I prefer to run 16*-18* initial, no vacuum advance and have the mechanical advance all in by 2500-3000, but that's just me.

You sure the problem is not in the carb? 16* initial is not much, and shouldn't cause you any starting problems.

Are you giving it any throttle on a hot start?

 

I think the hot start problem was in the carb, was able to turn the idle screws in and back down the air speed. I've got the idle screws turned out 3/4 turn(four corner). 17 inches of vacuum at 900rpm idle, ported advance.

I need to change the title of this thread to 79 f250 build up.

I am looking to fit a 10.25 rear end in shortly, wanting to swap to disc aswell, what is a good kit/ combination of parts? I am thinking it be a good idea that snice I'm going to rebuild the entire brake system I'm gonna switch to DOT 5, Thoughts? Also, would it be worth it to rebuild my front calipers or buy new ones? Will these calipers fit on a Dana 60 if I wanna swap in the future? Plus I've heard that with four wheel disc brakes you don't need a proportional valve.

Seems to be the best I've found. Thoughts?

Dan Wheeler's Dana 60 / 3 link Build Thread - Page 38 - ClassicBroncos.com Forums

 

Questions? Complaints? Concerns?

Thoughts anyone?

Thanks

 

I can only answer part of your question lol. The 10.25 will bolt right in. But im thinkin you'll have too make the bracket for the disk brakes. And also if you have the dual front pistons yes they will fit on a dana 60.

 

You reckon I should bother with new calipers or will rebuilt suffice?

 

I never rebuilt any so im not sure on that. I bought dual calipers for my 78 from rock auto i think they were 80 something shipped too my door.

 

Don at FBO Systems recomended a QFT SS-680-VS for my truck. I am going to give it a try. Hope it workes out.

Was your initial carb problem a MFG problem?

Glad she's up and running good now.

 

IMHO, don't switch to DOT 5. Its a pain in the ***, and DOT 3 is better for cars/trucks. Its up to you, but cars have come into the shop wanting to switch back to DOT 3 from DOT 5 and it ain't cheap.

Quick question about your roller rockers, did you have to change out a lot of pushrods to achieve the proper geometry?

 

I plan on completely redoing the entire braking system, I know it'll cost more for the fluid, what are other negatives? If I should stay away from it let me know.

As for the valve train geometry, I kinda got lucky. Note to self, if every retrofitting/ building an engine, use adjustable rockers. I used pedestal mount rockers, and thus I had to cross my fingers when clicking the order button. Howards does not make a push rod for a retro fit roller cam in a 400. Com does(8.903"), they claim it works with their lifters. Talked to some people from howarrds and asked if their lifters were relativy the same height of Com's.... "I think so" or "probably". I figured it be a starting point. Also howards recomended only a 1/4 turn of preload... I was surprised, did the math, and determing how many thousands were in a 1/4 turn, forget now.


Obviously, when building an engine, and reworking head, each valve seat will respectively vary between each other, same goes for the pedestal that is cast in the head. These inconsistency is were adjustable rockers can equalize things out. Which can still be not perfect, but easier and closer than static rocker.

After installing a few of my new push-rods, I was geting 3/4 turn of preload, and a not so perfect wear pattern on the stem(really to do this all corectly, you sloud be ueing a "dummy" type lifter/adjustible pushrod). After paying aroud with my feeler gauges I fugured .030" shims would get me about as good as I was gonna get, moved the wear pattern up on the valve stem and preload right at 1/4 turn. To show the incositancey between valves, I had any where's between 5-10 degrees less that a 1/4 turn to almost a 1/2 turn on a couple. If I could do it over I would have gone adjustable.

And for the comp vs Howard lifter heights being (as I image) the same, I wounder how much of these different big name brands are manufacturing like breakfast cereal.

 

Oh... Wednesday I picked up a 92 10.25 dully rear end 72" wide! I know.. it's a short pinon, but I'm gonna swap gears any how. What do yall reckon would be a good locker for 1/3 driving 1/3 towing and 1/3 off roading. I wanna get something that offers 90 to 100 percent without making a lot of noise, don't care if the tires chirp on parking lot turns, but I don't want to feel the rear end push on a road corner. Detroit soft locker?

Never hear anything about putting disc on a dully, but I'm gonna just run single wheels. I'm thinking of using ruffstuff's bracket and mounting it on the wheel side of the flange since the flange is 1" farther away from the wms. May need a small spacer, seen the same thing for a srw, so as long as it doesn't get too big I should be aright. I might make a spacer out of plate steel, one unit would be stronger that three spacers. Come to think of it, I could just make the bracket myself, anyone got a print?

Anyone got a camra? I NEED to take pictures!!

 

whereabouts youins located in ga?

 

Waleska, Cherokee county

 

That's a little far from me.I'm in coastal GA. Truck looks good.hope to have mine 79 sittin on some new mudders soon myself

 

As for DOT 5, it has a higher boiling point, which is a plus and it doesn't absorb water like DOT 3 does (DOT 5 is hydrophobic aka "afraid of water" literally, and DOT 3 is hydroscopic, "absorbing water" literally). The down side of DOT 5 is that it absorbs air like DOT 3 absorbs water, so it's very hard to bleed with conventional methods.

The other thing is when bleeding it can take a toll on rubber, so anything rubber (m/c, combination valve, calipers, wheel cylinders) needs to be changed, and to be 100% you basically have to start from scratch. The two fluids don't mix either, think like gasoline and water happening in your brake system. If you're looking for an upgrade from DOT 3, switch to DOT 4 and you'll get some heat resistance in the fluid itself.

For your roller rockers, do you think the benefit of switching to adjustable makes sense when counting the cost of shims? Or is it more just convenience? Was your main problem the wear pattern on the valve tip or lifter preload?

For your wheel spacers, check out the spacers they use on stock chevys, the bolt pattern should match if you snag one from a 2500

 

With adjustable rockers, I could get spot on preload to every lifter, however, wear pattern could still vary depending on how accurate the head work is. To be honest, I don't know If it would be better to have spot on wear patterns or consistent preload. Shims were 8$, but I would of rather went ajustable. Either way though, head work needs to be good.

Spacers... I'm talking about in between the aftermarket disc brake brackets and the flange on the axle, to get the caliper ridding on the rotor. I may just have to wait untilI get rotors and calipers.