Project: he351ve turbo
#167
#168
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Wabanaki Indian Territory
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that's just how it was when i put my banks on and didn't have the intermediate pipe to hook into my exhaust w/muffler.
i didn't have the jet sound at idle,it was just slightly off idle though and real loud like that.
though that loud whistle was kinda cool for a few days,it got old really fast cus it's so dang loud.i was happy to get my muffler hooked into the thing lol.
maybe you won't get sick of it,but man it wasn't for me.cus it's loud in the cab too,well least it was on mine,cus it dumped right out the dp of course.
that's a cool looking setup.keeps it all pretty clean and open up top.
i didn't have the jet sound at idle,it was just slightly off idle though and real loud like that.
though that loud whistle was kinda cool for a few days,it got old really fast cus it's so dang loud.i was happy to get my muffler hooked into the thing lol.
maybe you won't get sick of it,but man it wasn't for me.cus it's loud in the cab too,well least it was on mine,cus it dumped right out the dp of course.
that's a cool looking setup.keeps it all pretty clean and open up top.
#169
With the windows up its not bad at all...but windows down....ouch my ears hurt....125mi trip today and whistle was very obnoxious, doing 65-70 mph on freeway 10-14psi cruising 600* and 17-20 on hills at 700* ..... First time it hit 20 I was preparing for the worst. But no dramatic explosions resulted...truck did good! I think I might find a tad looser spring for it tho
#172
that might be the prob. if you can/still have it, try the 5". i have read from the 6.0L guys, that 4" is pretty much pure whistle all the time and 5" is whistle in the beginning, then just sounds mean as hell once you hit 2K rpms. so the 5" might cut down on that annoying cruise whistle.
Holy crap? did really just use annoying and whistle in the same sentence?
Holy crap? did really just use annoying and whistle in the same sentence?
#173
#175
After some miles, this spring is being a bit of a hassle...hard to get it to perform well on freeway and perform well in stop and go situations...thinking of making a new set up. Debating on an electrical device using an Arduino board / potentiometer (FIPL?), or a double acting air cylinder using both boost and drive pressure. Thoughts?
#178
Hey I was lerking on a Other site that has alot of info on DIY turbo controls for the HE351ve Several differant types of controls have been tried by several people. some work kinda like yours others have air cylinder's and springs. Might be worth a look to see what the other guy's have tried. I have determined I don't want to mess with the Turbo because of the control problem. I think I'm going with a HX40W with a 14 or 16 cm housing. Still thinking about it. I don't have a problem with room to put it because of the rear engine MH application.
#179
So how does one build a system that uses both boost and drive pressure? It's hard to think of how they could be used on one system as they are both theoretically opposite of one another.
What is the big issue with using a wastegate actuator? I understand that it's opening is to linear but how so? Does it ultimately open the vanes too soon or late? On that same note, couldn't an actuator be rigged up to an arm (or lever if you will) that has a camming action to make the vane opening more exponential (or fractional whichever is required) to the actuator rod to compensate for it?
What is the big issue with using a wastegate actuator? I understand that it's opening is to linear but how so? Does it ultimately open the vanes too soon or late? On that same note, couldn't an actuator be rigged up to an arm (or lever if you will) that has a camming action to make the vane opening more exponential (or fractional whichever is required) to the actuator rod to compensate for it?
#180
I have seen that a dual air cylinder seems to work well and I plan to do this until I can afford a Fleece kit. I am very intrigued by the Arduino board / potentiometer but I'm not quite sure how it works exactly. I understand that a potentiometer will vary the voltage to the servo, but what is it that is giving the board the values to vary the voltage? Boost or something else? If so how exactly would it work? If you could get that setup to work, that would be the way to go IMO. But the dual air cylinder does work decently though...