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Which builder kit did you buy? they have quite a few 3" versions of the 'ultimate' kit with different radius bends and in different materials. I want to do this but don't have the knowhow or equipment to weld aluminum, stainless, etc., can you use the mild steel or will it rust out?
Also, is your CDR routed into the turbo? The Banks kit does this and I'm thinking it will foul the IC with oil. My PSD unit has some oil dripping out of it, and seems like I read that oil residue reduces heat exchange, and it's a good idea to dump the crank case vapors with a road draft tube and keep that crap out of your intercooler. Just wondering what other folks are doing with their CDR's when they intercool.
got the uppipe sealed a bit better. 5th gear and i floor it..... cant get it to 1000* egt now....gets to 10 psi (slower than before) and the boot from the turbo compressor to charge pipe keeps popping off at 10 psi..........
how can i fix this? tried multiple times with different torques on the t-bolt clamp and no luck...scared the chit outta me when it happened the first time, loud POP!
how can i fix this? tried multiple times with different torques on the t-bolt clamp and no luck...scared the chit outta me when it happened the first time, loud POP!
Originally Posted by 88 Ford IDI
Try using T-bolt style clamps if you don't have them already. They are better than worm drive. It should help a bit...
Brandon, I can turn a bead on the end of the pipe for you, so the pipe doesnt pop off... The t-clamp alone wont do it...
Either that or you can run a weld bead... One of my pipes has a weld bead though, and sometimes it pops off at 20psi, even with a T-bar... The bead is the pro way to go...
another home brew solution is to try putting some hair spray on both the inside of the coupler and on the turbo put it together when a little wet still tighten it up and let it dry up.
i have heard that one used in the DSM world
Rob
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