It's all amazing stuff that you're doing.

My only observation mechanically is that the 7.3 looks a bit naked without a turbo on top!

 

Looks awesome mate, great job!

 

I've been thinking about this.

At the moment I don't think that the minister of finance would agree. However it's being built with super from the last two contracts I did working so I've got a few dollars spare in the budget. Depends on what else I need to do.

However I'm going to clearance the body seam on the firewall and remove the piece of the gearbox so I can either go with a Banks or Hypermax turbo later. If I do it will be new as it's really hard to find these in Australia second hand and I really like the look of the Hypermax for ease of diy fit.

 

Can you just mount a single shock on each side?
What is your budget?

I personally couldn't recommend the Bilstein 5100's highly enough for dealing with the weight of the 7.3 (I had them in my SD).
As long as the lengths/mounts will match, go for ones from the front of an 05+ Super Duty truck (the valving is different to suit coils vs. leafs)

 

Ordered the quad Rancho's.

Have them on the back and being adjustable can change them to suit the diesel.

I'm pleased with them on the back and have 4 on the Mav, so will go with them for the moment.

 

So as I've posted otherwise:

Steering Problem

I've got an issue with the steering shaft and exhaust manifold on the right hand side.



A number of solutions arise but most require extensive fabrication or modification, eg moving engine to the left.

Anyway I've narrowed it down to two options.

1. move the steering box forward and slightly down. This will mean a new steering shaft as the box will move 70mm (2 1/4") forward. The rear most lower mounting hole will move to the position of the lower front mounting hole and I'll need to make brackets/mounts for the remainder of the retaining bolts. I can then still use the mechanical fuel pump.

2. leave the steering box where it is and using components from here:

Borgeson

build a steering shaft that will go around the exhaust manifold. This would be a single uni at the cab end and double uni at the box with shaft and support in between.

Either way it means a new shaft, so I'd prefer to leave the box in its normal place which will depend on the double uni being able to fit around the exhaust manifold.

Fortunately I can use the same components for either option.

At this stage I have to wait until the cab is transferred for alignment/length of the shaft so we will have to wait for the final solution then.

 

Week begining Monday 31st December 2012

Cleaned, painted and installed the mid crossmember.

Disconected everything between the chasssis and the cab.

Undid the cab mount bolts, which came out easily, very supprised luckily I don't have to remove the mounts as I've got new ones.

Stripped out entire interior.


Transferred the front driveshaft. No need to lengthen as was originally advised to me. Need to clean it up.


Started fixing the rust in the drivers floor


Already for new sections to be welded in.

Checked to see if the hydraboost would fit.


Doesn't match firewall.


At this stage I'm contemplating drilling new holes as with it mounted lower it will allow me to use a boosted master cylinder on the clutch. I'm interested in this mainly for my partner as she is unable to depress the current clutch, yet can use the clutch in the Mav with no issues. The boosted master cylinder is from a GQ/GU patrol same as the Mav. Which also means I won't delete the vac pump.

And for interest finally have a picture of the original crack.


The bar at the top of the picture is one of the tray mounts. My thoughts on this is that it's in the wrong place. There is no mount at the very front of the tray and this is one is about 450mm (18in) back from the front. So anything forward of this mount (originally the 300lt lpg tank which weighs 150kg empty) is flexing this part downwards all the time. I'm planning having a mount a the very front of the tray and the next one about 200mm back from where this one is. Which is directly above the spring mount and not currently there. All up there will be 4 tray mounts whereas now there is only 3.

 

Week begining Monday 7th January 2013

Happy new year.

Completed the rust repair to the drivers floor and fixed up all extraneous holes in the floor. Painted with POR 15.


Modified firewall to fit both the Hydraboost and the vacuum clutch booster. Rather than redrilling 4 holes to mount the hydraboost lower used a hole saw to make a new center hole. The hydraboost came with an offset fitting for the rod to pedal as well as the straight one so this will match up with the new location.


Test fitting the hydraboost and vacuum booster.


Still need to make an attachment for the clutch pedal to booster rod but will do this once all the other work on the firewall is complete.

I'd even say that it should be possible to mount the clutch booster here with the original brake vacuum booster. You'd need to have the remainder of the vacuum setup from a patrol as well (distribution block, limit valve, canister).

The nissan clutch master should be fine as it appears to be the same 7/8" x 1 1/16" as the clutch master that came with the idi. So hopefully will not have to modify this.

Cleaned lots of interior pieces (brake and clutch pedal, pedal box, etc) to get rid of all the surface rust ready for painting.

 

Week begining Monday 14th January 2013

Finished of the interior of the firewall, cleaned off the old paint and surface rust, patched any extraneous holes, painted with POR 15.


Cleaned and painted the brake, clutch pedals and pedal box.


Fitted the front shock absorbers.



Anyway that's it for about 6 - 8 weeks. I'll be away on and off during this time and will not have any time to do more work. So you'll just have to wait until mid March for the next installment. See you all then.

 

Excellent progress Ross. Enjoying every bit of it m8

 

Hey Ross I have a good second hand turbo and pedastool, standard air box. Also a 3.73 ratio dayna 60 lsd disc brake diff if you are interested. 0429178204 cheers

 

What's the turbo from?

I presume this is a rear diff, I'm happy that the 9 inch will do the job and I'd have to change all wheels and the front hubs if this is not 5 stud.

 

Factory Garrett turbo and the diff is an 8 stud dana 60. I fitted a new 38r and a dana 80 dually rear

 

I presume from your sig that the turbo is from a powerstroke.

Lot's of hassle to add it to an IDI. Powerstroke turbo on idi

If it was a straight bolt on I would be interested.

And I'll stick with the 9in.

Thanks anyway.

 

Awesome project dude, some serious hours left!
I suspect you'll be over it by the time its back on the road.
Really the only way to go, you can then have the confidence of knowing every nut and bolt in your truck!