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Coolant Additive

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Old Jul 21, 2012 | 08:26 PM
  #1  
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Coolant Additive

I did a coolant flush at sears but they didn't add the additive. So now i have to how much and where do I get it?
 
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Old Jul 21, 2012 | 10:35 PM
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well im not sure what additive you referring to. i think your concern should be - did they use the correct antifreeze after the flush? what color is it?
 
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Old Jul 21, 2012 | 10:50 PM
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green, I know its a 70/30 mix
 
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Old Jul 21, 2012 | 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by counciller
well im not sure what additive you referring to. i think your concern should be - did they use the correct antifreeze after the flush? what color is it?
^----------What he said!
 
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Old Jul 21, 2012 | 11:39 PM
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Well I guess someone is going to
be doing a 2nd flush
The stuff is Restore & Restore+
If your deltas are ok then you may be able to just
do a distilled water flush till clean return
and fresh ford gold coolant. Check the tech folder
there is a good how to in there.

Sean
 
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Old Jul 21, 2012 | 11:42 PM
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Yeah, the additive you need now is a whole bunch of distilled water and some gold coolant.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2012 | 01:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Regulator1988
I did a coolant flush at sears but they didn't add the additive. So now i have to how much and where do I get it?
Just so you know... Sears did NOT use the proper coolant for 6.0L PSD motor (regardless of what year truck it is)!!!

The proper coolant would be the Ford Premium Gold coolant (only) or a coolant brand that meets the same spec (check you owner's manual and compare when looking or shopping).

On a regular basis, the 6.0L motor does NOT take any additives... there are some cleanes and such that are used if your system is bad... but it takes a lot of flushing to get the cleaning agents out after putting in and driving for a bit to get it hot and circulate it around.

Unlike the 7.3L PSG motor, which takes an additive in the coolant, the 6.0L does not... and can only use the Ford Prem Gold coolant or equivalant.... so now all you can do is flush the heck out of the system to get rid of all traces of the freen coolant (if you have an Excursion with rear heat/AC, turn it on to heat and make sure your main heater is on)... you need to get rid of green coolant (not compatible with Gold coolant).

As well, you mentioned that they did a 70/30 mixture of coolant... which again is wrong.... you system uses 50/50 with a max of 60% coolant!!!! You and them need to read your manual and know what to use and what NOT to use in your 6.0L motor.

In the short term, you have not hurt your motor... but green coolant does not have the anti-cavitation protection and silicates in the coolant that your motor requires for protection.

Good luck,
 
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Old Jul 22, 2012 | 07:28 AM
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Supplemental Coolant Addatives (SCA's) are commonly put inside coolant system filters on Diesel engines. When the filter is changed the addatives replenish the chemicals in the mix that have been depleted over time. This is a common plan for large capacity systems where only particular chemicals are depleted and the base fluid is still servicable, like industrial applications and even boilers that heat large buildings etc. The coolant in our 6.0's is simply exchanged just like automotive coolant. The fresh coolant has the proper amount of Addatives right out of the bottle.
The green coolant is NOT the proper stuff for your truck. It has a large dose of silicates that "jell" in the high temps of your EGR cooler. This "jell" can circulate through the cooling system and collect more jell (like a snowball) until it is too large to fit through the passages of your oil cooler where it sticks in the coolant passages. The resulting restriction reduces coolant folw to the EGR cooler (the next device in the coolant circuit) causing IT to overheat and fail. When the EGR cooler fails it usually leaks coolant into the EGR passages in the intake and past the EGR valve into the combustion chamber where it flashes to steam causing very high pressures that can stretch the cylinder head mounting bolts and allow the head gaskets to leak. An important step in avoiding this expensive repair is Regularly servicing the cooling system.
You did good to take it in for service, unfortunately they put the wrong stuff in it. The Ford Gold coolant is a low silicate formula recommended for your truck. The other option is any brand of Extended Life Coolant (ELC) that is labeled as meeting the CAT EC-1 specification. These coolant are silicate free and are usually (but not always) red. Either of these two options will work for you but the green stuff should be removed ASAP.

