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100+ cc DB2...???

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Old May 18, 2012 | 11:04 AM
  #106  
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Originally Posted by 88 Ford IDI
I thought it was the C-ring design that wasn't good for a DD? Ron told me they weren't gonna be that design. Isn't it going to be like the design you and I have spoke about before?
neither one is *good* for a DD. C-rings will just fail extra fast.... They will be exactly like their 6.0 non-machined fire ring kits, which are huge pieces of junk. Just search google for hypermax gasket reviews.

thats the exact reason I told Ron I wasn't interested in a set. Not to mention they're on the back burner anyways.
 
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Old May 18, 2012 | 11:23 AM
  #107  
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Got ya I'll look um up. I wonder how the ones on 7.3 PSD do (if they even have them)? I suppose I'll research that too...
 
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Old May 18, 2012 | 01:57 PM
  #108  
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my point is that hypermaxes gasket quality is crap, doesn't matter which application. Couple that with a fire ring design that isn't good for the heat cycles of daily driving, and its not going to last long. Much better things to spend $600 on than those gaskets.
 
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Old May 18, 2012 | 06:06 PM
  #109  
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Originally Posted by NMB2
This is my honest, unbiased, "expert" opinion on the hypermax gaskets.

do not buy them.

Hypermax has a bad track record with gaskets in other platforms, and the non-machined fire ring design they are putting together will not last in a daily driver.

There is nothing wrong with the felpro and VR gaskets currently offered, so unless you're trying to replicate a Max Lagod IDI, those gaskets are not necessary, and will be a complete PITA.
I thought you were one of the ones pushing to help get them made??
 
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Old May 18, 2012 | 11:35 PM
  #110  
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eh, just have a ring milled in the head or sleeve and around every port and put some annealed copper rings in there j/k
 
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Old May 19, 2012 | 06:28 PM
  #111  
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The problem is that its kind of a pain to machine it like that with the precups in the road. Precups are a pretty hard metal. Also with what you mentioned, what would be used for gaskets?
 
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Old May 19, 2012 | 08:16 PM
  #112  
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lol i was just joking.

o rings of course! just put em around every passage.
 
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Old May 19, 2012 | 10:22 PM
  #113  
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Oh ok. Lol
 
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Old May 21, 2012 | 05:12 AM
  #114  
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So racin, what are the odds of modifying this gear / advance unit for use with our engines? Doesnt seem that difficult, but i suppose if its not already pretty close in size it would be near impossible to make work. Just curious what you think from a machinist point of view. I plan to grab it with the pump to look at / play with, along with a spare DB2, gear and gear cover.

 
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Old May 21, 2012 | 05:43 PM
  #115  
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as long as the gear profile is the same, it should work. you would just have to make a drive plate for it
 
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Old May 21, 2012 | 11:54 PM
  #116  
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What is the difference bewteen that and the Db2 gear? Isnt the Db2 gear solid? Also how does that gear work that you posted to advance timing?
 
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Old May 21, 2012 | 11:57 PM
  #117  
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Also if that did work, I would be curious what it would do to a Db4 also...
 
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Old May 22, 2012 | 12:33 AM
  #118  
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Basically, instead of the timing advance being regulated via your foot, it works off of centrifigal force. As it spins faster the weights compress the springs and rotate the gear in relation to the pump, advancing the timing. Neither is really a very great setup up.. so i wonder if its even worth bothering with it. Obviously to get timing as ideal as possible there needs to be a way to sense engine rpm AND load, not one or the other as you get with the DB or the CAT. It only advances 8* anyway. Being typically i heavy truck engine or in a constant speed application, the CAT advance mechanism isnt bad, but i dont think would be much better than locked out on a DD type rig, and even on a hi-po setup it doesnt advance enough to really get anywhere. However, im sure it can be altered to get more timing out of it, and would help some, but again, is it worth it... They way it works might actually be benificial to the turbo spooling, yet at the same time help keep timing in line, to an extent. Seems like it would be very hard to dial in.

And turtle as far as i can remember our gears are not cut straight like the CAT, and i would have to be insanely optomistic to hope that they are the same diameter. However... cutting a new gear to house that contraption may not be so hard. But it would have to stay the same overall diameter inside, otherwise the force on the weights would not be the same and timing would advance slower / faster depending on whether its smaller or bigger, respectively.

I didnt get the pump, the guy raised his price again.. but i was able to look at it more and get some rough measurements. If were lucky it will actually fit w/out modification, but it would be close. Otherwise the intake has to be modified, mostly at the #2 cylinder.. MAYBE a little at the mouth. The thing is a behemoth.. always forget how big it is, roughly 11x11x9 LWH, not counting a giant solenoid on top that would make it 14 H, but i dont remember seeing it on most pumps, and there is nothing to get in the way of it anyway.

I think the only thing that might hold this pump back would be the built in lift pump, but as i understand it, it is mechanical as well so it should be able to be modified to flow more. Havent had alot of luck finding info on this engine in Hi-po applications other than boats, and it seems majority of them use a stock or mildly modified 3208TA pump.
 
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Old May 22, 2012 | 12:45 AM
  #119  
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Its kind of a neat idea. I think it would be worth looking into or something else along the same lines.
 
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Old May 22, 2012 | 03:51 PM
  #120  
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Mike have you found any info on what the built in lift pushes for pressure? I would be curious to know that cus I'm sure if the injection pump is modded to push more fuel more volume would more than likely be needed from the lift pump.

Also as far as the intake manifold goes, could it be modified so that the runners go up a lil higher so that they are out of the road? Kinda a bit more like a high rise manifold?
 
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