. Turned on a/c to high, headlights, seat heaters & inverter with 2 hair dryers loading the alternator to the max
start up current draws......
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I do not have dual alternators and the alternator started charging immediately.
The excite wire was initiated once the engine started. Not hard to understand.
Might help the read the entire PDF instead of just the first sentence too to understand what Ford is saying about alternator operation.
The excite wire was initiated once the engine started. Not hard to understand.
Might help the read the entire PDF instead of just the first sentence too to understand what Ford is saying about alternator operation.
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Here is the relevent part of the PDF as posted https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post12261348
Background:
The 6.0L Diesel engine Powertrain Control Module (PCM) will randomly select only one of the alternators to be active when the glow plugs are active. There is no way to tell the PCM that one of the alternators has been removed, so the removed alternator may be selected by the PCM. The lack of a working alternator during glow plug activation would result in discharged batteries.
For the reading disabled, this the procedure to eliminate 1 alternator out of the dual alternator set-up. Or put simply, turning a dual alternator into a single alternator.
And notice:
"The lack of a working alternator during glow plug activation would result in discharged batteries. "
Interesting choice of words and implies a functioning alternator is mandatory after starting the engine. Not, 30 seconds later or 2 minutes later or whatever.
What I believe is occuring is most everyone is not understanding the 6G is a slow start alternator. It isn't an INSTANT ON like the 3G etc. It takes it's time to ramp up to operating voltage.
Josh
Background:
The 6.0L Diesel engine Powertrain Control Module (PCM) will randomly select only one of the alternators to be active when the glow plugs are active. There is no way to tell the PCM that one of the alternators has been removed, so the removed alternator may be selected by the PCM. The lack of a working alternator during glow plug activation would result in discharged batteries.
For the reading disabled, this the procedure to eliminate 1 alternator out of the dual alternator set-up. Or put simply, turning a dual alternator into a single alternator.
And notice:
"The lack of a working alternator during glow plug activation would result in discharged batteries. "
Interesting choice of words and implies a functioning alternator is mandatory after starting the engine. Not, 30 seconds later or 2 minutes later or whatever.
What I believe is occuring is most everyone is not understanding the 6G is a slow start alternator. It isn't an INSTANT ON like the 3G etc. It takes it's time to ramp up to operating voltage.
Josh
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Josh
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From: N. Fort Worth, tx
I see you have much more knowledge then I do on this matter.
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The main charge wire.
The source or "A" wire
The excite or "I" wire.
Main and "A" are always hot.
Excite or "I" wire is switched on. If "I" is exited the alternator is charging. How well depends on many factors, but there is no "time-out" occurring and goes against what I have observed and what I am reading from Ford.
Do you have something in writing that proves otherwise?
Josh
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The temprature has a lot to do with the cranking amps. With the temp around 0, i would think the cold cranking amps would be close to 1000 amps. When i saturated my alternator, i noticed the voltage began to fall to 12 volts. The top inside winding of the alternator was at 280 degrees fahrenheit!
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I have posted up lots of information - from Ford. Do a search if you are interested. It is in the PC/ED manual IIRC - and yes, I understand the wiring of the alternator. BTW - the I circuit serves two purposes - not just to excite the alternator, but to set a gauge panel light when appropriate.
You can start with this thread ...
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...couple-of.html
You can start with this thread ...
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...couple-of.html
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From: N. Fort Worth, tx
both wires are not always hot either. one is hot all times the other is hot only koeo and koer.
if they were both hot at all time you would have other issues like a voltage draw giving you dead battereis.
also when adding or deleting an alternator there is a function that needs to be changed with the ids.
also this is very much tied into the gpcm timer. do your reading on that.
next go stright to the batter and see what the output is at b+. that will provide the awnser.
This is the same basic setup used on the 7.3 as well.
if they were both hot at all time you would have other issues like a voltage draw giving you dead battereis.
also when adding or deleting an alternator there is a function that needs to be changed with the ids.
also this is very much tied into the gpcm timer. do your reading on that.
next go stright to the batter and see what the output is at b+. that will provide the awnser.
This is the same basic setup used on the 7.3 as well.
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both wires are not always hot either. one is hot all times the other is hot only koeo and koer.
if they were both hot at all time you would have other issues like a voltage draw giving you dead battereis.
also when adding or deleting an alternator there is a function that needs to be changed with the ids.
also this is very much tied into the gpcm timer. do your reading on that.
next go stright to the batter and see what the output is at b+. that will provide the awnser.
This is the same basic setup used on the 7.3 as well.
if they were both hot at all time you would have other issues like a voltage draw giving you dead battereis.
also when adding or deleting an alternator there is a function that needs to be changed with the ids.
also this is very much tied into the gpcm timer. do your reading on that.
next go stright to the batter and see what the output is at b+. that will provide the awnser.
This is the same basic setup used on the 7.3 as well.
Josh
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I just read the link/post that mark shared and it looks like the glow plugs cycle depending on the eot for about 2 min, then the alt kicks in to charge up the batteries. The 6.0 manual & circuit diagram were not updated!
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I have posted up lots of information - from Ford. Do a search if you are interested. It is in the PC/ED manual IIRC - and yes, I understand the wiring of the alternator. BTW - the I circuit serves two purposes - not just to excite the alternator, but to set a gauge panel light when appropriate.
You can start with this thread ...
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...couple-of.html
You can start with this thread ...
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...couple-of.html
These PDF's back up what I am saying... the "I" wire is excited at Key-on and the alternator begins charging immediately.
As I said I just tested this out this morning and this afternoon.
Where is a document of this supposed HEC nonesense? A lot of hearsay is spewed after Post #20.
Josh
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https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ml#post9561590
These PDF's back up what I am saying... the "I" wire is excited at Key-on and the alternator begins charging immediately.
As I said I just tested this out this morning and this afternoon.
Where is a document of this supposed HEC nonesense? A lot of hearsay is spewed after Post #20.
Josh
These PDF's back up what I am saying... the "I" wire is excited at Key-on and the alternator begins charging immediately.
As I said I just tested this out this morning and this afternoon.
Where is a document of this supposed HEC nonesense? A lot of hearsay is spewed after Post #20.
Josh
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The point is that three people have used clamp-on ammeters to show that the alternator is not producing at first. A very competent Ford Tech says this also. You claim otherwise. Basically you are saying that 4 people don't know what they are talking about and/or don't know how to use a clamp on ammeter. Maybe it is true, maybe not. I suggest folks just find a way to do the test on the B+ circuit. That is the proof. As for me, I don't mind being proven wrong, I just would like to see the proper test done.