Project: he351ve turbo
#226
#228
Can't wait to see what the dyno has to say, and finish tuning it on there. I'm not to worried about gaskets at this point. I have been mashin it every where I go usually shifting at 15psi only thing that bothers me is it sounds like a bit of valve or rocker chatter at 27-3200...idk if that's back pressure related tho or not
#229
How many miles are on it again? Could possibly be floating the valves, at least the intakes. That sounds awesome man... i was just asking about drive pressure as to me that seems like the easiest way to dial in the spring rates. Are those T3 or T4 or some weird variation? I want one bad hehe. What are they rated for flow wise? Oh, do you have an exhaust brake function, and have the vanes stuck at all?
#230
#231
How did you have it rigged up if you dont mind me asking? The brake isn't 100% necessary, but would be nice to have. If you hear about another one of these turbos let me know i would be all over it, as long as the price isnt too crazy. If i find one around here, what would you charge to basically copy your setup? assuming youre willing to do so.
#232
I used a choke cable routed into the cab, pull it and vanes closed.
Cost:
Turbo: whatever you pay
Factory NA y pipe: if you have one or not
Intercooler: $150
R&D intake: pm Racin
Silicone boots+ t bolt clams: 50-75$
2.5" mandrel bend kit (turbo up pipe): 50-75$
3" mandrel bend kit (intercooler pipe): 50-75$
4" downpipe + exhaust and intake: whatever you choose
Electric lift pump: mine was 150$
Fuel pump block off / oil drain: 15$
Oil fittings and line: 50$
Battery cables/ends: 30$
T3 flange / oil drain flange to modify: 20$
Hardware/metal/springs: 25$
Might be forgetting stuff but u get the idea
Then as a bonus you can sell your current kit (mines still availiable pm if interested anyone)
So it adds up, but worth it. If you get a turbo locally make sure you get the cast elbow with it, makes it easy to make a downpipe
Cost:
Turbo: whatever you pay
Factory NA y pipe: if you have one or not
Intercooler: $150
R&D intake: pm Racin
Silicone boots+ t bolt clams: 50-75$
2.5" mandrel bend kit (turbo up pipe): 50-75$
3" mandrel bend kit (intercooler pipe): 50-75$
4" downpipe + exhaust and intake: whatever you choose
Electric lift pump: mine was 150$
Fuel pump block off / oil drain: 15$
Oil fittings and line: 50$
Battery cables/ends: 30$
T3 flange / oil drain flange to modify: 20$
Hardware/metal/springs: 25$
Might be forgetting stuff but u get the idea
Then as a bonus you can sell your current kit (mines still availiable pm if interested anyone)
So it adds up, but worth it. If you get a turbo locally make sure you get the cast elbow with it, makes it easy to make a downpipe
#233
ah thats pretty much exactly what i was thinkin for the brake too..
I think you missunderstand me though, i was meaning for the springs, air ram etc. just to control the vanes. Basically set the turbo up identical to yours was what i was asking, not the whole kit. Judging by how youre talkin, i wonder how hard it would be to adapt it to my current, er.. "setup"
I think you missunderstand me though, i was meaning for the springs, air ram etc. just to control the vanes. Basically set the turbo up identical to yours was what i was asking, not the whole kit. Judging by how youre talkin, i wonder how hard it would be to adapt it to my current, er.. "setup"
#234
Oh I see, it's easy, I just traced the electrical gear box bolt pattern and bolted it up to the housing. Welded basically a arm out to bolt an eyebolt to, and welded a longer arm at a angle to the Vgt lever then bolted a spring to it. And welded a nut on each side to limit travel with a bolt..easy...now the electrical ram with the Arduino board I'm working on is a different story.