Just wonder if you have thought or tried air leak test yet?

 

Yeah I've done a fair share from full restorations (mostly VWs) to complete bed side replacement on trucks to frame straightening. I try not to get into the painting anymore.

 

dont have the tools to do one.

 

It was the first time I heard you pair bodywork with customers.

 

making me a poor mans diagnostic tool. Just need one more piece. Then itll be time to have fun i guess.

 

That looks just like mine; still in the wrappers and all. It appears I'll be assembling mine too. Holders Diesel thinks my #5 contribution code is high pressure oil leak related.

Btw, I got my adapter from Summit. Couldn't find any record of the purchase but IIRC it was somewhere around $25.

 

i found it on amazon for $6. Just ordered it tonight.

 

finished doing this to my 05. Replaced bed, cab corners, Rockers and full paint., Now to decide on rims.

 

I've seen people mention "upgraded" battery cables, mine don't look too bad, and I can find the OEM replacement, but not an upgraded kit. I do plan on a much stronger alternator in the future. Just would like to know the why and where on them
I had 1 rear license plate lights out, so replaced them both with some I had laying around with little red LEDS facing backwards....the LED white lights are almost too bright on a white license plate all I see is alot of glare. But the goofy red lights are cool LOL

 

Up in the Tech Section:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ry-life-2.html

 

Adding some air bags and a new control arm to my rig before I get it realigned because I had to fix the whole steering and front end suspension. I swear everything happens in 3s and after 3 years it’s almost completely rebuilt haha

 

Got the last piece to make me an air leak tool. To late in the day to try today. So hopefully next week i can try on my days off.

 

My truck originated with the states of Minnesota and Ohio. It appears it was use as a plow truck with a salt spreader in the bed. Consequently, the undercarriage is rusting, and I had to fix it before it was too late. I reinforced a garage rafter, cut the bed bolt heads off with an angle grinder and lifted the bed off the truck with chains attached to the corner tiedowns and a come-along. Spent about 40 hours removing the rust from the rear frame and bottom of the bed with power wire brushes and a needle scaler. After using the scaler, it is the only tool I will use now. Considerably less dust and can get in those small areas even next to lines. Also, the wire brushes do not touch the scale at all. Sprayed 2 coats of Evapo-Rust (note: sprayed entire undercarriage with Evapo-Rust 10 months before I decided to do all this. It may have helped loosen up the rust?), Rustoleum Professional Rusty Metal Primer and Protective Enamel allowing a day drying time between coats (2 weeks from bed off to bed on). I considered building a wooden bed (saw a nice one on YouTube. Note: wife thought it would make the truck look too hillbillyish, ) but decided to try fixing what I had (I have a bed liner that may help distribute the loading a bit, or I can lay in rough cut 2 bys). If it doesn’t work, I can always build the wooden bed, buy a used one, or keep patchin.

For the bed repairs I sawed rough cut oak and inserted them inside the crossmembers after painting them with a couple coats of primer. I could do 4 foot inserts in the middle but had to go to 2 foot ones in front next to the cab. Next, I folded old ductwork metal over the oak ends where the crossmembers had rusted out and secured them with fiberglass mat and resin (haven’t got a welder and the bed bolts will help keep them in place). I used two rough cut 2x8’s with a C clamp to hold the ends of the metal and made 90 degree bends by folding and using a hammer. I also covered all rust holes on the bottom of the bed with fiberglass mat and resin, even the big ones in front. If need be, I hope I can knock out the middle inserts and install new ones, just have to remove the bedbolts. I can also add additional oak crossmembers between the original ones if I want. When the fiberglass was dry, I drilled the bolt holes and set the bed back on the truck.

I removed rust and scale with the needle scaler, primed and mimicked the fiberglass mat and resin locations on top of the bed once it was back on the truck and finished with another primer coat and two coats of protective enamel. The bed feels great! When I shake it, the whole truck moves, not just the bed. I need to test it with a full load (maybe sawmill slabs full to brim), but I feel it will do just fine.

I’m currently working on the rest of the truck from underneath. Will probably brush most of the Evapo-Rust and paint instead of spraying, due to cramped conditions. Needle scaler is working great around all the brake/fuel/electrical lines. Im almost done with the scalin and first primer coat, but have suspended work till spring. Needle scaler has held up very good. Still have original needles, just oiled it alot everyday.

Prior to all this I reiforced my rocker panels, redid the rear cab corners and repaired the bottom of the doors with fiberglass and matting. Happy I had the time to do all this, looks like I did it before it was too late.

I created an album under my profile. Need to click most resent to get the pictures in order. Default seems to shuffle them.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/g/album/22134343/1/recent

For the bean counters pre-Biden (so far):

· Angle grinder with blades $25
· Needle scaler 43 (please note Biden TAX in following link)
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0895THT...roduct_details
· Knot wire cup brush 17
· Evapo-Rust 8
· Rustoleum Professional Primer 29
· Acetone 9
· Rustoleum Professional Enamel 29
· 3M mask cartridges, etc. 20
· Nitrile Gloves 3
· High Temp Paint for muffler 10
· Fiberglass Resin 10
· Fiberglass Mat 5

Under the cab and motor, I estimate:

· Evapor-Rust 4
· Rustoleum Primer 30
· Rustoleum Enamel 30
· Cartridges, gloves, etc. 20

 

Good work, Doug!!

Did you glass in the corners since you don't have a welder?

Notes from the edge .......

Plus one on the needle scaler, it's mostly what I use. As you noted, if you are going to use a wire brush t has to be thick needles, and even that is questionable. I have no issue using an actual grinding wheel for the flatter areas and the rougher ScotchBrite wheels in the 4-1/2, but they do not last as long. The needle scaler is the first mode of attack.

EvapoRust does have a gel. After Rustoleum Primer, I'm starting to think about spray bed liner but haven't researched what others who have used it found.

Without a welder, I'd have no issue using Epoxy panel adhesive for the cross members, boxed channel, or other commercial present items that can be used instead of the stock style cross members; it would need to be shimmed to the frame, which is not a problem.

We installed 500 and 1,000lb cast blocks for the test weight at work. Along with our retention frame ('cause you don't want them flying in an accident), we would put in a layer of 3/4 ply, which would distribute the load and prevent the 4" square "feet" from damaging the bed floor. You could do that under a bed liner, but you would have to trim the 3/4" off the top of any liner.

Since I have a bed liner, I install a cushion between the liner and the bed. At work, we sometimes had to buy used pickups, and every time we pulled a liner, the floor had issues due to the liners rubbing away the paint and trapping water. My truck got sideswiped at nine years of service, so the body shop had to remove the bed to replace the side. They were surprised at the condition of the bed. I had to replace the liner after they were done.

Photos for the story.






















BTW, my New Jersey coast truck has more rust then your plow truck.

 

Needle scaler is very nice. For larger rust, I would use flat air chisel pointing at an angle.

Angle grinder with diamond cutting wheel can also remove good amount.