Hmmm...that could be the problem...I remember putting some T20 screws in, but don't think that had anything to do with the cable. Called Ford Parts
yesterday and they said they could get the cable from Sacramento, but it's $112. It's raining today so I'm in a holding pattern. Yard will be muddy,
so working on the Ford is probably out unless I want to create a mess...and haven't loaded anything in the Toyota, so may not be going to lake until
tomorrow. I will check for screws when I get back to the yard, first thing.

 

Ok, revisiting this saga...I spotted a place in San Martin, CA (about 30 miles from my house, 8 miles from the truck), $75.
It included the fuel tank switch as well as 2 VDO gauges, one is a water temp and one is a tachometer. My '46 Chevy has
a spot on the dash for one of these round gauges. How would one go about connecting the tachometer to the Ford 7.5L 460ci?

Alan

 

@tjc transport Tom, hope you see this tag.

I was down at the truck today and have data to update with and see if you know how to solve this. The column shift cable (auto on column) allows me to push the rod in all the way, and it will start with the key. On the cable, there is a rod that extends out, and it has a ball type pivot on the end of the rod, and it attaches to a pin on the bottom of the column. I'm not clear how to route the cable and get it connected so that the column shifter will work properly. I can manually pull/push to allow me to start and/or shift and I tested driving the truck forward and backwards, so the trans linkage is good, I just need to figure out what holds the clip and/or where it clips so when the shifter is moved, is pushes that rod in/out to reflect the position on the dash.

Are you familiar with that? Or what about @manicmechanic007 are you familiar with this?

Alan

 

Yes, the end of that shift cable with the ball end
There is a bracket the cable clips into off to the drivers side
Should be a square groove with a hole for the tab on the cable
Slide the cable end into that square groove until the little clip engages the hole

 

Thanks, I think I understand what you're saying, but I was trying to route it from the door side
and it doesn't seem that there was a square groove with a hole for the table on the cable. That
is a part of the metal bracket for the dash? Which side of the steering column does the cable
route from?

Alan

 

@manicmechanic007 I found this video (the Internet is a danger), and I need to get down there on Friday and look over it again. I forgot to take
pictures and was first trying to connect it to the accelerator cable pin, and that seems to work,
so don't think there's anything that attaches there. In this video, it looks like it is the opposite
side, and he shows how he takes it out where the hole is located. My connector is square. I
need to look at it. It works fine if I push/pull the rod, all the way in lets me start with the
ignition, pulling it one notch at a time, works the trans as expected. See 1:30 where it looks
like it is routing from the passenger side. This is a different model, not sure if that would
make a difference. The gauges, yes, but I don't think the cable would be different.


The cab light stays on when the door is closed though, so not sure if something is shorting out
or not.

One thing to note. The dash I got was from an F-250 HD, and has a tach and water temp.

Not sure if they make a false front for it, but my dash doesn't have them and there isn't a
way to remove the cover AFAICT, so plan to leave the gauges there, and I coiled the wires
up and will leave them behind the dash.

I got the steering wheel on and lined up correctly, it was previously 90 degree to the left.
I haven't torqued down the steering wheel bolt yet.

 

Yes, that's the bracket he is removing the cable from at 1:30
He is using the screwdriver to push the tab in the little hole to be able to slide the cable out
That bracket is bolted to the column I believe
When you pull the column to pull the dash, that bracket comes with it, IIRR
I'd leave the gauges too, you might be able to make them work
Naa, the internet is wonderful, I use it almost daily to find out bolt sizes for instance on the next Mercedes I have to pull the blower motor out of
And code info, Google saves me some time sometimes
I use the librarys AllData weekly
So, sounds like you wre well on your way with it and I would check the shift tube / shaft bushings and all that on top of your column and then it should shift fine
All I see is broken shift tubes mostly and frayed cables causing it sometimes
If your cable moves freely, and it starts and works, you should be good to go reassembling it

 

Never really thought about where the cable comes from
I have replaced several, they just go through the hole in the floorboard / firewall and then right up to the bracket IIRR
Comes from the left side and the bracket is on the left side, cable attachment in the middle where the 30 torx screws come loose
Those 30 torx screws need to be checked for being loose where the lever meets the shift tube

 

@manicmechanic007 I just got back from the yard where my truck is. I can't figure that out for the life of it. In reading
your reply, I could be on the wrong side, that it might be on the left side. I agree, it seemed to be like that previously, but I did
check both sides to see if something was approximately the correct length. There was one standoff for a screw, not sure if I knocked
it off or broke it, but there is not screw in it. I am not sure how the connector would work with a screw though.

I took some pics, but it's hard to get any video as it's so close under the dash when I get my fat **** in there...this is
really stumping me...I seem very close to fixing this, but no cigar until the cable to fixed to something.

Alan


Could this be where it connects?

This is what the cable connector looks like.

length wise it looks like it could attach to that aluminum or the steel above.

I don't think this is the bracket, but it seems like the correct distance, not sure.

Accelerator

 

Wait a second...found another video. This shows a '94 going to the left side, this is my cable.

See 2:16 in the video. Not sure if I have that on the left side, but it must. I have that pin on my
cable connector, so that is definitely what I'm looking for. See pic below as attachment.

 

Holy flock, I just figured it out, the connector is NOT on the dash, but it is on the steering column itself.

I have one more check to do. Since the newer one routes from the right side with a bracket under the dash,
I need to make sure I have the correct column. I'm guessing I don't have that bracket on the rebuilt column,
but will find out tomorrow. I promised my wife I would go walking with her before it gets dark...

The 2nd pic below is the rebuilt column, it looks like it has it, but you can't see the end of the bracket. The
original had 3 of the same brackets on it. I think I'm good to go once I get down there.

 

Wonderful!
That is what I was trying to say
When you remove the column, you have to remove that cable from its bracket because the bracket comes out with the column
You should be all fixed up and shifting okay now, right?

 

I'm pretty sure I will be, but need to get down to the yard tomorrow where the truck is.

Even if I need to remove the column again, I can probably remove the 2 back nuts and loosen the front to allow the rear to drop.

I was so focused on looking for something on the dash that I didn't see it right in front of my face. My wife wouldn't be surprised
in the least...

I will hopefully wrap this up tomorrow. Pondering the next voyage on Memorial Day, this Monday.

Alan

 

@manicmechanic007 I got it back together, but have a couple minor things to fix.

The biggest problem is that the cab light now stays on, and I suspect it could be the door jamb button, I have seen them go bad
where they stay off and the light never comes on, but I suspect it's possible to have like I have and the light stays on. I can remove
the light so that it doesn't draw any power, but think O'Reilly's Auto might have one cheap.

I shamefully admit I had to drop the column no less than 3 times. The 1st time I mis-routed the cable behind the dash bracket, and
column wouldn't fit over the bolts. The 2nd time was back together, but I'm a frickin' dolt and hit the hazard light button putting the
shroud back on, and thought it was the turn signal...after I realized both signals were blinking. Anyway, mostly back together and it
seems the lights, turn signals and trans/shifter is all operational, I have a couple pieces of dash panel to put back on but it's working
for the most part.

The reason I missed that bracket is that it is tucked up high and covered by dash wiring, so from underneath you really can't see it.
This is why I had to drop the dash to begin with.


Thanks to @tjc transport @manicmechanic007 and @AuroraGirl for you patience, I'm certainly no mechanic...

 

you aint a mechanic YET. give it time, you will learn like we all did. only us old farts had to learn by trial and error, because the internet was not invented back then.