmember issue, I had no problem with my 4 speed 2 WD truck, maybe the automatic or 4x4s are different? On my truck, the bracket for the radius arm mounts are close to the collectors, but were no problem. I took my truck for a custom dual exhaust system, and they bent the tubing to allow the pipes from the collectors to run on top of the trans crossmember.
I don`t have the number for my FlowTechs, but I believe the F100 thru F350 2 WD use the same headers.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2012 | 07:02 PM
  #25  
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Right , I never have had a clearance issue but if I did a quick way for some room is to get some spacers in there and the trans mount to lower the cross member I would think
 
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