Wow, that's a kick in the junk. So if you were going to do it again what would you do different? Im building the same engine right now and I'm worried it might have the same thing happen to it.

 

In theory everything should have been fine, only how often do things stay on track with theory.
Where should I start looking for a roller cam. Should I use linked lifters or one of those spider deals? What are yall's opinions of grinds, I still want low end power. I believe rollers are better than a flat tappet just for that, they have steeper ramp for greater valve lift with the same duration of a flat lobe. I think Tim Meyer might have some sort of a kit, I'll look in to that.

 

Isn't that where you got the lifters? That failed? I just tried to google that name and there were no results; put cam in front and got 2 hits.

I'm not up to date with the performance ppl around but I would advise you to talk to either Comp-Cams or Crane Cams directly. Tell them what you are wanting and get their advice. Along with their proven products. Then buy them from them or Summit or Jeg's as a kit.

I have been using Crane cams/lifter kits for years without one single problem but Comp-Cams are quality and stand behind their products also.

Use quality, proven parts and have no regrets....

My $0.02
.

 

I would suggest giving Tim a call, see what he says.

Tim is one of the most renowned 400 gurus around today and will probably be best able to tell you what may have happened.

I wouldn't be going to a manufacturer who is going to be wanting your money.

 

Gave him a call earlier today, left a message. A lot of these grinds for the rollers I'm seeing are ungodly, it seems I can't find one small enough.

 

Does anyone make a split pattern roller?


http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...?csid=855&sb=2

This seems to fit the bill, I just wish it was a bit weaker on the intake. But maybe I don't even know what I'm talking about.

 

[COLOR=black][FONT=Verdana]My timing set does have three different line ups, 4 advanced straight up and 4 retard. What could I benefit from running it 4 degree advanced, say using the cam I mentioned earlier. I plan on a healthy set of headers and straight through exhaust, will I be alright not running a dual pattern cam?

 

This one seems to be right on the money.

HR- 216/325- 2S- 12 camshaft - Fd. 351C- 351M- 400 V8 70- 82

How do yall stand behind this company, what are your experiance with them?

 

To the OP, did you ever find out WHY the lifter failed? Did the metal in the lifter cause the failure or is it a result of he failure of the lifter? Is the lifter bore/bores damaged?

Small metallic particles in the oil are usually either bearing material or ring material. Ring material will stick to a magnet, bearing material will not. What is the condition of your cam? Crank? Pistons? Cylinder bores? Any or all of these problems can arise due to improper clearances, assembly, initial lubrication, or break in procedure.

A full autopsy will be nessecary to determine not only what failed, but why. Otherwise you will be throwing away good money after bad. I am concerned with your valvetrain geometry most of all. You need a dummy solid lifter that has the same height as the "pumped up" height of your hydraulics (shim up a hydro to make this), and an adjustable push rod. After your heads have beer machined, or you have installed aftermarket rockers, you need to do this even with a "stock" engine. Especially one with a non-adjustable rocker arm. You have too much money invested in parts to leave anything to chance.

Entire books have been written about building engines, and I am by no means an expert. I don't even build my own engines because I don't have all the precision tools nessecary to do a decent job of it. I have assembled some under the guidance of an expert, and have a genuine appreciation for what they do.

I wish you the best with your project, and hope you are able to work it out successfully!

 

I'm certainly not a cam guru. But it does look to be in the range you are looking for. Just be sure you get as much as you can in a complete kit and observe all recommendations. ie; Push-rods, guide plates, springs, ect. and any machining needed for pedestals. I don't remember if you had stock springs or upgraded. Be aware of coil bind at total lift.

You will still be using a "straight up" timing marks. Best for street I believe; ask Crane, they will have an answer based on testing plus customer feedback.

2x on Nitro-Rat's Clean clean clean and consider running a high micron oil filter to catch what you can't flush out of the oiling system.

Who else has experience with Crane Cams?

.

 

For the cam gurus....
What are the positives and negatives of the two cams I have mentioned? Which would be better for my situation? Would advancing them give me more bottom end? All thoughts apreiciated.


HR- 216/325- 2S- 12 camshaft - Fd. 351C- 351M- 400 V8 70- 82

http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...?csid=855&sb=2

 

It's been a while, I've been letting her sit for too long, didn't even want to touch it, made me sick. I reckon I'm gonna grab it by the horns, Just got the new bumpstick. Howard's grind, 270/278, .571/.577, 110 lsa. And 16 linked roller lifters to match! I may be able to run my previous springs, have to wait and find out after I take it apart and have them tested as to I don't have the literature on them. I reckon I'm gonna replace all the bearings and re-ring it as well, strip down the oil pump, jet wash the block again. This time it will go much quicker as I won't be delayed by the machine shop. I'm gonna tear into it as soon as I get my 302 buttoned up for my 68 Galaxie fastback. I'll be sure to take pictures.

