tried to figure it out today... but was kinda a no go... thought the oil rail popped off but its still firmly on there... put it back together but changed the valve cover gasket again since i had a spare one... dunno for sure if that was the source of the leak but my only guess... oil in the pan was far enough down that it wasnt on the dipstick anymore... since i had the tube out i dipped the crank case directly and still seemed to have 4" of oil in the bottom... not sure what that equates to quart wise in there... oil has a greenish tint to it.. but not sure if thats just an in between clean and dirty state for this thing or not... never checked it between changes... always looked clean when i put it in and black when i took it out lol... looked greenish to me... not really milky either like it was getting water in it...

gonna change the oil before i try to crank it over again since its so low.. but didnt have a new filter or enough oil to do a full change... dont really want to put fresh oil onto what looks like maybe contaminated oil... when i get that done ill see what happens when i put the computer on it...

 

Well the guy in the brown truck left two boxes for me today.

 

shiney.

 

Looks interesting Shawn........

 

Very 6.4L.

 

today was my first day off to play with the truck some... they had me scheduled to work 7 days straight...




first thing to do was to find oil... took me forever to find some... and then it was only in a 5 gal bucket $106 after taxes...




still getting fuel pressure...it was definitely cold this morning... thats the first time ive ever seen the EGT gauges read less than 32* Left bank. Turbo and right bank.. then the transmission temp... it still wouldnt crank even with the new oil in it.. when i peeked at the ipr its pegging at 84% so i know its trying.. and did get the low pressure guage to read so i know its doing its job... unfortunately i had to break out the computer...











only codes i could find in the truck...





cyl #7 is only 1% lower on the cranking test than the others.. so doesnt sound like its a compression issue unless i break out the actual compression tester to verify for sure... by time i found the cranking test the batteries were starting to get weak from all the cranking.. have the charger on it now to bring them back up...

think the low contribution code from 4 is coming from 3... because when i ran the buzz test 3 is not cycling... so looks like i need to replace another injector... had 2 go before when i had the engine apart... and 3 was ticking then.. now its not.. so thats happened recently... when i had to replace the 2 before it was #4 & 8..


I always hear about stitchin (or how ever its spelled) is that what happens with that?? it wont tick when cold?? because when ive had the engine running the pass side never showed any signs of it missing a cylinder on that side...

 

Oil on the outside of the engine would be my first concern then figure out the stiction or whatever might be wrong internally. Are your oil galley plugs still intact?

 

think the oil came from a bad valve cover gasket since the trail ran down over the exhaust manifold. But till i can get it to actually start again i wont know for sure where it came from.

 

I thought you said your oil level was so low it didn’t touch the dipstick?

 

was when i checked the other day. But now its full since i changed it. Trail ran down over the exhaust manifold on the driver side. So it came from the top side of the engine there. Why i originally suspected it to be the oil rail popping off and going out the valve cover gasket. but oil rail was still on firm when i checked it. Since i was in there anyways i changed the valve cover gasket since it leaked anyways.

But till i can get the engine to crank over and oil system pressurized i cant track anything on it. keep in mind mines an early build 03/04 engine. So log style. No dummy plugs or stand pipes.

 

I have the same engine. You need to figure out why you are so low on oil. Either your turbo seals are leaking and burning the oil or you have a ton of blow by.

 

its whatever caused it to **** out the top side of the driver side. Ive either lost or snapped alot of the factory valve cover bolts and had replaced them with regular bolts. May have had them to tight after the headgasket job or the seal was just bad to begin with. Why i changed the gasket again since i had the cover off anyways. Put more of the factory bolts i still had along the bottom and put the replacements at the top. Hopefully wont leak again. But till i can get it to actually start. I wont know for sure. Or be able to find where its actually coming from. Or even if both were related.

 

If I were your neighbor I’d be tearing into that truck.

 

lol if you was my neighbor id say have at it. I really dont have the time to mess with it like i used to. But need it up and running too. Cant really afford to take it anywhere either.

 

Found a puddle of coolant. Tightened up some clamps.




Thinking about getting rid of IPR coolant filter......err coolant filters all together.