Aluminized vs. Stainless Exaust ???
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Elder User
Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Southern West Virginia
Aluminized vs. Stainless Exaust ???
Which do you guys think would be better, or does it matter? I'm looking at this one:
Riffraff Diesel: Diamond Eye 4" Turbo Back Exhaust
Any suggestions? I was told that the aluminized might not last as long as the stainless, which I'm sure is right, but does it really matter? Thanks.
Riffraff Diesel: Diamond Eye 4" Turbo Back Exhaust
Any suggestions? I was told that the aluminized might not last as long as the stainless, which I'm sure is right, but does it really matter? Thanks.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 11,132
Likes: 3
From: Southern West Virginia
I don't think you need to go with stainless. Look at the 15 year old exhaust that's on your truck now and it's not stainless, it's not even aluminized. I think the aluminized will be fine.
I wish I had a computer at work so I could play around on FTE............
I wish I had a computer at work so I could play around on FTE............
Thread Starter
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Elder User
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From: Southern West Virginia
At any rate, I can't imagine that it would hurt to do the aluminized. I thought that was a pretty good price. I've heard good things about the Diamond Eye. Well, If I sell my E4OD, I might just get it.
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Elder User
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From: Southern West Virginia
That's ok. I'm off in 4 minutes.
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From: Michigan
I went with the 4" stainless MBRP from riff raff. only because I never want to mess with it again. I live in michigan where they put salt on the road. mines got low miles and hopefully alot of years ahead of it. the factory exhaust is rusting away. installing the new one tomorrow. I'll be glad to lose that pinched off downpipe and plugged up cat.
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Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 11,132
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From: Southern West Virginia
This is what I did with my cat since we are required to have them here.....
I put a piece of 4" pipe over the ends and marked it with a sharpy marker and cut the ends out with a cutting wheel......
Then gutted the whole thing out and made it so 4" will slide right through it.......
I'm gonna split two short pieces of 4" pipe and put on each end and weld it all up.
When they look under the truck........it's on there!
I put a piece of 4" pipe over the ends and marked it with a sharpy marker and cut the ends out with a cutting wheel......
Then gutted the whole thing out and made it so 4" will slide right through it.......
I'm gonna split two short pieces of 4" pipe and put on each end and weld it all up.
When they look under the truck........it's on there!
Junior User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 62
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From: Lake Oswego, Or
The answer to this question depends on the grade of SST. An overwhelming percentage of automotive and Heavy Truck use 400 series SST (409 specifically). 400 Series SST is one of the cheapest SST made and in my opinion isn’t a real Stainless. It’s better/more resistant to corrosion than Al Steel but not much. Most of Heavy Truck use AL 409SST which is even better.
</O
Take yourself a magnet and stick it on a piece of SST and if it sticks it's most likely 400 series. One way (not the only way) to look at it is the higher the Carbon, lower the Chromium and Nickel content the more/easier/quicker it will corrode and the cheaper the SST.<O></O>
What I would recommend if you’re live in an area that has harsh winter conditions where salt and other corrosive chemicals are used and you want to save money I would buy a 409SST system and then find a company that does high quality Electro Polishing and Flash Chrome plating. Flash Chrome is not traditional Chrome but rather a thin layer of only Chromium applied to the surface. Chromium is the key to Corrosion protection. Electro Polishing helps clean and passivate the surface before the Chrome Flash plating is applied. Anytime you weld to or work a material like SST you should always passivate after you’re done to bring it back to its un-worked corrosive state. If you Buff SST then you should Passivate the area you buffed when you’re done (Google Passivating Stainless Steel). Hopefully this helps you decide what’s right for you. There is a lot more to the SST pro’s and con’s and do’s and don’ts but I didn’t see the need to get technical on a general question. <O
To provide a little background to support my comments. My previous place of Employment (Before the wife and I moved north because of family) I was the Sr. Exhaust Engineer and responsible for all (almost all) things Exhaust for Freightliner (12 years). As a result of EPA07 requirements the Heavy truck industry had a huge problem develop with regards to Exhaust Top Stacks. Due to the extreme heat and removal/loss of soot downstream of the DPF pipes began to rust and chrome top stacks blued/discolored right out of the plants. Some OEM’s tried vented stacks, some painted, and a few used cermet coatings that just flat didn’t work. The vented pipes probably performed the best upfront but in the end they also corrode and blue/discolor. I know this because I’ve tested every OEM vented pipe on the market. Developing a solution for this problem was my sole responsibility. I tried and failed a lot but each failure brought me closed to the solution not to mention it made my brain that much bigger.
The original supplier that we/Freightliner used is located in Port Huron, Michigan and I’d recommend them but there are others. They do a lot of work for the big three including Mercedes, Honda etc. I am not sure if I can put their name in this thread but I will say that I am not associated to them in any way other than my previous dealing through Freightliner. Auto Anodics is the company name. If the Mod’s remove the name send me a PM and I will send you the name OR cut and paste the following in Google “Port Huron industrial park chrome flashing” and you should find then on the top or there about.
<O</O
<O</O
I’ve been a member for a while and I’m an avid user of the many valuable posts
and thought it’s high time to start contributing. 
Dirk<O</O
</O
Take yourself a magnet and stick it on a piece of SST and if it sticks it's most likely 400 series. One way (not the only way) to look at it is the higher the Carbon, lower the Chromium and Nickel content the more/easier/quicker it will corrode and the cheaper the SST.<O
></O>What I would recommend if you’re live in an area that has harsh winter conditions where salt and other corrosive chemicals are used and you want to save money I would buy a 409SST system and then find a company that does high quality Electro Polishing and Flash Chrome plating. Flash Chrome is not traditional Chrome but rather a thin layer of only Chromium applied to the surface. Chromium is the key to Corrosion protection. Electro Polishing helps clean and passivate the surface before the Chrome Flash plating is applied. Anytime you weld to or work a material like SST you should always passivate after you’re done to bring it back to its un-worked corrosive state. If you Buff SST then you should Passivate the area you buffed when you’re done (Google Passivating Stainless Steel). Hopefully this helps you decide what’s right for you. There is a lot more to the SST pro’s and con’s and do’s and don’ts but I didn’t see the need to get technical on a general question. <O
To provide a little background to support my comments. My previous place of Employment (Before the wife and I moved north because of family) I was the Sr. Exhaust Engineer and responsible for all (almost all) things Exhaust for Freightliner (12 years). As a result of EPA07 requirements the Heavy truck industry had a huge problem develop with regards to Exhaust Top Stacks. Due to the extreme heat and removal/loss of soot downstream of the DPF pipes began to rust and chrome top stacks blued/discolored right out of the plants. Some OEM’s tried vented stacks, some painted, and a few used cermet coatings that just flat didn’t work. The vented pipes probably performed the best upfront but in the end they also corrode and blue/discolor. I know this because I’ve tested every OEM vented pipe on the market. Developing a solution for this problem was my sole responsibility. I tried and failed a lot but each failure brought me closed to the solution not to mention it made my brain that much bigger
. The original supplier that we/Freightliner used is located in Port Huron, Michigan and I’d recommend them but there are others. They do a lot of work for the big three including Mercedes, Honda etc. I am not sure if I can put their name in this thread but I will say that I am not associated to them in any way other than my previous dealing through Freightliner. Auto Anodics is the company name. If the Mod’s remove the name send me a PM and I will send you the name OR cut and paste the following in Google “Port Huron industrial park chrome flashing” and you should find then on the top or there about.
<O
</O<O
</OI’ve been a member for a while and I’m an avid user of the many valuable posts
and thought it’s high time to start contributing. Dirk<O
</O
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