Mark will beat you if he finds you saying this

I wont quote the man since i would butcher the wording but basically temperature under the vehcicle at the pan while moving are hotter than the fluid you are trying to cool down thus no gains to be had in that sense, and aluminum is not compatible with steeel so the bolts are going to corrode unless you isolate from the bolt head.

 

That looks like the B&M that O'Reilly Auto sells. I kind of agree that aluminum and steel bolts are typically not a good mix, on sailboats this is a very common problem as there is so much aluminum, namely the mast. In that pic on the O'Reilly Auto site it's not clear if those are aluminum washers or not. B&M has been around for years and tried and proven, so what's the skinny? I don't think I’m going to have the truck long enough for electrolysis to start forming...not that it's a reason to ignore the problem, I might have the truck 20 years from now.

@tjc transport ok, you have to weigh in on this Tom, although I see you put a like on @AuroraGirl 's post.

I can see how the extra fluid would slowly heat up the same as the rest, most of the heat is coming from the transmission itself.

I am thinking to just give it a service for the time being, make sure I prime the filter as was suggested, and that will probably keep it cool.

That reminds me, my temperature looks good, but there are 2 gauges in the Ford. One is a low/high, the other monitors the temp of the water, best I can tell.

My low/high is always low, but my temp is in the middle. I suspect the sensor to the block could be bad, do these Fords have a sensor in the block?

I see 2 different sensors, one looks like it goes in the block, and the other looks like it's for the radiator, I think it's good to replace both of those. Sensors always go bad, in my experience.

Alan

 

YOu.. have a radiator level sensor? Ive never heard of these trucks having one. You dont have electric fan right? whats the high/low light look like? normally the 2 sensors dealt with for obs trucks i one in block for the gauge on the dash and one in the thermostat housing for the computer, the computer one being visible and obvious the other being obscure 1 wire hidden away a bit, except on 302/351, its nearby but tucked back I think

 

The Hughes trans pan came with its own Allen bolts
Not sure what they are made of
The tail housing is aluminum too
You concerned about corrosion there too?
Gimme a break
You been working on Fords too long apparently
I got my Masters in '98. Where's yours?

 

No, I don't think so. What I said is there appreard to be a temp that goes to the block and a temp that goes to coolant.

Did you click on those links to O'Reilly Auto above?

Here's a pic of my filthy dash. You can see the 2 gauges on the left, which I'm pretty sure if my truck has, most all trucks have, because mine is stripped pretty much, no tilt wheel, no bells and whistles...Maybe I confused you with terminology I used. On my dash I believe it's the top one that tends to go to the low side.

On the O'Reilly Auto side they have what appears to be a single wire temp sensor and a 2 wire to the coolant (I figured the radiator).

This must go in the block with a ring/wire that gets a nut on top of it to secure: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...tch/mpi0/28331

This says it goes to the coolant: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...ensor/std0/tx6

The only other sensor they have for my truck is the multi-switch on the column. Mine is fine.

 

Both temp sensors are in contact with coolant, just in different places.

 

considering the transmission case is aluminum, no.

a steel pan with bolts OEM Provided and a sea that almost entirely keeps the steel from touching the aluminum. so only the threads engaged into it are touching, which should have threadlocker anyway.
I cautioned corrosion because 1) aftermarket coatings anad fasteners typically are weaker, 2) there is little gain in having the pan per mark (engineer) 3) the 4r100 pan gives you a drain bolt it is cheaper and it is also extra capacity.

I was born in 98.

 

my take on the oversize trans pan is i run what ford put on it.
they have some pretty smart engineers that usually figure things out well before they ever go into production...like Mark.
and if they do find an issue after production starts, they tend to put out a recall to remedy the issue it as soon as they can.
in 55 years driving i have never had an issue with automatic trans failure because i keep up on fluid and filter service.
and i have only bought 6 new trucks between 1986 and. all other vehicles i have ever bought have been used.

 

Most manufacturers attempt to make things right the first time. They have goals to meet and we do not know all those goals they must meet. There is usually a financial goal in there somewhere.

Without a doubt, the first few years the E4OD was a mess. When I rebuilt mine, I looked at all the updates and there are several. Many of them you kind of wonder, what were they thinking? But, they eventually fixed most of their comebacks. I don't believe that Ford [or anyone else] makes a perfect product that does not need improving. I do know some aftermarket companies sell snake oil, but not all of them.

When it comes to steel bolts on aluminum, obvious you have not looked under the hood of most cars. They are everywhere and although on paper, they may have an issue, they're everywhere.

 

With nice, expensive, durable long lasting coatings and thery are intended to typically go in one time (body bolts) but engine ones yeah I know but those are coated too.

 

i am convinced the engineers do a really really good job of designing the best product they can.
the manufacturer gets the plans and a bean counter says lets delete this, make this smaller, change the routing of this...ect.ect.ect.... we can save $4 per unit.
than when things turn to the excrement from the south side of a northbound facing bull, management blames the engineers instead of the bean counters that made the changes.

 

A good example of something that likely isnt done in bad faith but becomes clear over time is stuff you cant really anticipate as easily esp when a manufacturer only has a captive fleet thats at most a year or 2 old etc.

That example is bumper brackets. OBS trucks like to seem to have sagging bumpers. They didnt sag new obviously, but Im guessing its more of a mileage +age + incidental or continuous use by the customer that shows its head with age. My truck is older than I am, and the front bumper to my knowledge hasnt been used for a step because my gpa wasnt that mobile and idk what they would be stepping up for anyway. My rear has since its a step bumper. Both sag, front more than rear, but after research its apparently very common to have that. Easy fix but i doubt that was a bean counter more as "does this meet safety regs, and is this a solidly mounted bumper, and does this rear bumper hold a trailer at the stated safe pulling weights" and that just happened to be insufficient over time

 

So, this begs a question.

If having more ATF in the trans only get all of it the same temp, why would they use a larger pan for the 4WD ?

That part doesn't seem to make sense. Seems the smaller pan is preferable in that regard, if we're just talking about how hot the fluid gets.

Given I have the original pan, I think I will just use it and prime the filter as AuroraGirl stated above. '98, heh? Damn I'm feeling old...but I'm not the only elder in this thread.

 

There is clearance for the pan, and more fluid is not a bad thing. If I didnt have a 2wd I would run a 4r100 pan, but since it would be the lowest hanging thing in my truck, i dont lol.