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just wondering if anyone has ever seen 1 of these. it's a tekonsha brake controller that was on my 78 f250 it has a hydrolic line that hooked to the master cylinder and 2 coiled wire resistors mounted on the inner fender. looks really weird, not even sure how it all works.
It is an oldie.
The controller converted the hydraulic pressure from the master cylinder to an electric signal for the trailer brakes. The resistors usually had 3-4 places to tap into them. The wire from the controller typically hooked to one end of the resistor pack and the wire to the trailer brakes hooked into one of the tap points.
If you were running empty you might use all the resistors, to minimize the power to the trailer brakes. With a fully loaded trailer you might use only one resistor, lightly loaded and you might use 2 or 3 resistors. The resistors helped you keep from locking up the trailer brakes.
The controller still had the ability to manually set the brakes by moving the "handle" sideways.
Today's controllers have the "bias" settings in place of the resistors.
They sure don't build them like they used to, do they?
they sure don't! some things are definately easier to use with the new technology but i bet those old ones will keep working for years after the new ones take a crap.
I do know that they are less forgiving on the braking. The new ones don't seem to lock up brakes as bad. That being said, I have, I think, 2, and my dad has one in his Dodge. I like the manual lever more than anything.
they sure don't! some things are definately easier to use with the new technology but i bet those old ones will keep working for years after the new ones take a crap.
I still have one, a remanant of my mid '80s flirt with pulling a camper trailer. Goldish grey steel box, clamp under steering column, hook line to master cylinder with a tee, brake wire to a open coil as described which I mounted to the firewall. Has a long lever that sticks out that you can grab for manual control of trailer only. Worked great but after I sold the trailer .... a year or so later it started leaking brake fluid so I pulled the control part out.
Needs O-rings in it's piston I figure. I disconnected the rest, but that coil board is stil there. It too will come out one day.
It is an oldie.
The controller converted the hydraulic pressure from the master cylinder to an electric signal for the trailer brakes. The resistors usually had 3-4 places to tap into them. The wire from the controller typically hooked to one end of the resistor pack and the wire to the trailer brakes hooked into one of the tap points.
If you were running empty you might use all the resistors, to minimize the power to the trailer brakes. With a fully loaded trailer you might use only one resistor, lightly loaded and you might use 2 or 3 resistors. The resistors helped you keep from locking up the trailer brakes.
The controller still had the ability to manually set the brakes by moving the "handle" sideways.
Today's controllers have the "bias" settings in place of the resistors.
They sure don't build them like they used to, do they?
Roger Carter
Does the resistor board look something like this? I found this prize in my truck when I was looking to buy it
Yes.
That looks like a "new and improved" resistor board, with adjustable resistance. By loosening the the "clamp" and sliding it up or down the resistors you could vary the resistance. No tools needed and quickly adjustable.
An inprovement over having to move a wire from terminal to terminal for different fixed resistances.
that is exactly what was on mine except there where 2 of them 1 next to the other and actually almost in the exact spot as yours. i pulled it all off as i have no use for it and set it up on the shelf.
clindahl i too have one of those on one of my s/c the original owner that i bought the truck from said it worked great so i just left it there i also have one with the fitting on the brake line and just the under dash controler in the cab alberta banned any thing hooked the the brakes hydrolic system in the early 80s
They have fallen out of favor, mostly due to having to plumb them into the brake system, which opens up additional routes for failure of hydraulic pressure. apparently they occasionally leaked and since they use brake fluid, the seals and piston inside the unit that control them can stick, leak, or fail as well.
whereas a timed brake control is a simple box with a timer circuit and will last pretty much forever. Not uncommon to find a late 80's F250 or 350 with an 80's vintage timed reese controller that is still working just fine.
If the hydraulic box is working I'd leave it, but if not you can get a timed controller for $50 or less and you can get the newer ones that use accelerometers that most people prefer for around $120.
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