The silence from the salvage yard has been killing me, but I think I'm realizing that the place in Santa Maria is not going to happen.

I sent a request to a place not to far from me, I'm trying to see how much it would cost me to remove it from the truck myself. They
have a 1997 F-350 without air bag and without tilt.

That seems the only way to get a good price on one. Luckily, not too many tools are needed. I also want to make sure about the ignition
control module I have one that I took out, but I need to recheck both of them. I think I'm gonna drill this one open just to see the inside.

Alan - Captain of the column/ignition fubar project

 

I wanted to show the inside of the ignition control module, there's no magic in it, doesn't look like much smoke to let out of it...

Dirty contacts so I cleaned them them up on both sides of the contacts and put it back together. Used the old pencil eraser trick on the
contacts, but one side is springy...so resorted to T-9, which is harmless to electrical wiring. I didn't see any wires, only contacts.

 

that is not an engine control module......itis called an ignition switch..
an ECM is electronics.

 

AFAIK, that's the Ignition Control Module.

 

Maybe in foreign countries, but here it is called an ignition switch. If you were to go into a parts house or ford dealer and ask for an ignition control module, that is ot what you would get.

 

On the printout I got from Ford I believe it was called the ignition control switch, but I could be wrong. No worries, I disassembled and cleaned it up and this is the old one I suspected was bad, so I will try to swap this out.

Anyway, it's the white module under the column with the spring-back pin which starts it. I couldn't get the new one to fire the truck up.

If my truck is blowing these, there could be a wiring problem.

Alan

 

You drilled the rivets to get the switch apart
You should replace the ignition switch and NEVER take it apart and try to clean it or anything like that
It can start the truck on fire if there is a connection problem or a short circuit
have fun

 

Well, not sure what I should say to you...I've been taking $#!T apart since I was a toddler, sometimes I even get it back together.

This was one of those times. I don't think I would keep it in my truck for the long haul, not for a $15 part, but I was curious what
was inside and/or what could possibly get worn.

And no, I didn't drill the rivets out, I tried but needed to use an angle grinder and slice in through the side. The clips on the side
hold it together, as does the screw.

I'll let you know if my truck catches fire...

 

@manicmechanic007 Ok, good thing is I'm still here, no fires and I think I figured out what the problem could be.

I believe the white ignition module (or whatever it's proper name is) is not bad, IMO. I stopped by the yard, tried the old and new ignition, then thought
I would go over to the auto parts before they closed. Went back to the yard, put it on, and nothing. I was dumbfounded. Then I looked down and as I
slapped my forehead, I noticed the transmission is stuck in reverse, and I don't think it will get ignition if it's in reverse.

I can't move the front wheels or the back up, but think if I lift the rear wheels up with the forklift, I should be able to press the brake and put it in park.

Can anyone confirm that this is the case with Fords, that when it's in reverse it will not fire the starter??? This is my own fault...tomorrow I'll go down there
and try the forklift trick.

Alan

 

no automatic vehicle with a neutral safety switch connected will start if it is not in park or neutral. the shift indicator may not be properly adjusted, or the shift cable/linkage may not be properly adjusted.
try holding the key in start, and moving the shifter down to low one notch at a time to see if it will crank over.
make sure parking brake is applied and foot on brake when doing this though to keep truck from moving if it starts.

 

Correct
If it is in reverse it will not start
The transmission range sensor incorporates the neutral start and reverse lights etc.
That white box is the ignition switch
The pin slot in the switch connects to your key and cylinder through the actuator (the geared plastic bar or beam coming down to the switch)
You need not jack it up or hit the brakes to get it back into park or neutral
Once out of park, you can shift through the gears or put it back into park
Once back in park, that's when you would have to depress the brake to shift it out of park
Have fun
You have no actual ignition module on your 1997
The EDIS modules went out (were gone) in 1996 IIRR

 

Look guys, I'm not a mechanic and I have no idea. What I do know is that my F-SuperDuty overlapped by a year in '97 to using
the old style fenders, headlights, etc... When I google the part, I get these links:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/225958707276

They call it: "COLUMN IGNITION SWITCH CONTROL MODULE"
This is what I think I bought from Napa Auto:

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHKS6667

It says it's an "Ignition Starter Switch".

The original part number was F4DC-11572-AA

What I know is the truck fired up. I barely lifted the rear with my forklift
to get it in park, fired right up with the "Ignition Starter Switch" installed.

I'm no mechanic, but I don't let that stop me from taking something broken
apart. Isn't that a good opportunity to open and examine $#!T ??? I know my
wife would argue this point, but she has confidence I will get things back
together or fix it right. I wish I didn't do that. I did f#@$ up the column and
I need to fix that now...but I've been taking stuff apart for more than 60 years.

Sometimes I win and get it back together and working fine...others I end up
buying more parts that I broke. My hope is that Steering Column Services can
replace the gear, or help me do it, but I may be in for trading my column for
a rebuilt one if too many parts are needed.

The flatbed is moved to flat ground so this doesn't happen again while I sort
this out.

Alan

EDIT: I do appreciate all of your help, AuroraGirl, tjctransport, manicmechanic007, et al

 

One thing that is interesting, at least to me, that I'd like to point out in this thread.

I believe the way the column was designed was that the pin tracks with the slot/hole which the
starter pin fits in. In order to remove the key from the ignition, the ignition cylinder needs to be
turned and when it does, it pulls the pin on this "Ignition Starter Switch", and that in itself does
turn the engine off.

In my case the ignition is no longer tied in with the ignition, so at minimum the plastic gear will
need to be replaced in my column.

Strange redundancy, but it seems so...a horrible design in so many ways...but who am I to say...
but manicmechanic07 mentioned there's been cases of fires in these trucks...something to
ponder...

 

Somebody just added the word module to their switch listing
It was the older style that had the recall for starting fire
Yours is a better design
Still, usually just replace them and not mess with taking apart
Yours truck should be able to be fixed? (made to start with a key) if the actuator is good and the switch works

 

So help educate me. Was there an older model than mine? I think Steering Column Services said my column was used
on all F series plus up to around 2012 or so (EDIT: looking at Wikipedia I think it might be 1992-2008)...maybe that was
the end of the next gen (EDIT: no, they were like 9th, 10th and 11th gen) with the rounded fenders?

My truck has always been a red headed step child in the sense that it was held over for a year. This truck was not made in
Canada, it was made in Mexico. Some auto parts stores don't even list the F-SuperDuty.

Alan