What cools your engine?
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 7,669
Likes: 2
If the vac advance is unhooked and plugged then its basically not there and ANY timing light will time initial timing PERFECTLY.
You can also put a very small(forget the size, but small) hex key inside the vacuum port hole of the vacuum advance pot to somewhat adjust it but it has been extremely rare in my experience to need to adjust this.
You can also put a very small(forget the size, but small) hex key inside the vacuum port hole of the vacuum advance pot to somewhat adjust it but it has been extremely rare in my experience to need to adjust this.
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 871
Likes: 1
From: New Albany, MS
Under no load it is smooth at 3500, under a load it is smooth but I think its pinging it makes a weird chattery sound, but it only makes the noise when the temp exceeds the 200 mark.
At night running down the road 82* outside. The motor runs 210-215. When it idles the temp goes up. Which I guess is just an airflow issue due to the blockages in front of the radiator. During the day it slowly creeps to 230* and will not cool back down unless I shut it off. It has redeveloped the perpetual exhaust leak on cylinder 3, and that extra heat in the engine bay probably isn't helping, but I wouldn't figure that to be the problem. Because all my fords have exhaust leaks it seems.
At night running down the road 82* outside. The motor runs 210-215. When it idles the temp goes up. Which I guess is just an airflow issue due to the blockages in front of the radiator. During the day it slowly creeps to 230* and will not cool back down unless I shut it off. It has redeveloped the perpetual exhaust leak on cylinder 3, and that extra heat in the engine bay probably isn't helping, but I wouldn't figure that to be the problem. Because all my fords have exhaust leaks it seems.
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 871
Likes: 1
From: New Albany, MS
Any timing light will read perfectly yes, but if the lines on the aftermarket balancer are spaced increments of two or so it's hard to get the timing down to an exact degree. Maybe I should get a sticker to lay out the degrees better, regardless though I've tried it ritarded and advanced around the 10* mark and while ritardingthe timing makes it run a little cooler it still gets too hot..
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 7,669
Likes: 2
Imo having the issue at idle and at highway speed tells me it is not the winch/ac condenser causing the trouble.
Get a silver sharpie or a whiteout pen and make your own marks in between the factory marks. A chatter at 8* would make me believe youve got something jacked up. If its a stock balancer could the inner ring have possibly spun in the outer at the rubber?
Get a silver sharpie or a whiteout pen and make your own marks in between the factory marks. A chatter at 8* would make me believe youve got something jacked up. If its a stock balancer could the inner ring have possibly spun in the outer at the rubber?
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 7,669
Likes: 2
Another stupid question...
Did you change intakes or pull you old one for any reason recently? If so did you make sure the ports in the head and intake line up with the gasket/valley pan....most specifically the water crossover port.
Did you change intakes or pull you old one for any reason recently? If so did you make sure the ports in the head and intake line up with the gasket/valley pan....most specifically the water crossover port.
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 871
Likes: 1
From: New Albany, MS
I did, BUT. When the valve got stuck like 3 miles into the breakin of the engine, (after cam breakin of course) I trailered the truck to the engine builders, and they warranteed the work which included pulling the head off and fixing the valve and all, which of course means they took the intake off. I would only be assuming to say that they did this correctly, but I really think they did because the shop is the most reputable around and we have a lot of good engine builders around here, it's kinda of a freak deal for them to do any warranty work,
I'm thinking the only reason the valve stuck is because they had to ream the holes
For the valve guides out bigger to a less common size, and maybe the guides
They put in were old or something, and that particular one was a little bit out of spec. ie too tight. Just speculation though.
I'm thinking the only reason the valve stuck is because they had to ream the holes
For the valve guides out bigger to a less common size, and maybe the guides
They put in were old or something, and that particular one was a little bit out of spec. ie too tight. Just speculation though.
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 871
Likes: 1
From: New Albany, MS
I missed your other post, it's a new balancer I bought when I had the motor built, I don't think it has slipped.
When I time it way low the motor just doesn't run right, which is to be expected, so I'm still in the diagnoses stage.
When I time it way low the motor just doesn't run right, which is to be expected, so I'm still in the diagnoses stage.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 7,669
Likes: 2
It would only make a difference if youre detonating on pump gas and if that is also occuring at 8* then youve got some fubarness with your stock rebuild
Regardless, i cannot see this being a problem that came up over night.
Regardless, i cannot see this being a problem that came up over night.
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 871
Likes: 1
From: New Albany, MS
Well i thought maybe where my fan shroud was broken was allowing air to leak through and not get sucked through the radiator, but I pulled it out and fixed the shroud and it runs the same temp.
What other than initial timing could make the motor overheat in every condition like idle revved up under a load going down the road. I don't think I have a blown head gasket, though there is the occasional bubble in the radiator when I'm refilling it with coolant after draining it. which I figure is just air in the system.
It's an issue thats starting to tick me off, kinda that 'fool me once' saying. I looked up a four core aluminum radiator from griffin but at bear 500$ I'm really do not want to shell out that kinda change for something that 'might' fix the problem.
Thoughts? Btw it was 75 tonight when it overheated tonight.
What other than initial timing could make the motor overheat in every condition like idle revved up under a load going down the road. I don't think I have a blown head gasket, though there is the occasional bubble in the radiator when I'm refilling it with coolant after draining it. which I figure is just air in the system.
It's an issue thats starting to tick me off, kinda that 'fool me once' saying. I looked up a four core aluminum radiator from griffin but at bear 500$ I'm really do not want to shell out that kinda change for something that 'might' fix the problem.
Thoughts? Btw it was 75 tonight when it overheated tonight.