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A dumb question on headers...

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Old Dec 14, 2012 | 05:30 PM
  #1  
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A dumb question on headers...

This may sound silly, but I haven't found the answer in the archives, and of course it's not covered in my factory repair manual...

I'm looking to install a set of long-tube headers, probably Hooker or Hedman, on the 360 in my 1975 F-100 (not 4WD). Does the engine have to come out to do this, or can the headers be installed without pulling the engine? I know there is a likelihood of breaking bolts, but the iron logs were resurfaced and reinstalled with new gaskets and anti-seize on the bolts not more than a few years ago.

So discounting broken bolts, how much of a PITA is this install going to be?

Thanks!
Karl
 
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Old Dec 14, 2012 | 05:38 PM
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IIRC, look up the header application(s) at Summit Racing and check if Summit provides a PDF of the installation instructions. That should provide some clues...

I believe they have to go in from underneath, requires that the left engine bolt be loosened, and the right engine mount removed in order for it to slide up in there. Removing the starter is recommended if not required.

I bought Sanderson PN427 headers to avoid the headaches of long tubes on a 2WD.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2012 | 08:11 AM
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I bet that it will be crowded, probably doesn't have to come all the way out but I but you will swear and sweat by the end of it.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2012 | 12:20 PM
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When I put some long tube Doug Thorley on my460(2WD),I had to raise the front end up a bit:
 
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Old Dec 15, 2012 | 04:48 PM
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Way back when on a 73 F250 w/360 I had to unbolt the starter, move it around while setting the headers up in there. Then bolt the starter on then the headers. Kept thinking this starter better last a while..... I used Hedmans
 
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Old Dec 15, 2012 | 04:50 PM
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on mine i had to re route brake lines,trans cooling lines,and install a mini starter and kinda had to do the starter and headers at the same time,but i bought the headers off craigs list so not sure of the brand and maybe thats why i had such fun.
on the brake and trans i used poly-armour lines,they are the shiz,can be bent by hand if you are carefull.but on sharp bends use a tube bender,and all the auto stores have them
the starter in the pic can be rotated on the mount plate to miss the headers
 
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Old Dec 15, 2012 | 07:33 PM
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When I installed mine, Used the technique HIO Silver outlined above.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2012 | 11:03 PM
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Thanks guys... from what I'm hearing it looks like I need to schedule this job when I've got other major work to do on the engine. I was hoping to just "slap on" a set of headers in the near term, but the job doesn't sound like it's quite that easy.

Thanks again for the input!
Karl
 
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Old Dec 17, 2012 | 01:38 AM
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On my 74 F350, I have used the Hedman long tubes for 14 years, and recntly replaced them with FlowTech longtubes. Both brands look virtually identical. As mentioned, I had to unbolt the starter, and I wired it to the header collector for installation, the tubes run pretty close to the stock, full size starter, but have never caused any issues. I didn`t need to raise the engine during the install, but I did need to Re & re some of the clutch linkage. Broken off upper row exhaust manifold bolts are a potential issue, since the bolt holes are open. Before I did anything else, I would ensure that all the upper bolts will come out OK. Plenty of penetrating oil (and time), or a torch may well be required.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2012 | 02:30 AM
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I have (dynomax) blackjack longies and I had the starter off but re-installed after the header was in position so I'm not sure if you really have to?, one thing I noticed no one else mentioned is I had to bend my inner fender away from the engine (I used a B.F. crescent wrench lol). I dont remember having any problems with the driver side and I don't remember having to pick up the engine. They went in from under and took a long while of finagling.

This time I cheated and tied them to the frame before dropping the new motor in with the whole front body off! That makes it soo dang easy sitting on the tire and bolting that up!
 
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Old Dec 17, 2012 | 06:06 AM
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After you wrestle them in cussing and jacking up your motor, pulling starters ect....

Then you will realize that headers that come out inside the frame, you will have to contend with the trans crossmember being 3" to 4" right in the way of connecting up the rest of the exhaust sys.

Correct 2wd guys? At least on a F150 4x4 auto, it was right in the way.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2012 | 01:00 PM
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I tried some Hedman headers on my 73 2-wheel drive with a 390 and took them off. The starter was an issue, but the main thing was that the outlets were directly in front of the transmission cross-member and would have to have had a quick offset to miss.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2012 | 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Rory428
On my 74 F350, I have used the Hedman long tubes for 14 years, and recntly replaced them with FlowTech longtubes. Both brands look virtually identical. As mentioned, I had to unbolt the starter, and I wired it to the header collector for installation, the tubes run pretty close to the stock, full size starter, but have never caused any issues. I didn`t need to raise the engine during the install, but I did need to Re & re some of the clutch linkage. Broken off upper row exhaust manifold bolts are a potential issue, since the bolt holes are open. Before I did anything else, I would ensure that all the upper bolts will come out OK. Plenty of penetrating oil (and time), or a torch may well be required.
Do you have the part number for the Flowtechs? I have a 73 F350, 390, 4-speed as well and want to put on headers and dual exhaust. If I remember correctly, don't they list those headers as being for a F250? Also, do we have the cross-member the guys with the auto's are wrestling with. I haven't looked yet. Also, what do you mean by "the bolt holes are open" on the upper bolts? Thanks for your help.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2012 | 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Purebeef
Also, what do you mean by "the bolt holes are open" on the upper bolts? Thanks for your help.
On 360/390's the bottom row of bolts for the exhaust manifolds are "blind" holes. They go into the block and bottom out. The top row of bolt holes are through holes. The bolt can screw all the way through and stick out of the end of the hole. A lot of times the bolts in these holes will seize up and break off.
Use lots of good penetrating oil (PB Blaster, Kroil, etc.) and time. Soak the top row of bolts and let them sit, then do it again, and again over several days.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2012 | 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by mikeo0o0o0
On 360/390's the bottom row of bolts for the exhaust manifolds are "blind" holes. They go into the block and bottom out. The top row of bolt holes are through holes. The bolt can screw all the way through and stick out of the end of the hole. A lot of times the bolts in these holes will seize up and break off.
Use lots of good penetrating oil (PB Blaster, Kroil, etc.) and time. Soak the top row of bolts and let them sit, then do it again, and again over several days.
Not to jack the thread, but...

If the engine runs I suggest this.
I have had great success with removing the top exhaust bolts on FE's by taking them out, or at least loosening them, with the engine warm and running. I still use penetrating oil on them for a few days before removal, usually when I park the truck for the day, letting it soak overnight, repeating for several days.
I have never had an exhaust bolt break on a FE since I started using this method. I have burnt a couple knuckles though.
If the engine isn't running you are back to the usual methods of dealing with broken bolts.

Good luck.

Roger Carter
 
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