Intercooler installation
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 225
Likes: 2
A bead would be best but in the mean time Sand the area with coarse sand paper clean thoughly with brake cleaner on both the metal and the rubber hose, coat with hair spray and install and tighten clamp. run engine to allow everything to warm up and retorque clamp after warmed. It will hold much better. But like stated before a bead would be best.
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,851
Likes: 3
From: Buckley, WA
I sanded the surfaces, cleaned them, hair spray applied, and it appears to hold better already. Before as I would tighten it the boot would just keep sliding up it. Now it didn't slide at all as I torqued it. We shall see tonight if it holds
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 225
Likes: 2
Should hold better, mine holds past 12 lbs easily and I dont even have any hairspray on it. The key is a clean rough surface for the rubber to contact so it has something to grip to if you dont have a lip to help it hold.
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,851
Likes: 3
From: Buckley, WA
What do you mean? When yours popped a boot? Or other reason? When mine pop I just keep going LOL intake whistle sounds mean just flowing openly LOL
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 225
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Was cruising down the freeway just about to Sioux Falls, SD When a loud noise in the engine then bang bang bang ect. shut off truck coasted to side of road restarted breifly to hear where it was coming from. Noise was under drivers side valve cover. Tore truck apart along side the road. When I got the valve cover off found # 8 cly had shoved the ex push rod thru the rocker. Pulled rocker off and the spring and keeper still attached came off in my hands. A brand new ex valve broke off at the tip by the keeper sending the valve into the piston at 75 mph then when the piston tried to shove it back thru the head pushed it thru the rocker arm and there I sat. Just got home a couple hours ago and have started taking it apart so i can pull the motor and do it all again. Hopefully the parts company will stand behind part of it but you know how that goes.
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,851
Likes: 3
From: Buckley, WA
Update: after spending few hours on the freeway the IC made a big difference. Cruising at 5th gear 2100rpm 4psi 550-600egt on flats, while climbing hills in 5th at around 2400rpm EGTs seemed to be around 800 with 7psi, then when passing and getting on it highest egt was 950-1000 at 12psi, (going to fast at that point had to back out)
Was excited to see what the dyno was going to say this weekend but my radiator gave me some issues....few hours later and some JB later, I got that fixed. Still no report on MPG tho, however I imagine it will be higher? I'll know for sure this up coming week as I take the 91 over to Idaho and back.....so I'll update after that
Was excited to see what the dyno was going to say this weekend but my radiator gave me some issues....few hours later and some JB later, I got that fixed. Still no report on MPG tho, however I imagine it will be higher? I'll know for sure this up coming week as I take the 91 over to Idaho and back.....so I'll update after that
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,941
Likes: 30
From: Maple Valley, WA
Need to adjust your WG, its still seeing like 15psi pre-IC, thats why you are seeing the boost drop. Where is your gauge hooked to?
Id crank your WG, and I bet youll really feel a difference...
Id crank your WG, and I bet youll really feel a difference...
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,851
Likes: 3
From: Buckley, WA
I don't have a WG...it's welded shut and I put pipe plug in hole. It doesn't really smoke much anymore unless it bogged. I get my reading in elbow above intake. I'll run another boost guage prior to IC