I thought about that but ended up with the easy route using a spacer with the M8 bolt. I changed mine on the ground, tight squeeze under the EX. As for the challenging top bolt, I took off my passenger side tire and reached it that way just to get it started. As you mention, 6.7L starter is great improvement.

 

Schaeffer 9000 doesn't really offer anything above the other 5W40 oils when it comes to stiction, better starts, etc. At least not in the normal oil-change-interval ranges.

It does hold its viscosity better, so it resists the shearing of the high pressure oil system better than almost all of the other 5W40's. The issue here is that it isn't a benefit if you change the oil every 5000 miles.

That said, be thinking as to what you are going to do with the increased lead. It will happen (unless they changed the formula). It will creep up at first, but by the 3rd oil change, the increase will be undeniable.

The thing about oil analysis is that you need to remember that the entire oil system volume is around 18 quarts. With a 14 quart oil change, that means you have 4 quarts of the old oil left in - every time.

 

What is the concern with lead other than is being toxic?

 

Kills the cat.





Catalytic converter.

 

Isn't lead in or on bearings? Like main bearings, say...

 

It can be. I know Federal-Mogul had a developmental program to remove lead plating out of the bearing in 2001+, part of an initiative from Ford and the other companies. Any oil mist, especially with our trucks, would carry that into the combustion process by way of the CCV.

I dug this up: "Today the use of lead is under strict governmental regulations and rules. Lead is a toxic heavy metal affecting human heart, bones, kidneys, reproductive and nervous systems. In most countries (including the U.S.A.), automobile manufacturers are no longer allowed to use bearing materials containing lead. Bearings manufactured for the OE market must be lead-free."

I don't pay attention enough to know if that's 100% true.

 

Thanks Jack. I read in one of Mark's posts that he had done a Virgin Oil Analysis of Schaeffer 9000 and it had like 1 ppm lead, so if his UOAs were coming back with higher lead levels... Where would the lead be coming from? Besides it being harmful to our precious felines...

 

I don't believe all the bearings are truly lead free. From what I remember about the work F-M was doing (OE side) at the time they were working on aluminum and tin. We got the main and rod bearings, the cam bearings, and the turbo bearings.

When I was trying to figure out why my reman engine had weird sounds (almost like piston slap, now we know bearing misplacement) I was looking at my oil analysis. But lets start from the beginning.

My very first analysis.





Continuing on through 15k.





This sample through Blackstone, despite I wrote that the engine was replaced - note the unit mileage discrepancy. At this point, my warranty was almost up and I was telling the dealership something is not right. At that time, dealerships or the Ford mother ship ignored oil analysis. I was questioning if the reman had OE bearings or aftermarket bearings, because I knew of the work F-M was doing. Aftermarket still could have a high lead content, which diminished my argument.

The report also shows the higher mileage reports continued from the last page above.




At this point I'm bringing in Blackstone into the argument with Ford about this motor. Their comments reflect the discussion I am having with them about the high lead content. Again, not re-enforcing my stance with Ford, cutting me down at the knees. I'm left with a labor charge to have the dealership remove the engine and tear it down on my dime to see if there is an issue. Not really a dime, a minimum of $3,500. I didn't go for it; my thinking was if it was bad, they would give me another crap engine under warranty. I decided I'll run it out until it dies, but hopefully with enough momentum to go over the cliff, slow enough that I can jump out.




I showed this before. When I was keeping track of all the oil analysis for the 7.3L and 6.0L on TheDieselStop, I configured the spreadsheet to look at the wear material in parts per miles, rather than what Blackstone does (blue background). PPM give you a better analysis when people alter oil change intervals.




So there is lead in there. What the threshold for the cat converters is, I don't know. And now I'm PO'd again.

The entire 6.0L spreadsheet from the last posting I made of it years ago. Funny, I just had a message from one of the people at TDS today.

 

I also wondered if the oil cooler had lead in the brazing/soldering.

As an FYI - I only saw increased lead - essentially nothing else (ie no significant copper - maybe went from 1 to 3 ppm).

I would expect that the Blackstone folks would not have mentioned bearings if there weren't still some lead present.

 

i already killed mine…… no more meeeeow. In my county it just needs to be there. So mine is, just has a 4” pipe through it. No one would ever know looking at it. But it sure does sound better.

 

Finished install couple hours ago.

 

I finally got around to outfitting my truck so I can store tools in the bed instead of in the cab. Installed the Retrax roll top tonneau cover that's been sitting in my garage for two months. Built an organizer for the bed. And installed the WeatherTech floor mats that I got for Christmas.












BTW - I have a lightly used front set of grey WeatherTech mats that came out of my last 6.0. Please send me a PM if interested.

 

Did a headlight lense polish to try and restore them. No go, a couple rock hits have cracked the lenses. Any recommendations on replacement housings? I can’t afford to go for the projector upgrade because I just got the Bronco back from getting a new transmission and rear axel.

 

Well do you want to go with the cheap (sort of cheap) junk ones?
I know it hard but if you can find it in the budget some how I would go
with the ones Tony has been building. he used good parts and the light
output goes where you need it to go. Onto the road.

The low cost set of Ebay is running $66. to about $159. and they
are likely the really flimsy.

 

This is the company he points to in another thread for his light kits. I’m saving up some coin to convert mine. As most folks have pointed out in that thread, the quality is really good. Also it’s worth noting that the ones on EBay don’t come with bulbs, using the stock bulbs.