 

Well, Well, I've missed the folks here at FTE! Almost one year ago I took on the notion to "freashen" up my weeeeeeak 79 400. A whole lot has been learned from then to now. It may have taken me two tries to get it but I finally did what I set out to do. I wish I would have documented the re-build up. But hopefully the end results will suffice(almost end).

To recap on where I left off....

Full of high hopes, I decided it time to pull "Silver Streak's" power plant, and make it worthy of some ford blue paint. She's a fairly clean 79 f250 ranger 4x4 trailer special. After hauling a trailer full of brush up a sight incline, using all of the skinny pedal to keep speed, I knew something had to be done. I researched a bunch tying to find ways of really waking up the sleeping giant 400. I figured it more of an accomplishment to build the stock motor as opposed to dropping in a 460(probably would been cheaper).

After finally getting every thing together, I successfully wiped #7's exhaust lobe within the first two hours of run time, after the cam breaking procedure. After all that hard work and money spent, I just lost gumption. Finally getting over my depression, roughly two months ago I said what is broke can always be fixed. Dissasembaly was a mess. Nearly an inch deep of file and sheared filled oil remained in the bottom of the pan after the oil was drained. Completely dissembled, my local machine shop agreed to re-cleanse every thing for me.(Big thanks goe's out to Don and Andy Key at D&A)

The culprit of my problems: One of the primary high speed air bleed was sized to that of the idle air bleeds, theoretically making that particular barrel insanely lean, but also screwing up the rest of the metering. Too much fuel leaked into the cylinders and thinned out the oil, this was seen in other wear areas, not just the cam. It felt good to know what it was and why my engine fell on it's face. A quick call to QFT fixed that.

New parts list:

-Howard's hydraulic roller cam in. 217@ .050", .571"/ ex. 225@.050" .576"
-Linked hydraulic roller lifters
-Hasting's moly coated to ring set
-King bearings
-Melling oil pump
-All Felpro gaskets throughout
-Comp dual valve springs matched to my cam (part#924)
-Positive valve seals
-Comp cams 8.903" Hardened push-rod, coupled with .030" shims gave me near perfect wear pattern and 1/4 reload(Howard's recommend)
-New factory replacement dampener, forget the brand
-NGK G series iridium plugs
-Flow-tech ceramic coated headers, 1.75" primaries, 3.0" collectors

Reused parts:

-KB2347 hyper pistons .040" over
-ARP main, rod and head bolts
-2.05" & 1.65" SS valves
-1.73 Scorpion pedestal mount roller rockers
-.010/.010 stock crank and rebuilt rods(balanced)
-Double roller timing set, Comp
-Flowkooler aluminum water pump
-MSD pro billet distributor
-Moroso 8.0mm wires
-Weiand Action plus 4v manifold
-Qft 650 annular mechanical secondary SS series+ 1" spacer


This go around I checked and recheck torques, clearances, lost sleep rechecking in my head. Everything went smooth, I find it better to work without deadlines, no rush, no hurry. Well, if you've made it this far reading(it's rainy and cold outside, thus no wrenching, that is why I am carrying on so long) I'm sure you would love to hear I decieded to fork out some extra cash and have the new beast take it's first few breaths on a dyno.

My assumptions were 380Hp and 460 torque. I was pleasantly a wee off on the torque #. With initial timing at 16 degrees and total at 32, coming in fully around 3500rpm, with an air fuel ratio of 13.46, this mighty beast pulled 500.4ftlbs @3100 rpm- corrected, and 383.2 hp @4950rpm.

Average torque, pulls were from 2500 to 5000, was a healthy 464.2
Average hp, right at 320.0 Pretty good for just 9.3 cr and factory open chamber heads.

Needless to say, I just couldn't stop smiling.Oh and no leaks this time.

Current status, engine back in truck, Just got finished notching the passenger frame a wee bit for the headers, driver side was a breeze. Whats left, pluming, wiring, and carb mounting, hoping to fire her up tomorrow. D&A took a video of the last pull, #13, when ever I get it I'll be sure to get it online, Ill also make a few of my own videos. Watch out North GA the Silver Streak is about to be busting bugs, and eardrums.

 

500 ftlbs at 3100 rpms NICE! Good too hear you got it back together and running good!

 

Got her fired up in the truck today, nothing beats open headers! A few more odds and ends and I'll be having her back on the roads.