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Hey there. Super new to all of this. But I wanted to give the carb a much needed cleaning/rebuild. Its leaking fuel in my driveway pretty bad and starting is pretty rough. I tried to do as much research on here as I could. Im thinking its a Motorcraft 2150 Carburetor, but saw some others that had a vacuum port on the front top. Mines does not. Any help would be greatly appreciated! The current motor is a 76 f-150 390.
I think I figure its a 2100 by the way the back has the swoop or indent instead of it being straight across (2150). The choke looks like its missing Pieces right? I probably get a new one of those too?
The choke usually has a black cover on it. Yours appear to be a manual choke. I'm not sure how that all plays out, but yes, to me it looks like it's at the very least missing that cover. I have a 2100 on my F-100. It's from a late 60's mustang and looks very similar to that one, but just going off memory I can't confirm for sure. I DO know that you can tell the CFM of your carb by going off that number on the right side of it by the throttle linkage. Yours says 1.21 which is the venturi size. Yours is a 351 CFM carb. I think mine has a 1.08 on it which makes it 287 CFM. If yours IS a 2100 and you rebuild it and get it in top notch shape it'll run really well, they're very simple carbs. It may not be a power house, but it'll run right. Mine has a 302 and although it doesn't have a lot of power my carb is a smooth operator. One pump before firing it when it's cold and it fires right up. The 2150 isn't too much different and is a good carb as well. Mine originally had that carb, but I was fighting a lot of vacuum leaks with my EGR plate, the 2150, and my intake, so I swapped them with the 289-non EGR intake and 2100 off that 60's mustang and it's been great ever since. Either way, I'm pretty sure both of those carbs use the same rebuild kit.
Yessir, based on those pictures you provided that is for sure a carburetor. /jk
Seriously 75BigBlock has it right. Great carbs. The carbkits themselves are mostly gaskets. The accelerator pump (inside the carb) and the needle and seat, and some other parts have issues with the rubber & gasoline exposure so be sure to replace/use everything that applies in the kit. The gaskets you could trace out and use a cereal box if you wanted.
The big thing mainly is to get everything clean. This requires complete disassembly to do that, a good carburetor cleaner solvent and shop air to blow everything out, all those tiny fuel passages and air bleeds. Just as important as the kit is to read up on the basic linkage setup & torque for the flange nuts (snug, not too tight!) and rough bench settings like float height and wet fuel height, idle mixture settings, jet size for your engine & elevation, power valve # etc. if you dig around there are free original carburetor manuals in .pdf to download, they have all the specs and adjustment and troubleshooting. What you'll find is usually everything is horked because previous owners didn't take the time to get things adjusted properly, mismatched parts, dirt, etc.
Yessir, based on those pictures you provided that is for sure a carburetor. /jk
Seriously 75BigBlock has it right. Great carbs. The carbkits themselves are mostly gaskets. The accelerator pump (inside the carb) and the needle and seat, and some other parts have issues with the rubber & gasoline exposure so be sure to replace/use everything that applies in the kit. The gaskets you could trace out and use a cereal box if you wanted.
The big thing mainly is to get everything clean. This requires complete disassembly to do that, a good carburetor cleaner solvent and shop air to blow everything out, all those tiny fuel passages and air bleeds. Just as important as the kit is to read up on the basic linkage setup & torque for the flange nuts (snug, not too tight!) and rough bench settings like float height and wet fuel height, idle mixture settings, jet size for your engine & elevation, power valve # etc. if you dig around there are free original carburetor manuals in .pdf to download, they have all the specs and adjustment and troubleshooting. What you'll find is usually everything is horked because previous owners didn't take the time to get things adjusted properly, mismatched parts, dirt, etc.
All jokes aside, thanks for the help. Like I said earlier, I am pretty new to all of this.
Once the truck is warmed up it seems to run great except for when you take of from a stop. You have to get the rpms up a little by pumping the gas before its good to go without stalling. Ill look into a pdf for the right setting like you had said.
The choke usually has a black cover on it. Yours appear to be a manual choke.
Manual choke would not have a 9A575 choke housing cover like the OP's carb has and this upper pic of the 2100 series 2V shows.
It appears that the automatic choke has been converted to a manual.
The thing is, the 2100 2V was used 1962/74, the 2150 2V was used 1975/79.
There is ONE kit for all 2100 series 2V's, FIVE different 1975/79 2150 carb kits.
Upper pic: 2100 series 2V, notice the choke pull-off diaphragm (9J549) located in the air horn, also present on the OP's carb. Some 2100's had this 1970/74.
Factory Manual choke would not have a 9A575 choke housing cover like the OP's carb
Most 2100's I've seen usually have a black cover, being that I've never seen a factory manual choke in person and those that I've seen that are manual have been automatic chokes converted with a screw going through the black cover rather than leaving it off and the linkage exposed like in the OP's picture.
A carb with factory style manual choke.
A carb with automatic choke converted to manual with black cover intact.
D4AZ-9A586-A (replaced C2AZ-9A586-B) .. 2100 series 2V Auto-Lite/Motorcraft Carburetor Kit (Motorcraft CT-499-D) / Available from Ford & auto parts stores.
That's the choke pull off. I'm not a carb expert, but I believe they're not used for manual chokes. That's why your carb, that's originally an automatic choke carb, has one. It's purpose is to keep the butterfly slightly open once the engine starts, so the automatic choke doesn't keep it closed all the way and kill it. On a carb that came with a manual choke, YOU would be the choke pull off essentially, by keeping it cracked open slightly before firing it up and then gradually opening the choke as the engine came up to temp. Other than getting a different carb, I'm not sure what you can do to "switch it back to manual choke".
I guess if you were set on converting THAT very carb, you might be able to swap out the throttle shaft and all the linkage from a carb with manual choke, but if you found all that you'd probably have the rest of the carb with the manual choke, so you could just swap the whole thing. I dunno, sir!
