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Old Jul 16, 2012 | 08:25 AM
  #121  
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Can't blame me on that one either. I put the motor together, you struck the deal with Nick to stick it in your ho. Had you left it at my house it would have been in and running correctly. Next time, you will learn why I do all my motor work at my house
 
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Old Jul 16, 2012 | 08:29 PM
  #122  
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Yep, cuz nothing has ever gone wrong with your motors... Say a cracked block, melted piston or anything of the sort....
 
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Old Jul 16, 2012 | 09:48 PM
  #123  
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Originally Posted by kjett
Next time, you will learn why I do all my motor work at my house
Under the shade tree in your driveway?


 
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Old Jul 16, 2012 | 11:05 PM
  #124  
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Originally Posted by hav24wheel
Yep, cuz nothing has ever gone wrong with your motors... Say a cracked block, melted piston or anything of the sort....
That happed due to too much nitrous and a fuel pump that didn't keep up. On the motor it ran fine for the last 3 years. I'll take full responsibility for that happening. I have been turning my nitrous setup up gradually for the last year and I hit the ceiling without upgrading the dedicated nitrous fuel pump.

Unlike paul that trys to blame me for him not knowing how to work on his own crap. The motor that is currently in his bronco ran fine in my ranger before I built the 466. I believe it's having issues due to a poor tune up he did which now acts like it burnt a valve or ring set. Prior to that the original motor I put together for him would have been fine if he knew how to break in a motor properly and didn't wipe the cam. No different if he bought a crate motor, it's not covered under any warranty if the installer screws with it.

Long story short, is friends are friends, and business is business. I'm building another motor for my team mate and a good friend. The deal is I build it, I start it, break it in and tune it solely. If he tweaks or changes anything and something happens, it's on him. Considering he put together the last 2 motors and they both blew up, I had to make that stipulation as I have grown tired of the bs.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2012 | 11:07 PM
  #125  
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Originally Posted by alpha/omega
Under the shade tree in your driveway?



Actually, lately it's been in a nice climate controlled garage to pull the motor then over to a climate controlled machine shop where I've been working on some "stuff"
 
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Old Jul 16, 2012 | 11:58 PM
  #126  
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Don't get your panties in a bunch, I'm just ****in with you. You'd know if I actually had an issue with you over the motor. :flip
 
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Old Jul 17, 2012 | 12:01 AM
  #127  
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Originally Posted by captain p4
Don't get your panties in a bunch, I'm just ****in with you.
Maybe, but your f'n is making people think I can't build a motor and word spreads. Not cool when I use the few motors I put together to help pay for my upgrades.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2012 | 12:04 AM
  #128  
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Your work will speak for itself.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2012 | 12:13 AM
  #129  
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It does on the other 2 race trucks I compete against and will soon be in Jeff's and my new custom stroker setup that will keep me under 500ci
 
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Old Jul 17, 2012 | 12:23 AM
  #130  
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I'm having sort of the same problem. 87 F250 with a 460. New rebuilt motor about 600 miles on it. New fan clutch,t stat (180), both hoses,water pump..using the old radiator as I had no problems. Runs cool as a cucumber on the highway ( stays around 180-190 ish). Shroud is good and the stock mech fan seems fine. problem I have is as soon as i hit the city i.e. stop lights ..the temp climbs to 220 or so and i shut it down before it overheats. Makes me nervous as hell. .. I'm guessing the rad may be a bit plugged at this point...don't know..driving me nuts .....
 
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Old Jul 17, 2012 | 12:32 AM
  #131  
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You running a 50/50 mix? You sure you got all the air bubbles out? If you put your hand in front of the the radiator at idle, you should feel the fan drawing air in and through. Does it cool back down once you get out of the lights and moving again?
 
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Old Jul 17, 2012 | 01:08 AM
  #132  
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Yup, runnin 50/50...cools down as soon as i get back on the freeway.. thougth at one point I may have put the fan on bass ackwards but thats not the case. This what is think at this point.. I think the rad is pumping just enough coolant through it along with the airflow across the radiator to keep the eng cool while on the highway, soon as I hit the lights(metallica ..sorry.. as soon as I hit the lights, theres no airflow across the rad and the rad itself is only flowing a small amount because of a blockage or something. I think at this point I should have it rod' out. As far as air bubbles, I couldn,t say if I have gotten them out or not. I did put a new cap and the upper hose on tonight and it ran way cool for an hour on the road..once at idle it went from 175 to 200 in about 5 minutes.Temp was 95 outside and it gets to 106 this week..I haul my horses with this so I need a good fix ..Thanks for any more input that you may have..Dave
 
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Old Jul 17, 2012 | 06:39 AM
  #133  
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Fan clutch. Do you ever hear it fully enguage? (sould sound like a airplane under the hood. Lol)

I'd say the issue is a air flow issue through the radiator.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2012 | 05:16 PM
  #134  
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Well, I went ahead and put a rigid fan on it instead of the flex fan that I did have and I had to drill out the pilot hole to fit my 460 water pump since it was originally for my 400, and that along with the blue Devil I used to seal the head really seem to make a difference with the temperature of the motor.

The fan is a seven blade rigid and it really pulls some air.

It has no thermostat but is running around 180-190 so I figure it's probably good now.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2012 | 05:27 PM
  #135  
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Look on the bright side....

Keep dicking around with it and it will be winter before you know it.
 
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