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I've got an injector #7 misfire, so it looks like I'll be replacing my first stick since the warranty expired.
Does the injector from Ford come with the copper crush washer?
Will I need to buy anything else except for the oring kit?
where is injector 7?
edit: it looks like number 7 is the farthest back on the passenger side. Great! I get to do the hard side.
TIA
AE pics below. I've never understood the Power Balance test, it most always looks the same. Seems to me something should look odd with #7, but I'm just not seeing it. As I shut down each cylinder one at a time, all made the engine run noticeably rougher, except it was only a subtle difference when shutting down #7. So that plus the code pointing at #7 lead me to believe that #7 is my culprit.
I've got an injector #7 misfire, so it looks like I'll be replacing my first stick since the warranty expired.
Does the injector from Ford come with the copper crush washer?
Will I need to buy anything else except for the oring kit?
where is injector 7?
edit: it looks like number 7 is the farthest back on the passenger side. Great! I get to do the hard side.
TIA
AE pics below. I've never understood the Power Balance test, it most always looks the same. Seems to me something should look odd with #7, but I'm just not seeing it. As I shut down each cylinder one at a time, all made the engine run noticeably rougher, except it was only a subtle difference when shutting down #7. So that plus the code pointing at #7 lead me to believe that #7 is my culprit.
The reason you are not seeing it on the cylinder balance test is because the PCM is compensating for the misfiring injector and AE does not have the ability to turn this compensation off the way that the Ford IDS can. The OEM remanufactured injector comes with the copper crush washer installed. Just make sure the injector hold down bolt hole does not have any liquid in it before you install the new injector and make sure the old copper washer is not left in the injector cup. If your truck is an 05' to 07 I would install the updated standpipe and dummy plug while you are there. You will know if the standpipes or dummy plugs have been updated already as the updated standpipes and dummy plugs take a 12MM hex bit to remove and the originals were a 10MM. And you are correct the #7 is the rear most on the passenger side.
Just replaced my #2 injector on the road. Gotta have your tools with you at all times.
Many recommend torquing the torx injector bolt to 26-27 lbs, instead of the Ford spec of 24 lbs to ensure the copper washer seats well.
Good luck.
The tube connected to the oil rail that goes down into head is keeping me from getting the oil rail out. No mention of this tube in the workshop manual. Ideas?
The tube connected to the oil rail that goes down into head is keeping me from getting the oil rail out. No mention of this tube in the workshop manual. Ideas?
That's the standpipe. It unscrews out of the oil rail. Loosen the standpipe, then the oil rail and wiggle them out.
Pull both the dummy plug and standpipe out of the oil rail first. Makes it much easier to just pull straight up. It also allows the rail oil to drain, not making quite the mess when pulling up ( large two hex bolts).
Can the standpipe go back in after the oil rail is torqued down? I'm trying, but the angle doesn't seem to allow for it because of the AC box. Might just have to pull the bolts out of the oil rail so I can install the standpipe at the same time as the oil rail.
Can the standpipe go back in after the oil rail is torqued down? I'm trying, but the angle doesn't seem to allow for it because of the AC box. Might just have to pull the bolts out of the oil rail so I can install the standpipe at the same time as the oil rail.
Yes, you just need to lube up the o rings on both dummy plug and standpipes after installing the oil rail. Torque the small torx bolts, securing the oil rail to 8-10 lbs.
I used Vaseline to coat the injector o rings before inserting.
I also filled the oil rail after reinstalling to avoid dry start attempts.
Expect a no start for 10-15 seconds after first trying to start, 3-4 starter attempts.
I really don't think the standpipe will go down the hole at the angle allowed by the darn AC box. I have half the bolts back out of the oil rail already anyway,and rra
I really don't think the standpipe will go down the hole at the angle allowed by the darn AC box. I have half the bolts back out of the oil rail already anyway,and rra
If clearance still isn't okay, I'd put the standpipe in halfway and wiggle them both down together.
Good luck.
On the passenger side oil rail, you'll need to separate the upper and lower half of the standpipe prior to installation. Slide the lower half of the standpipe into the oil rail first, and let it drop into place. Then carefully thread in the upper half of the standpipe until snug. Torque all your nine TX-30 oil rail fasteners to the factory 8 ft-lbs. spec (I usually torque to 10 for good measure). Then, torque your standpipe and dummy plug to 60 ft-lbs. to complete the installation.
150 is pretty close. Had #5 replaced under warranty a few years back. Probably should have replaced 1 and 3 while I had the valve cover off. This is the first time I've taken a valve cover off this truck myself, the standpipe and oil rail threw me off a little. Different setup than my previous 03.
