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What cools your engine?

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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 12:00 PM
  #106  
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than it sounds like you have an airflow problem, not an engine problem.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 12:52 PM
  #107  
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I think maybe it's an airflow problem out of the engine bay as opposed to in, the fan really pulls good through the radiator.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 01:02 PM
  #108  
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I ran a turkey pan on my Stealth.


And Tom, I have never seen a pusher fan cool an engine better than a puller. IMO they are only good for tight engine bay clearance
 
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 01:05 PM
  #109  
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take the hood off, go for a ride and see if it overheats.
if it does, it is a problem with incoming air. if it don't you need to put a boatload of scallop cuts in the hood.



or just leave the hood off.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 02:13 PM
  #110  
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Kris. Add a pusher with existing fan. Works good with A/C rigs.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 03:30 PM
  #111  
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I may try a pusher fan, I'll have to take my grill out though... there isn't enough room up front. I may build a louver for the hood and see if I can vent out some of the excess heat more efficiently.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 04:29 PM
  #112  
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Well after reading this article, Aluminum vs Copper, I think some of my problem maybe an actual radiator design flaw. The rods of my core are not very close together which would mean I'm not getting as efficient heat transfer as I should. Modern radiator fins are more tightly packed than the old 70s style.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 09:19 PM
  #113  
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Meh.. Another curve ball, the radiator passed my leak test , but tonight I pulled it in the shop to insulate it a little better and I noticed at a cold startup in the shop there was a tinge of steam from the dricerside tailpipe. When I turned the motor off I listened to the dricerside head and could hear a slight boiling sound.. Im beginning to wonder if I have a slight head gasket leak.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 07:22 AM
  #114  
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If you have a compression tester pull the little valve out and put air to the cylinder with rad cap off. I do this to change valve seals without pulling the head.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 09:12 AM
  #115  
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I don't have one, but I'm sure I could get one. I think I may go ghetto and try a bottle of bars stop leak, I think the leak is slow enough to try it anyway.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 09:28 AM
  #116  
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Sounds like your reputable shop gave you a reputable anus reaming.

Also a prime example of why i will never trust a used engine based off the POs word
 
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 09:31 AM
  #117  
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I don't know, maybe nobody around here can build an engine, they are the most recommended of any shop around me, and i have seen many of their engines over the years. If it can go wrong it will when it comes to my luck with that particular truck.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 09:43 PM
  #118  
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Originally Posted by captain p4
Hold on a second Kris, I have to ask him something else before we confirm.


Did Karl build your motor?



If not, carry on.
Funny I never had a single overheating issue with that motor. Not my fault you want to run used plugs, wires, and anything else your cheap azz can throw on it. Not to mention the fact you can't start or time a motor worth crap. So take that bish!
 
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 10:44 PM
  #119  
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Originally Posted by kjett
Funny I never had a single overheating issue with that motor. Not my fault you want to run used plugs, wires, and anything else your cheap azz can throw on it. Not to mention the fact you can't start or time a motor worth crap. So take that bish!
never knew valeri was a jew name. you learn something new everyday
 
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Old Jul 15, 2012 | 08:09 AM
  #120  
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I bought all new plugs, your *******es cracked one off in the head and used one you found in Nick's shop, bish!! :flip
 
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