are you rotating the pump in the correct direction?

 

Well I think so. I did not map it out but when turned cw looking at the gear face it wants to push oil out the inlet. When turned ccw it pulls it down but will not keep pulling it if you fill it as it lowers. It will take maybe a half cup of oil and then it will just stay at that level even with the pump still turning.

 

I mapped it out and am certain that I am turning the pump the right direction. Counter clockwise viewed from the front of the gear or the back of the engine from the drivers view point. Any idea why it will not pump oil? Since it obviously was working before I shut down the engine I will probably re-install it tomorrow. Since I am planning to do a compression test I will see if it makes any oil in the high pressure rails after the cranking for the test. Actually I have an old stand pipe I could put in without the rail and get my self a shower if it is working. That could be fun.

 

modern babbett bearings, from wikipedia:

"In more modern practice, the crankshaft and connecting rod big
end bearings in a modern automobile engine are made of a replaceable
steel shell, keyed to the bearing caps. The inner surface of the steel
shell is plated with a coating of bronze which is in turn coated with a
thin layer of Babbitt metal as the bearing surface.

The process of laying down this layer of white metal is known as Babbitting."

There are many Babbitt alloys in addition to Babbitt's original.
Some common compositions are:
90% tin, 10% copper
89% tin, 7% antimony, 4% copper
80% lead, 15% antimony, 5% tin
76% copper, 24% lead
75% lead, 10% tin
67% copper, 28% tin, 5% lead

it's unlikely that your main or rod bearings are the issue,
unless there was a lubrication failure, which would eat
turbo bearings quickly.

i've spun main bearings twice in my life on gas engines.
with the compression load on a diesel, i suspect you'd
think hell on earth had arrived before everything melted.

lube on this engine at wfo i believe is 30 quarts
pumped *per minute*. so you are filtering the oil once
every 30 seconds.

 

LPOP is rated at 19 gpm

 

I am really surprised that the flow is that much. Nice to know I had it right on the brass. But I do agree that I likely did not spin a bearing. The brass in the filter had me grabbing at straws and a little worried. I have not had this truck long enough to change the oil once and I have been stranded twice and spent near $3500 on it. So I am a little gun shy at the moment. I am about convinced the brass was from an old failure. I did find a piece of the old turbo in the muffler.
My big concern at the moment is the HPOP not pumping oil in my bench vice. I do not want to assemble it to find the pump has gone south. Hopefully I will find out tomorrow that my concerns are unfounded.

 

Well my concern on the HPOP was unfounded. I have the engine reassembled and it starts and the high pressure holds for a long time after shut down. However the problem I was going after remains. Truck runs extremely rough and makes a lot of unfriendly noise. Sounds like a valve hanging open some times or a compression leak. A spitting sound if you will but not on every revolution. No new codes yet but I am afraid to run it long enough to warm it up. Any ideas where to look or what should be my next step?

 

After opening up the HPO system, you need to take it on a series of heavy acceleration runs to get all of the air out of it.

 

Thanks for the input but this problem started while in motion at freeway speeds. I do not doubt there is some air but I can't think it is the issue I am facing. It sounds just as it did when I shut it down 20 miles away and towed it home. It does not sound good enough to drive and I think full throttle operation would be dangerous for the engine. I fear I would have a major failure if I run it as is.

 

Can you post a video? Kinda hard to get an idea around the "unfriendly sounds"!

 

I had not thought of a video. I do not have a video cam but think my digital has some limited ability to do that. I will check that out and see if I can get something usable to post.

 

Well that did not work very well but standing in front of the engine instead of the cab and I think the noise may be a bearing on an idler. It sounds like it is coming from the rear of the motor but sound can fool a person sometimes and it sounds more like an idler than anything else I can think of. So in the AM I will pull the belt and check that possibility before I do anything rash. I would do that tonight but I am in a residential area and want happy neighbors so I limit my activity after dark thirty.

 

I want to thank you all for your input and concern. This forum is a great place and you are good folks.
I pulled the belt, noise did not change. When I hit the starter for a second after reinstalling the belt the starter did not disengage when I released the key. I pulled the started hoping against all odds it had not been disengaging. So I cleaned up the solenoid which was sticky with crud. Ran the truck for maybe 5 minutes. The noise which sounded more and more like an idler went away after 3 minutes. Engine is rough at idle and sounds like it is almost over worked to idle. It did die once after the noise went away and it sounded like you let the clutch out on a manual in gear. I thought it was seized from the way it sounded. But it started right up again. Has a steady but light amount of white smoke which increases a lot if you attempt throttle up. Very rough then and a lot of what sounds badly burned exhaust gaskets on a small V8 engine. Also showing a code for #4 contribution/balance again and I switched that injector out.
At any rate it is bad and I am pretty sure it is deep. I did not have the right adapter for the compression test but will get one now see what that reveals. Might be in the market for a good used 6.0
Thanks again

 

Maybe #4 burned a Hole in the Piston

was that the injector in the pic?????was the copper washer gone on that one

 

I am thinking hole in piston or bent and sticking valve. I do not know if a valve can hang or how far until it starts fighting the piston. All the seals on all four injectors were good. I did have my head elsewhere when I thought I had changed that injector. It was the one that I did not change so how long it was in service I have no clue. I also will pull the oil filter and look at how much stuff it has gathered in 5 minutes.