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Effii gets rebuilt

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Old Jul 30, 2013 | 02:05 PM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by 4x4falcon
I'm trying to do all these type of things now while it is totally apart so I don't have to do them later when it will be difficult to get at.
Well it makes perfect sense ross,after fitting my down pipe,always pays to step back and have a good think instead of fullboar into the project.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2013 | 02:07 PM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by SSSimon

I agree, the Hypermax should fit easily with your truck body lift & bell housing mods !
Fitted a few of the ol hypermax's there simon,i didn't know ..
 
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Old Jul 31, 2013 | 04:49 AM
  #78  
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I wish...

Working from the specs mate:

Hypermax

No up-pipes between the head-end and the firewall - thats where there might have been a problem going for the stock-style set up.

Anyway, the real question now is will the Hypermax fit under your stock hood?
 
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Old Jul 31, 2013 | 06:46 AM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by SSSimon
Anyway, the real question now is will the Hypermax fit under your stock hood?
Given that it's for a 1988-1994 and mines a 1986 and there's no difference between an 1986 and 1988 (other than cosmetics) it should

It also says "fits under stock hood".

However, it's probably moot at the moment as I'm not fitting it yet and want to get the rest of it done first.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 05:54 PM
  #80  
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Week begining Monday 29th July 2013

Not as much done this week as I had a few other jobs that could not be put off any longer and had to get them done.

Cab on the chassis and bolted down.



This is the clearance between the firewall and the bell housing. The closest point is 80mm (3 1/4in) so should be plenty of room for the up pipes of a Hypermax turbo setup. Where the down pipe goes its 125mm (5in).



Started cutting holes in the insulation (sound deadening, carpet underlay) for the inside of the firewall.

Made new cover plates for the interior floor, the originals had rusted out.

That's it for this week.

Next week I hope to finish painting the cab as the rain has gone and although the nights have been cold (<15degC) the days have been around 25degC so ideal for painting.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2013 | 09:54 AM
  #81  
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Its looking good, nice job with the paint
 
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Old Aug 9, 2013 | 06:43 AM
  #82  
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I am enjoying this
Keep the updates going
Cheers,
Patchy
 
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Old Aug 13, 2013 | 05:02 AM
  #83  
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Week begining Monday 5th August 2013

Well it's done. Cab is painted.





White pearl, silver fox with candy red metalflake, and 3 coats of clear. I'll leave it until everything else is done, except the tray, before buffing it.

Did a few minor items between coats of paint.

Sorted the shift lever, it was pointed at the left hand seat, now just to the left of the right seat, I'll have to modify the centre console slightly, just needs to be moved back about 2 inches.

Started taking other bits off the old chassis.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2013 | 06:58 PM
  #84  
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Week begining Monday 12th August 2013

Removed the 9" rear diff and springs from the old chassis.

Striped and cleaned all of the diff and springs. Repainted and reassembled. Then put it in the new chassis.



Still have to complete the brakes but they are getting a complete overhaul, new cylinders, springs, shoes and handbrake cables. I forgot to order a new set of shoes so hopefully they will be here early next week and I'll probably have to get a new set of drums, one is damaged, I'll have a look at the drums on the 8.8 and see what condition they are in.

Going to have to get longer rear shocks, current ones are 670mm at maximun extension but the distance between mounts is 700mm.

Next week intend to have the rear brakes complete including all brake lines on the diff, also complete the interior insulation and install the carpet, wiring, etc.

Everything is coated in a fine white dust from the sanding and painting. Hope to have it running in about 3 weeks then I can easily get it in and out of the shed to wash everything down and have it outside while I do the rest of the painting.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2013 | 02:28 AM
  #85  
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Good stuff mate, coming along nicely..
I'll be **** farting around with diff ratio's soon,just trying too work out what ratio cuz I did a fuel comp test comparing my 35's too my factory 31's the fuel comp test was 3 l/100k's so im going to see if I can gear it down to some where near factory gearing if I can..
 
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Old Aug 19, 2013 | 06:53 PM
  #86  
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At this stage I'll be keeping the 3.5 ratios.

Running 33's should give about 1700 rpm in 5th gear at 100kph so I'll see how it goes.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2013 | 09:30 PM
  #87  
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Week begining Monday 19th August 2013

Rebuilt rear brakes. Waiting on new drums. Drums from 8.8" diff don't fit 9" diff, center hole is 83mm needs to be 73mm.



New rear brakelines complete.



Installed most of the insulation in the interior.



Had originally measured this as 1800x1700mm required so ordered 4 sheets of this:

Car Builders - Sound Deadener Heat Insulation Car heat Shields : Acoustic Liner - Underfelt - stage 2 sound deadener

as it's 2000x1800mm.

However with cutting in you really need 5 sheets, so will have to wait until the next lot arrives.

Installed the hydroboost, brake master cylinder and clutch master cylinder.



The hydroboost was supposedly a bolt in item, not so. If it had been delivered with the mounting bracket centered then it would have been. White marks on arm show the centerline of the rod.





As it's offset I need the same as a superduty truck which will be impossible to find in Oz.

So I welded a 14mm bolt in the hole and attacted the actuator there, full travel on the rod and no binding.



I'll keep the nyloc on the bolt but also put a lock clip on it so it can not come loose.

Similar as in this thread:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-brakes-6.html

Still need to sort the brake light switch (have to find it, it's in the shed somewhere just not sure where). Washers are only temporary until I sort the switch.

Also started on the steering shaft, stainless steel rod hanging down to right of clutch master. Just waiting on the paint on the bracket to dry before bolting it all up.

Pulled the front diff from the old chassis.

Need to replace disc rotors, really bad scoring on one of them, had not noticed any issues with this, going to slotted and drilled rotors.

 
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Old Sep 4, 2013 | 03:33 AM
  #88  
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Week begining Monday 26th August 2013

Stripped down the front diff, ready for painting.

Cleaned and painted the front hubs and calipers.



Cleaned, painted and installed the rear drive shaft.

Except for the shock absorbers and bleeding the brakes the rear is now complete.

Installed the interior firewall wiring loom. Have to sort a couple of items on it and rewrap some of it.



This weeks tip.

If your doing this in a right hand drive vehicle make two of these.



They are 100mm x 6mm flat bar 190mm long. This is the right hand one the left hand one is similar but the holes are in different places.

They go between the engine mounts and the chassis plates, like this.



This will lift the engine by 10mm (not going to make a great deal of difference to the cog) and ensures clearance of the steering shaft by at least 20mm.
 
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Old Sep 9, 2013 | 03:44 AM
  #89  
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Week begining Monday 2nd September 2013

Completed the insulation for the interior.

Installed the rear piece of carpet.

New windscreen installed.



Rear window reinstalled with new tint.



Cleaned and painted the front diff, waiting for it to dry before installation.

More work on the wiring,

relay mounting board in (still need to wrap the wiring)



new connector for engine sensors and controls completed, just need to connect it all to the original wiring loom. I've also moved the ac compressor control wires to this connector (originally on right hand side of engine.

 
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Old Sep 9, 2013 | 03:53 AM
  #90  
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Looking awesome mate. A mountain of work your doing
 
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