I have a 1973 F-250 with 390 V8 engine. This is the carburetor on it right now. I need help identifying it.

Driver side:


Passenger side:


Throttle Lever (I think thats what its called):



Some identification indentations located on the driver side base:


Tube going from valve cover to base of carburetor:


Another picture of the identification marks on drivers side:



I am trying to diagnose a problem where my truck won't start if the engine is hot. Some have suggested it is a fuel problem and my choke might not be working properly. I don't see a choke, which was news to me Just got the truck a couple months ago, still getting acquainted with it. Any help is appreciated.

Andrew

 

UM, not sure the carb you have, but having the vacuum hose routed to the breather doesn't look right to me.

 

i think they used autolites back then. i was trying to find something out about the carb on my torino and stumbled across a site that showed different autolite carbs used between the late 60's and early 70's but didn't book mark it. if you call holley and talk to a tech they can probably tell you for sure. good luck.

 

It's an Autolite 2100 with a clockface code of 1.23 ... that equates to 351 CFM or 354 CFM depending on the source.

Correct. It doesn't have a choke. The stamp on the side is 8T .... that means "1968 Truck" so it's not OEM to your rig. Prolly had a manual choke cable.

Btw, the carb spring and linkages are cattywompous. I suggest ya rectify that.

EDIT: If yer rig is an automatic, it's missing the anti-stall "dashpot" which is prevents the carb from slamming shut when letting off the throttle.

 

Fred, it defiantly looks like a Fred

 

HIO Silver, thanks for your help, you are right. I looked up info on Autolite 2100 and it is a match. My truck is an automatic, where can I get more info on a anti-stall dashpot and where its missing from. Also, is a replacement the best way to fix linkages and springs.

Ninelivez, what is a Fred ?


Would the lack of a choke cable be a possible reason why I never can get the truck started when the engine has just been running? Is there a sign in the carburetor, like if the engine is warm, should the choke plate should be open or closed? I can check that next time it don't start and move it by hand and see if it starts right up.

 

Before 1973 they were Autolite 2100's '73-up they're Motorcraft 2100's.
The choke plate should be vertical (open) when the engine is warm.
You should deffinitely get a cable hooked up and the choke linkage straightened out so you can operate the choke properly.
Not starting when warm could be carb related but it could also be several other things.
I agree with PRIMERED 79 SHORT BED, the line that goes from the base of the carb to the breather doesn't look right. That line should go to a PCV (positive crankcase ventilation)valve that's in the valve cover. It looks like mid-way in the line is some kind of valve or restrictor. The way the PCV system is normaly routed is the line from the base of the carb goes to a PCV valve that is pressed into a rubber gromet in the passenger side valve cover. On the drivers side valve cover is the oil filler cap, this will have a short hose that connects it to the air filter housing. This allows the PCV system to pull fresh, filtered air into the engine crankcase to help evacuate blow-by gasses from the engine to help prevent sludge and acid build up.
Here are a couple of pictures to show how the system is routed from the factory, the engine is a 390 and the carb is a Holley 4bbl. but the basic set up is the same.

 

In pic #2 it shows your manual choke hold down clamp for the cable housing and the choke arm (may or may not have the locking screw for the internal cable)

Pic #4 shows the alignment holes for the " anti-stall dashpot"; it bolts down to the carb stud. (iirc)

I agree on the hose/pvc issue. And yes getting the correct carb for your truck wouldn't hurt. Especially if you found newer one from a JY; complete with choke and dashpot. I've seen many JY trucks with rebuilt carbs sitting on them.... Pick & pull's are cheap (aprox 25.00)

While you are there find the kick down linkage for your transmission.... Hooks to the lower hanging linkage arm shown in pic #3

Thanks for the pics to help identify your questions!

 

X2, you wouldn't believe how many times a poster writes "my truck won't start, what's wrong with it?" Pictures and as much info as possible in the first post is a BIG plus!

 

That is awesome... when I opened the thread I was thinking it looked like a Steve.

It is scary when you discover another person with your sense of humor.