Id love to try one of those resistance welders for spot welding (limited to stock spot weld duplications), but Im working on a budget and with three 56 Ford F series trucks all in pieces, the budget is stretched pretty thin. Good news is Im making progress. More good news is when I am attempting that 6 foot butt weld across the back of my cab for a big window conversion, I have lots I can do between tacks.

 

Unless you are planning an overlap joint/seam and can reach both sides at the same time within the reach of the clamp like electrodes a spot welder won't be much use. You can get the same effect appearance on an overlap seam by drilling a 1/4" hole in the outer panel at the weld location, then clamping the panels tightly and welding into and filling the hole. Sometimes called a rosette weld.

 

Yup, very little use for one where I could justify the cost. One area at the top of the rear window conversion I am going to be working on that is going to be hard to reach and unless I flip the cab over, upside down. I actually saw a resistance welder that each contact was on moveable cables. I guess you have to just guess at making sure the tips are aligned with each other. It would be pretty awesome if they made one that really worked and would allow a good resistance weld.

 

MIG welding is a short circuit welding the wire should be touching the surface when the trigger is pressed. I advocate trimming the balled wire end each time before a weld is made, tack or bead. (reason in the tutorial) if using mig pliers or needle nose to cut the wire, holding the pliers against the gas cup with the cutter side away will cut the ideal stick out each time. for doing the tack welds on sheet metal you shouldn't need that spacer tip crutch. Just place the wire against/on the seam, slide the wire across the seam feeling for the wire on the seam, support the gun with your free hand resting on the panel supporting it under where it bends so the gas cup is perfectly vertical to the surface and keep it in that exact position while you press the trigger for 1 -1.5 sec then lift and release the trigger in one quick move. (I strongly recommend welding sitting down whenever possible. I have a height adjustable drafting stool, taller than a desk chair, on casters I use at my welding bench or when doing any welding away from the bench.) Your tack should be flattish about 1/4" in diameter, perfectly centered on the seam with a full penetration bubble on the back side. If smaller than 1/4" hold for a 1/2 sec longer next time. If it is dome shaped bubble, and/or you can still see the seam line on the back side, your machine is set too cold. If it blew thru, your machine is set too hot, you did not clip the ball off the wire, you held the trigger too long or you had a gap between panels. If not centered, you did not feel for the seam with the wire end, one of you hands moved when you pulled the trigger.

Trust me, the Easy Grind wire is worth the investment! Use your other wire stock for utility welding, wrapping Xmas presents or making wire sculptures.

 

OK, I'm all over it. I'm going to go practice that tip on feeling the end the seam with the wire. If I don't end up with some significant improvements in my welding skills, its not cause you did not give 110%. Thanks Chuck!

 

OK, I will buy a small spool of .023 EZ wire and take it for a test drive. If it grinds like you say I'll get half my money back in abrasives consumables.

 

Sounds like it welds better too!

 

Could be. Most of my patches are small and it's hard to do much more than a series of tacks to keep the heat down. When I do have a long weld the grinding is the time consuming part.

 

Thought I had previously subscribed, but back again for more good info!

 

DougofMontana, I think we have talked before but I dont remember what part of Montana you are from. Im in Whitefish. You?

 

Outlaw... Ennis down here (under seven inches of snow (and counting))

 

Is the easy grind still er70s3 or 6? I can't see it being softer and easier to grind and be the same make up.

 

The Easy Grind is a proprietary alloy that doesn't match any standard welding alloy composition/designation, it is not the same as anyone else's wire.
Fatfenders, Sorry the small spools of 0.023 Easy Grind wire is no longer available, you'll have to buy an 11# (8") spool. Yes you will save on grinding consumables and over heating warpage, as well as inadvertent thinning the surrounding softer parent metal, and bondo. The EG can be metal finished to invisible if you are so inclined. I first learned of the EG wire from Ron Covel, it is what he uses.

 

Patch welding with 0.023 EG wire using tack method, second pass. Note low profile of tacks:



Rear of same patch. Note full penetration of each tack:

 

Oh man, bummer. We have a little on top of the mountain, but none in the valley.