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with bts there is some smoke in 100 but not much. black smoke is money running out the tail pipe.
Brain said there is no gain in the 120 stock injectors the 100 is all they can do.
I went with the F6 because I can use my netbook to interface with the tuner. I get all my tunes emailed to me when I add one or need them changed. I am getting ready to upgrade my injectors/turbo and my tunes have to be changed. I will be replacing my injectors, then hooking up my netbook to insert the tunes that were emailed to me in advance - allowing me to do the whole thing in one shot without waiting for an updated chip to arrive in the snail mail.
Tunes can actually help the transmission, if done correctly. Stock tunes are for a comfortable ride, but this is not always best for the transmission. Look at the old practice of putting in a shift kit to firm up the shifts for towing. This can be done with tuning (to a degree). It's still best to have a better valve body and torque converter than the stock 4R100... in order to take what a chipped 7.3L can dish out. I know almost nothing about transmissions, but I've had my learning curve bent skyward when I blew my old one up before chipping.
There is a lot of preperation that really should be in place before considering any chip. Gauges! OMG Gauges! You won't find anybody here that disagrees with this... and for many reasons. I found a lot of things to be very tired on my truck at 220K (I now have 260K) and I fixed them all. Just getting the truck to 100% of it's former self gave me a real bump in performance and fuel economy. The last link in my signature will have plenty of tips on how to do this. Pre-turbo exhaust leaks are common at your odo reading, air gets in the fuel (Hutch mod in my sig), stock air intake just handles stock boost, the injector connectors can arc because of a flaw in the design (search 50-cent mod), etc....
In summation: Getting the truck to 100% (with aid from the FTE brotherhood - to keep it inexpensive), adding gauges, and making sure the transmission will handle it has really helped me to coax the beast to awaken - while giving me excellent economy. Here is my trip meter and fuel gauge before a fill-up.
I've used DP Tuner along with several other tuners. My truck alway ran the best and made the most power with DP Tunes. I found Jody the easiest to work with, get tunning changes and upgrades were seamless.
i think you guys misunderstood that smoke post of mine. when i said the 120 tune only makes black smoke, i meant i do not use it. i have found that the 80 econo tune gives me better performance, better power, and better 1/4 mile times than the 120 tune.
I went with the F6 because I can use my netbook to interface with the tuner. I get all my tunes emailed to me when I add one or need them changed. I am getting ready to upgrade my injectors/turbo and my tunes have to be changed. I will be replacing my injectors, then hooking up my netbook to insert the tunes that were emailed to me in advance - allowing me to do the whole thing in one shot without waiting for an updated chip to arrive in the snail mail.
Tunes can actually help the transmission, if done correctly. Stock tunes are for a comfortable ride, but this is not always best for the transmission. Look at the old practice of putting in a shift kit to firm up the shifts for towing. This can be done with tuning (to a degree). It's still best to have a better valve body and torque converter than the stock 4R100... in order to take what a chipped 7.3L can dish out. I know almost nothing about transmissions, but I've had my learning curve bent skyward when I blew my old one up before chipping.
There is a lot of preperation that really should be in place before considering any chip. Gauges! OMG Gauges! You won't find anybody here that disagrees with this... and for many reasons. I found a lot of things to be very tired on my truck at 220K (I now have 260K) and I fixed them all. Just getting the truck to 100% of it's former self gave me a real bump in performance and fuel economy. The last link in my signature will have plenty of tips on how to do this. Pre-turbo exhaust leaks are common at your odo reading, air gets in the fuel (Hutch mod in my sig), stock air intake just handles stock boost, the injector connectors can arc because of a flaw in the design (search 50-cent mod), etc....
In summation: Getting the truck to 100% (with aid from the FTE brotherhood - to keep it inexpensive), adding gauges, and making sure the transmission will handle it has really helped me to coax the beast to awaken - while giving me excellent economy. Here is my trip meter and fuel gauge before a fill-up.
That is some great advice! That is what I will do in the meantime. I'll open 'er up (intake and exhaust) and get everything running 100% before doing anything crazy. She was a concrete truck so she has had 288k miles worth of towing and hauling. I just replaced the sway bar bushings, CPS, Injector Pressure Regulator, the hazard relay. I still need the transmission selecter indicator and to fix the horn and windshield wiper problem! I also found that the hubs were dead (the stock ones) so I'm gonna get her running and enjoy her for a while! Thanks to everyone for your fantastic input! I love this forum!
i think you guys misunderstood that smoke post of mine. when i said the 120 tune only makes black smoke, i meant i do not use it. i have found that the 80 econo tune gives me better performance, better power, and better 1/4 mile times than the 120 tune.
I understood that. I just meant that for a stock truck that cant even keep up with the airflow that the tuner requires, that black smoke is, just as was said before, money out the exhaust. I'm sure that a more modified truck could handle the 120 tune smokeless!
with a full 4 inch intake tube and 12 inch long, 8 inch across circular air filter, it is definitely not starving for air.
it is the nature of the extreme tune in a truck that has not been live tuned.
i would like to switch over to the F-6 chip, and get live tuned, but with my current health and work conditions money is pretty tight.
with a full 4 inch intake tube and 12 inch long, 8 inch across circular air filter, it is definitely not starving for air.
it is the nature of the extreme tune in a truck that has not been live tuned.
i would like to switch over to the F-6 chip, and get live tuned, but with my current health and work conditions money is pretty tight.
I'm not talking about your truck in particular! I'm just saying in general. By the way, what brand and type is your intake?
i use a 6637 filter hooked up to the stock intake tube.
i cant see spending $300 for a "cold air intake kit" to do the same thing i did for $29, and i get better air intake and filtering than the junk K&N filters the kits give
i use a 6637 filter hooked up to the stock intake tube.
i cant see spending $300 for a "cold air intake kit" to do the same thing i did for $29, and i get better air intake and filtering than the junk K&N filters the kits give
Yet another reason why this forum is great! A better truck for less money! Thanks for the tip! This leaves quite a bit of money for other goodies!
yup. with the money you save by buying the 6637 from clay and using a piece of 4 inch schedule 40 PVC to hook it to the stock intake hose, that leaves you with close to 3/4 of the price of the auto enginuity already saved.
It's a 100 bucks to unlock it. When you hook it to the next truck it will VIN lock again so you can't go back to the first truck and change the tune
I had the price wrong. From there site.
Originally Posted by Superchips
.......the ability to tune a second vehicle from the same OEM family on one tuner with our Multivin application. The second vehicle tuning is available exclusively through Superchips internet update store**.
** The Multivin feature currently covers Ford and General Motors applications for an additional charge of $199.