Here is an article without all the technical talk, outlining the history of coolant fluid if you are interested. Good luck with your truck!:

The green-dyed EG "conventional" coolant we all know and love has an
additive package based around a silicate (and sometimes also phosphate)
based anti-corrosion additive. *It's well-established and does a good job.
It can go 5 years/50K miles without worry.

A few years ago, someone thought a long-life coolant (original plan: life
of vehicle) would be a Good Thing. *This lead to Organic Acid Technology
coolant (OAT), which is marketed as "DexCool" by GM and has been
factory-fill in their products (except C4 Corvette -- not sure about C5
Corvette) since 1995. *It's the orange or orangy-red stuff. *Someone along
the line decided the word "acid" was a Bad Thing to try to sell, so OAT was
recursively changed to Organic Additive Technology. *It can go 5 years/100K
or 150K miles -- provided it's not mixed with other coolant. *OAT has less
cavitation resistance than silicate-based coolant, and can attack certain
sealing materials, so it's not a good idea to convert a green-coolant car
over to OAT unless the manufacturer says it's okay. *OAT also has a
tendency to stain translucent plastics in things like overflow bottles and
pressurized de-gas bottles with a funky brown crud. *Oh, and OAT from one
manufacturer isn't necessarily compatible with OAT from a different
manufacturer. *Texaco is GM's OEM supplier and is licensed to use GM's
"DexCool" trademark on their aftermarket packaging. *I'm not aware of any
other company being licensed to do so.

Many European automakers use a hybrid of OAT -- HOAT (Hybrid Organic
Additive Technology -- clever, huh?), which is the OAT package with a small
amount of silicates added to increase the cavitation resistance and make it
less aggressive against those seals and gaskets. *This is often pale yellow
in color. *DaimlerChrysler is using it in several car lines now, too,
notably the LH sedans and the new minivans (It's possible the
Sebring/Stratus twins now use it -- I don't have that handy at the
present). *This stuff seems to offer pretty much the best of both worlds --
it's not quite as long-lived as straight OAT, but it is much better behaved
in operation than OAT, much like conventional coolant.

Note that these three different additive packages are not really
cross-compatible. *No, they won't eat the insides of your radiator if you
mix a little of one in with another in a pinch, but you'll be better to get
the system flushed out and a fresh mix of 50/50 whatever your car needs put
back into it.

Here's a link to the full article:
Cooling Fluids
 
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Old Jul 22, 2012 | 08:21 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by Regulator1988
green, I know its a 70/30 mix


Dooohhh!! Time for another coolant flush.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2012 | 10:46 AM
  #10  
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either ford gold coolant, an ELC or zerex g-05. these are the 3 tat are compatible for our powerstrokes.

if i tink ur talking bout the additive, then yes. ford makes one. comes in a little bottle. it's a coolant additive. it's the motorcraft vc-8 cooling system additive. ur coolant should be tested at every 3rd oil change to determine if u need to add some of tat to ur cooling system or not. this additive helps maintain the nitrite concentration level in ur coolant.

hope tis helps.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2012 | 01:28 PM
  #11  
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Ok guys sears is putting the right stuff in there for free
 
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Old Jul 22, 2012 | 01:35 PM
  #12  
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Good deal. Sounds like a "stand up" shop that just wasn't aware.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2012 | 02:42 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Regulator1988
Ok guys sears is putting the right stuff in there for free
Are they flushing... and if so... can you watch to emsure 100% of the old/green coolant is removed? Did they turn the heater controls on and allow the heater core to flush as well?

OK to use regular tap water.. but distilled is better... just changed/flush every 50,000 miles (like I do) and I never worry about it nor have I had any problems.

The 6.0L motor holds about 3.5 - 3.7 gallons of coolant... so that should be the amount they should add (the balance of the capacity is water).

If they did not use at least 3.5 gallons... then you do not have the proper 50/50 mixture of water and coolant in your system.

Check your owner's manual for total cooling capcity for a 6.0L motor... divide this number by 2 and this is how many quarts (convert to gallons) you need in your truck.

Sears screwed up once, no reason not to be on them to ensure they don't do it again!!!
 
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Old Jul 22, 2012 | 02:42 PM
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Cool. Tat sounds better.
 
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