so now you are converted to what im saying?
once again I really dont know. I could suggest that they are using the batteries as a cap to prevent a volt spkie. I like the logic but not 100% certin

 

I see it, but I don't like it.

Is it possible to re-run that with an ammeter clamp? I do not currently have access to one...

Josh

 

you are misinformed.

if i clamp at the output of the alternator, i get the flow
from the alternator to the system, in amps.

if i clamp on the cable between the starter motor and the
main fuse block, i get the current flow going only to the
main fuse block, which is a composite of alternator AND
battery current. the batteries will provide the current flow
that the alternator does not. i will not show cranking current.

if i clamp on the positive cable from the batteries to the starter
motor lug, i get current flow from the batteries to both the
main fuse block, and the starter motor. i also get the charging
rate back to the batteries from the alternator.

none of these values will equal each other, therefore your claim
that "you can clamp anywhere" is without merit.
and i didn't have to read the whole PDF to figure that out.

you seem to have two needs in most of what you have posted here;

1. to have utter and total correctness, or more correctness than anyone else.
2. to be as contrary as you possibly can be

i am not going to debate ohm's law with you, one formula at a
time, nor am i going to respond to any of your posts after this one.
i am going to suggest that you mount your throne in your little corner
of the internet, secure in the knowledge that you have quashed riffraff
who are misinformed such as myself, and any other folks you disagree
with.

and do have a nice day.

cheers.

 

one of the few tools i dont own. as a volt meter seems to do the trick for my needs.

 

it's a convenient thing to have, a used one will getcha there.
knowing how much current is flowing makes diagnosing batteries
and such easier... but like you said, if you needed one, you'd have
one by now....

 

Are both batteries on an e-series down on the frame?

 

True statement, if the voltage regulator failed and tried to raise the system voltage, the batteries would limit the rise in voltage.

 

yeah, side by side in separate buckets outside the frame rail,
just ahead of the right rear wheel.

and pulling the batteries out is somewhat of a pain. i use a floor jack,
and it's 90 minutes of snarking to get them out and changed.

however, i got the alternator changed today.... felt crummy enough
that i didn't want to go off to work, so went over to my mechanics,
we had lunch, and then changed it.

took a good look at michell on demand at the wiring schematic,
and discovered this about the E series wiring loom....

the alternator power lead is #6 copper. so is the power lead to
the main fuse panel. the alternator has two #12 fusible links,
and the main power panel has one fusible link, to protect the
wiring loom....

now, that means that if i have a wire going from the alternator
output over to the main power panel, the alternator charging
output would be distributed into the 12 volt bus over TWO
#6 copper wires, and that gives me almost the same cross
sectional area as #1. which is the size of the main wiring
on the batteries.

and, 'cause the jumper lead is feeding the main fuse block
directly, that means the only load on those two #6 wires is
charging the batteries.

that's good enough for this kid. i added a jumper from the
alternator to the main fuse block binding post, and put it all
back together.

started it up, it was cold enough to pull in the glow plugs,
and with the glow plugs running, idling, instead of a 80 amp
discharge, i had 125 amps charging the batteries.

system voltage went from 13.2 idling, to 14.5~14.6.

i'll do a stone cold start in the morning, and see how it does.

 

I am behind the curve here, but cant you just look at the Bat Voltage on the SG II when you crank the truck and see it go from 12.xx to 13.xx when the alt starts charging?

 

So you had charging from the get go huh? And the whatchmacallit wasn't holding the alternator back until the GP cycled off.



Josh

 

I was thinking the same thing...

 

Yes^^^

Iv watched mine for almost 2 years now with the SGII and can see when the alt kicks on and starts charging

you can also tell when its done charging at least with my DC Power alt

it will charge in the 14.0-14.5volts range

nthen when charged it will hang in the 13.3-13,8volts range

 

Cheezit - thanks for the post!! Sets a few things straight! Mine did the same thing with the OEM alternator (and so did D Chamberlains even though it was called hearsay spewed, uninformed, asinine, misunderstood, etc.......). That being said, my DCPower one does not do it (as I posted in a previous thread). The DCPower one is charging immediately.

 

politely, but VERY well said!

 

Guess I better watch the Vidio cheezit made

My DC acts the same as the OEM One I had its a 190amp but takes a minute or 2 before it will jump to that 14.0+ volts and charge

So I am Lost Mark No worries its easy to Lose Me LOL

is it a 250 or 270 amp DC Thing????