Hello all,

I have a 1951 F1 Flathead V8 that was a column shifted 3 speed but I am finishing putting in a 1948 panel floor shifted 3 speed.

The problem I am running into is the rod attached to the clutch pedal with the clevis on it seems too long to connect to the piece that bolts to the transmission and ball socket to actuate the throw out bearing.

When I removed my 3 speed I didnt adjust the clevis or move it at all, I figured it would all just fall back into place.

I have adjusted the clevis to tighthen it to move it closer to the clutch pedal but I am all out of adjustment and the clevis still doesnt line up with the hole in the piece connected to the transmission and ball socket.

I dont want to cut, bend, or drill any new holes because this all worked properly with the other transmission installed.

I did install a new clutch but I dont think that would make much of a difference.

Is there any way the piece that bolts to the ball socket and transmission is different from a 48 to a 51 or different from a panel to a truck?

Please help!!!

 

There is a chance the fork is not on the release bearing correctly. I don't know if you can look thru the inspection hole on the bellhousing and verify?

 

I was really careful when I put it all together to make sure the clutch fork sat where it was supposed to sit on the throw out bearing hub. I know this because when I first slid the hub over the input shaft of the transmission I had to slide the rod that the fork is on to the side a little bit so the hub with sit flush with the clutch fork.

If I grab the clutch fork rod that the hub and fork ride on from outside of the transmission I can turn it forward a little bit, I am assuming this in the slack you should have so the clutch disengages all the way when you let off of the pedal.

If I cut about an inch off of the threaded rod from the clutch pedal to move the clevis backwards it should all work. I dont want to do that though because I dont think you should have to.

Any chances that piece that connects to the transmission and the ball socket were different over the years or from panel to truck?

 

1948/52; Same-o same-o / 1953/56: Not the same.

 

What about this:

The rod that sticks out of the side of the transmission that the clutch fork is connected to, it moves forward an inch or so. I am assuming that is the distance the throw out bearing is moving before it touches the clutch. Should I be able to put a wrench on that ear on the outside the transmission of clutch fork rod and move it by hand to engage/disengage the clutch or is the pressure required to do that more than I could exert?

I couldn t move it and I was wondering if that was my problem?

What was the difference between the 48-52 linkage vs the 53-56?

I am pretty sure the motor in my truck was a 1953, if the transmission was installed with that motor maybe the linkage I have is the wrong one. The previous owner put a different engine in it and said he thought it was a 1953.

Can anyone post a picture of the 2 different linkages so we can see the differences?

Thanks again!!!

 

I just looked at the linkages between the 48-52 and the 53-56 and they are completely different. There is no chance linkages got mixed up or switched.

I am stumped, like I said I didnt remove the clutch rod, didnt adjust the clevis, just pulled the transmission, put in a new clutch, and put it all back in. Now the clevis is about an inch too long to line up with the linkage and if I adjust the clevis all the way down as far as I can it is still too far away from the linkage.

 

You are about a week ahead of me. I'm putting a floor shifted '50 in my '52. You are plowing ground now that I will be looking at in about a week and I've had some of the same questions, especially the linkage. Got any pictures you can share?

 

Im not sure if I can post pictures on here or not. From what people have said and what I have seen in catalogs this should have been a direct swap with no hitches.

I am going to remove the inspection cov er and look to see if the throwout bearing hub and fork are connected properly

Also, I am going to adjust the clevis as far as I can and put everything together loosely. I am going to try and push the clutch pedal and if it works I will cut about an inch from the threaded clutch rod. If the clutch pedal doesnt move then I know I have a problem behind the bell housing.

 

Is it possible the threaded rod that the clevis is on that attaches to the clutch pedal came in different lengths from panel to truck or year to different year?

 

7RT-7521 .. Rod-Clutch Pedal to Release Arm = 1948/52 F1/F6 all I-6 & V8 / length not listed.

Carpenter has this rod listed in his 1948/56 truck repro parts catalog (page 21-2011 paper version), call and ask how long it is = 800-476-9653.

 

Seems like from your knowledge the arms are all the same. I will give them a call but I dont think this is my answer either.

Thanks!!!

 

"Knowledge" is taken from the 1948/56 Ford Truck Parts Catalog. There are other clutch rods listed for other years, but without knowing how long 7RT-7521 is, there's no pointing in listing them.

 

Guy from Dennis Carpenter measured one for me and said it is 5 inches

He also said his catalog does not mention if it fits the panel van or not

 

When you pull the trans to look at the fork, also check that the release bearing is fully seated.

To answer your other question, I think a crescent wrench on the dog of the clutch shaft should be able to at least partly compress the PP, but do it carefully! Lots of force there.

 

I really am hoping to not pull the trans back out, I am hoping I can see everything I need to through the inspection cover.

You still thinking the problem is in the fork/ bearing?