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Old Jul 2, 2012 | 06:41 PM
  #46  
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From: concord ca
Originally Posted by thekingofcows
I was talking to a fellow today who has built a lot of 460's over the years, and is very savvy on them. He claims that when you bore one 60 over, you're asking for overheating problems. What does that sound like to ya'll?
wow i all most bought a truck that had a 460 bord 60 but it was fishy and i glad i dint buy it
 
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Old Jul 2, 2012 | 09:03 PM
  #47  
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Sounds like hes not very savy.


Most blocks will go .080 but its best to have it sonic checked. I wouldnt think twice about boring one .060.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2012 | 09:05 PM
  #48  
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What does boring a block .060 over have anything to do with overheating? If the machine work is done properly and all of the clearances are correct for the weight of oil you plan on using (before someone asks, yes the clearances for 20w50 are different than the clearances needed for 10w30 if you want your stuff to run right!), and you put a good mix of antifreeze and water for your street motor, and you have a good functioning cooling system, and you time the motor properly, then it doesn't matter if it's stock bore or .060 overbore.

I'd shy away from any advice that guy would give...
 
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Old Jul 2, 2012 | 09:12 PM
  #49  
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Sounds like hes not very savy.


Most blocks will go .080 but its best to have it sonic checked. I wouldnt think twice about boring one .060.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2012 | 09:21 PM
  #50  
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Hmmm....super double post fail.


There have been quite a few cooling issue threads over the past couple years that always results in the op becoming pissed off when hes told his tune is the culprit. They adamantly deny that it could even slightly be the problem and they begin to throw money at the radiator and water pump instead of a timing light and a card of jets.


If there are two engines that should have cooling issues its Karl and myself and we dont. 190* on mine pass after pass and id be willing to bet Karls is under 200* all day long also.

There is absolutely no reason a stock water pump, mechanical fan and stock radiator will not keep EVERY 300-6, 302, 351, FE or 460+ built on FTE cool IF its tuned properly.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2012 | 01:10 AM
  #51  
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you guys are all dumb. i run triple radiators on my 240 I6. it's a bad bish. dual compound turbos and a supercharger off of an old mack truck. makes about 900hp on pump gas but even at optimal tunes it ran at 275* with dual radiators, i swear. added in a 3rd griffin nextel cup radiator and i got it to a more manageable 200-ish* after a 300 foot pass. so i'd assume a 460 would need at least 4-5 radiators to even think about being cool
 
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Old Jul 3, 2012 | 03:31 AM
  #52  
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Are you running these in series or parallel? I prefer a combination for the best cooling properties. I also like to snake my fuel line through the beer cooler for a little extra frostyness
 
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Old Jul 3, 2012 | 11:54 AM
  #53  
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What? So my fuel line plumbed through the radiator isn't a good thing? A buddy's cousins, uncles, best freinds dad said it was the best way to do it and I've been getting good results that way.

My motor was only at 190* when I cracked the block from a 275 shot of the frosty jug. Normal passes I get to about 200* after making a loop around to wash. Most of the heat I see if from slow running on limited power so I keep the fan off from the wash area back to my pit spot.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2012 | 05:46 PM
  #54  
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I am definately going to tune it up first, before I do anything else. My carb is running extremely rich, so maybe that has something to do with it, I'm going to see if the power valve is blown tonight, and maybe swap in some smaller jets. The timing was set by the engine builder, however I am going to borrow a timing light tonight and see where I'm at.

I have not always had this problem, it has just come up since I put the condenser on the front, the winch, and the weather has gotten so friggin hot.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2012 | 09:26 PM
  #55  
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So I took of my carb, nothing appeared wrong bit for kicks I swapped on the carb off my other 460, It's a Demon, don't remember the model though. And it fixed all my stumble problems but now I'm short a carburetor so Ill have to figure out what's wrong with my Holley...

The timing, It was way retarded when I took the vac advance off so I timed up to like 10-12 degrees or so, put my vac advanced back on and took it for a test run at night (about 90 degrees) and it ran hot and sounded like it was having detonation issues. So I'm not to sure about that, I did notice that it's hooked to full manifold vacuum but so is my other truck and doesn't give me the first problem even without a shroud. Thoughts?
 
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Old Jul 4, 2012 | 04:11 AM
  #56  
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10 or 12? There is a difference.

I use the ported vacuum for the vacuum advance and the manifold vacuum for the trans modulator.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2012 | 06:59 AM
  #57  
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what A/O said. ported vacuum for advance, manifold vacuum for trans.
if you use manifold vacuum for the advance you will always be at full advance.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2012 | 12:17 PM
  #58  
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I was using a timing light with out the advance feature so I could only get in the ball park with timing.

I am going to move the vac advance to a ported outlet, i think that may be the problem. It works like a champ on the other truck though. I've read we're that varies vehicle to vehicle.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2012 | 08:35 PM
  #59  
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I moved the vaccum advance to a ported source, if I time it even down to 8 degrees it
Sounds like the valves are
Rattling under load, maybe I need to up my octane.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2012 | 08:40 PM
  #60  
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Timing it with the vac line unhooked and plugged right?
 
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